First Bite: Culture + Co.

There’s a mural, painted by Sarah Tate, on the wall at Culture + Co. in L&L Market that reads, “You had me at cheese.” Cheese is my love language, so, “it me,” as the memes say. Culture + Co., one of the newest occupants in the market space, had me as soon as I walked into 3820 Charlotte Ave.

Culture + Co. also had me immediately because the new restaurant, built in the open space of the market, features a retro-inspired marquee hanging above what its owners say is the only cheese conveyor belt in the United States.

Yes, a cheese conveyor belt.

“There is a cheese conveyer belt in London that focuses on British cheese that we had the pleasure of dining at. When we saw L&L for the first time everything clicked and we decided to put our twist on the concept,” explains Ashton Judy. Judy and her mother, Jacqueline Palladino, are the owners of the restaurant that opened in late November.

The mother-daughter team has a history in the kitchen. Palladino was a pastry chef in New York and Florida for more than 20 years before landing in Nashville, and Judy has worked in catering and bakeries around town. Judy’s father was also in the restaurant business.

“I have always felt like foodservice is in my blood," says Judy. "I grew up as my mom’s sous chef, at home and at work, and we always dreamt of having a little place together someday.”

Someday came along in 2020, and their space in the former restaurant supply warehouse is a lovely open kitchen, surrounded by the aforementioned square conveyor belt and stools for sitting and dining. Right now, due to COVID protocols, you won’t be sitting there, gabbing away about wine and cheese with the women and fellow diners. For the time being, all food is packaged to-go in lovely cardboard boxes with clear windows on top. When we get back to “normal” you’ll be able to dine in, and await your cheese’s arrival on the conveyor under a glass dome. A server then will lift the dome and also make suggestions on wine and other pairings. Online ordering and curbside pickup are available, too.

Currently, the menu is limited to charcuterie and cheese and dessert, as well as wines, although it doesn’t feel like much of a limit, as the lists are robust. 

I opted for the Noble Springs Nashville Hot Cheese, a goat chevré coated with spices and served with smoked honey and tiny pickles, and a cow’s milk bruleed brie, fired up toasty right in front of me. My orders came with fresh breadsticks and wood, not plastic, to-go cutlery. Each selection felt like a secret plated surprise, nothing was tossed in without forethought. (In return, I drove home more carefully than usual, not wanting to lose any of the apple cider caramel cultured butter that accompanied my brie.) Other cheeses were served with options such as tomatoes, tapenade or chocolate brownies or chocolate bark.

Palladino’s current favorite is Cloud Nine cheese from Yellow Springs Farm with the ginger cookie. “The cheese looks like a little snowball and tastes like a decadent bite of cheesecake,” Judy says.

Judy is partial to a Cayuga blue cheese from Lively Run Dairy with Marigold buffalo popcorn (another L+L tenant). “I’m obsessed with their popcorn and the pairing is so fun! The cheese is a blue made entirely from goat milk which you don’t see every day.”

Both vegan cheese and vegan charcuterie are available, and there are a few kids’ options, including an edible playdough (the conveyor belt will be pretty entertaining to kids, too). In January the duo plans to roll out a full menu with salads and sandwiches, again with pairings, and will accept limited reservations for in-person dining. The menu will change seasonally, and a cheese conveyor belt is going to be a winner year-round.