Back to Basics: Vietnamese Coffee

Phin filter in process

Before Christmas, I asked my friend

Tabitha

(who I consider quite the coffee expert) for some tips about getting a coffee-making contraption as a gift for my husband. We have a mini Mr. Coffee, which is fine when used with good coffee, but he wanted something better.

But of course I didn't want to spend hundreds of dollars on a fancy machine, and even if I did, we don’t have much space for something that’s used only on the weekends. Tabitha recommended a French press for ease of use. While researching which French press to purchase, though, I came across a post on chow.com's forum that suggested a Vietnamese coffee maker, the phin filter.

I read this post on INeedCoffee and realized that this just might be the way to go. A phin filter is all metal, and the speed of the drip (and strength of the coffee) is dependent on how tightly the filter is wound (as in, how tightly the coffee is packed). Though paper filters are very convenient and make clean-up easy, they filter out the oils from the coffee. Though some oils will make coffee bitter, if you use good coffee and water that is hot but not boiling (about 200F), the coffee will be bold and strong. It's not Maxwell House.

It’s important to note here, though, that most people who use a Vietnamese phin filter drink this very strong coffee with sweetened condensed milk (as do drinkers of Thai tea). The recommended amount of coffee and water not only takes about five minutes to finish dripping, it’s so thick you could paint with it. But it smells wonderful, and there’s no risk of the inevitable burnt coffee smell that comes from what's now-standard drip coffee makers. Also, the filter is cheap (between $5 and $10, depending on the size), so it's not an expensive experiment if you're looking to change your coffee regimen (and you don't have a heart problem). It's also very popular as a base for iced coffee.

The screw-down phin filter as well as Trung Nguyên coffee (the most popular brand in Vietnam) are both sold at Interasian Market and Deli on Nolensville Road. The larger (8-ounce) size filter is about $8 and will only fit over a coffee cup, not a standard coffee mug (it will drip down the sides). If you want to try the phin filter with your own beans or favorite coffee, just be sure to use a French press grind so you don’t get too many grounds in your cup. Step-by-step instructions for using a phin filter can be found here.

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