After almost two years of basking in positive restaurant media acclaim and a glowing review from our own Kay West, the team behind Noko announced recently that they planned to open a new venture right next door to their first restaurant. Noko owners Jon Murray, Wilson Brannock and Chef Dung “Junior” Vo shared the exclusive opening news with Bites contributor Margaret Littman only a month ago, and they have already swung open the doors of their new project Kase x Noko at 707 Porter Road.
Offering three seatings at the 14-seat chef's bar most nights at 5:30, 7 and 8:30 p.m., Kase is a whirlwind of nigiri, at least 10 courses of vinegared rice balls topped with precisely cut strips of exotic fish sourced from sustainable operations around Japan, Spain, Scotland and Alaska along with a toro hand roll, a remarkable A5 wagyu beef and foie gras offering, and a sweet bite of cake for dessert. In all, 14 courses are prepared right in front of lucky diners by two talented sushi swordsmen under the watchful eye of Vo.
Junior definitely runs the show, occasionally pitching in on a dish and wiping service plates meticulously clean between courses. He is an engaging host, explaining dishes and checking in on patrons continuously throughout the 75-minute salvo of delicious bites. But let me back up a minute.
The owners of Noko give the Scene an exclusive peek at their new omakase concept
Although the meal is definitely tightly scheduled, it behooves diners to arrive a little bit early to enjoy a pregame cocktail in what is billed as the smallest bar in the state, a four-chair affair with a customer-to-bartender ratio of 2 to 1. There are a few tables set up outside with plans to include those seats as an extension of the bar in warmer weather. The cocktail list is creative and playful, the perfect mood inducer for the meal to come. A list of wines and exotic and rare sakes is also available to accompany the nigiri service. I suggest taking advantage of the knowledgeable drinks staff to help course you through a few sake pairings that can stretch across courses.
Most remarkable about this experience is that the 14-course omakase service is only $75 per person, compared to other offerings in town at more than twice that price! How do they manage to pull this off? Well, partly due to what an old SNL skit explained as “volume.” The efficient model manages to feed a lot of people with only a few employees without sacrificing attentive service. And sure, the fish cuts aren’t quite as exact at other $200-plus omakase restaurants, and the slices are a bit thinner, but I found the fish to be of fine quality, and the presentation was beautiful and entertaining.
Particular highlights included a presentation of fatty tuna belly that was the culmination of a tour of toro from lean to fat. It was right up there with the best otoro I’ve ever tasted. The machi with a dab of charred shishito verde sauce was also excellent, as was a scallop with yuzu-pepper paste that took the palate on a quick journey from briny to bright to a creamy finish all in one Gobstopper of a bite. There are a few á la carte options available, and midway through the service diners are asked if they would like to add any of those or revisit a favorite off the prix-fixe menu for a small additional charge. Any additions are served between the 12th and 13th courses before the offerings make a turn to the sweet side. This is a very thoughtful service option that shows Murray, Bannock and Vo have put a lot of planning into this new venture. That’s not a surprise considering the heart and soul that they demonstrate next door at their flagship restaurant.
Nigiri at Kase X Noko
Not as successful was a slice of bonito, or red skipjack, that had an iron-y bloody flavor and was the color and consistency of roast beef. I admit I might have gone in with a bias from my memory of using bonito only to bait crab traps on vacation in Inlet Beach when I was growing up.Â
Still, 13/14 is an unheard-of batting average that would make you a first-ballot hall-of-famer! I feel that we experienced more flavor and fun per minute at Kase x Noko than any dining excursion in recent memory. I predict reservations will fill up fast now that they're open, but the option to be an early bird or a night owl offers some flexibility. For an entertaining date night that won’t completely break the bank, Kase x Noko is tough to beat!
