The Road Trip Issue: Birmingham

Just three hours south of Nashville, Birmingham, Ala., is a city with a storied past and a relaxing atmosphere — perfect for brainy history buffs, nature lovers and those who like to sink into a neighborhood and get to know what’s it’s really like to live there. There are ample opportunities to learn about the city’s role in the civil rights movement, as well as its rich industrial history. Birmingham was at one point the steel capital of the South, and it maintains its charming Southern gothic vibes to this day. 

Stay 

Birmingham has all the typical hotels and motels you’ll find on the outskirts of most cities. But if you’re looking for a quirkier and less predictable experience, stay at the Hassinger Daniels Mansion Bed and Breakfast in Highland Park. This Queen Anne-style house was built at the turn of the 20th century by an iron and steel investor, and it was restored in 2011. I’ll be honest: The mansion is not for everyone. Being a die-hard Star Trek fan, I reserved the Vulcan Room — named not for the pointy-eared alien but rather for the Roman god of fire and forge — and was “upgraded” to the Southern Belle Suite. The Southern Belle was, to my surprise, filled with no less than seven baby dolls and their neatly hung dresses, all huddled in the side bedroom like a conspiracy of lemurs. In the main bedroom, two headless mannequins wore antebellum dresses — the placard on the wall said one was funeral attire — and floating shelves showcased velvet hands draped with long satin gloves. A wedding gown hung in the closet. 

But the suite also included a large claw-foot tub, which was a huge relief to me after trekking around the city all day, and a cheerful breakfast with innkeeper Sheila Chaffin and a few fellow travelers staved off my appetite until afternoon. Blocks away, the Chaffins also own Cobb Lane Bed and Breakfast. I suspect it is also filled with random antiques — such as the taxidermy swan in the fireplace of Hassinger Daniels, or the misfit-looking rocking horse in the foyer. The Highland Park area is gorgeous, close to some of the best restaurants in the city, and the abundant tree canopy will soothe those Nashvillians who mourn our own disappearing one. If you’re the adventurous type, you can’t go wrong with these unusual bed-and-breakfast lodging options. 

If you’re looking for a more traditional but still unique experience, the Grand Bohemian Hotel in the tony neighborhood of Mountain Brook offers gorgeous rooms, plus a bar and restaurant on the roof. 

See 

A visit to the civil rights district should be a requirement for anyone taking a trip to Birmingham for the first time. Located in the city center, the 16th Street Baptist Church offers tours that teach visitors about the Rev. Fred Shuttlesworth, one of the leaders of the Birmingham movement, and the 1963 bombing that killed Addie Mae Collins, Cynthia Wesley, Denise McNair and Carole Robertson. Across the street, sculptures illuminate civil rights history at Kelly Ingram Park, the epicenter of the movement. The Birmingham Civil Rights Institute is the cornerstone of the city’s civil rights story, and it should not be missed.

In the Mountain Brook neighborhood, the Birmingham Botanical Gardens stretch across 67 acres — they’re the perfect location for some reflection and soothing vibes after visiting the civil rights district. Of note are the Japanese garden, the wildflower garden and the camellia garden. Even when the area is crowded, it’s so large that you can easily get away to a quiet spot. You’ll find the best photo op is at Vulcan Park and Museum, which is home to the 56-foot-tall iron statue of the aforementioned Roman god. Cast from 100,000 pounds of iron in 1904, the monument pays tribute to the city’s industrial history, and you can take the elevator or stairs up to the top. 

When I visit a city for the first time, I like to hang out in a small neighborhood to get a feel for what it’s like to live there. I did so in Avondale, a neighborhood east of downtown that’s home to a gorgeous park and a thriving creative community. Get coffee in the morning or a cocktail later on at Satellite, an outer-space-themed bar with vintage video games and several shelves of board games. It’s connected to Saturn, a music venue that hosts acts playing a variety of genres, from indie rock to punk, blues and salsa. Avondale has a bevy of restaurants and pubs to check out, and a great thrift store called Sozo Trading Co. 

If you really want to venture off the beaten path, locals recommend a place 20 miles outside town in the city of Bessemer called Gip’s Place. The blues venue is BYOB and known for its hospitality. Open only on Saturday nights, Gip’s charges a cover of just $10. For a rare art experience, you can find artist Joe Minter’s African Village in America, located in the southwest edge of the city. Minter is what many would call an “outsider” artist — someone self-taught whose work hasn’t been celebrated — though that term is going out of style for its classist implications. Minter’s large yard is packed full of sculptures made from found objects, paying tribute to African American history and Minter’s spirituality. When I went, Minter wasn’t home, but I could see plenty from the street that reminded me of work by artists like Lonnie Holley and Thornton Dial. Word is, if Minter’s home, he’ll happily give you a tour. Buy his book while you’re there to show your appreciation. 

Eat

The star of Birmingham’s fine-dining scene is James Beard Award-winning chef Frank Stitt, whose Highlands Bar & Grill, Chez Fonfon and Bottega Restaurant are all located in Highland Park. I ate at Bottega, an Italian fine-dining restaurant with the adjoining Bottega Café. Inside the historic Beaux-Arts building, the restaurant during my visit was bustling but not too crowded — definitely make reservations if you’re dining, but the cafe is first-come, first-served. Too hungry to withstand the 45-minute wait on Friday night, I returned for lunch on Saturday and had fried oysters and a pizza with ricotta, Meyer lemon, garlic, olive oil and parsley — I also requested arugula. The airy crust reminded me of focaccia, but much thinner. It was a lot of food, so I brought half of the pizza back to the inn with me for dinner. For dessert, I had a dreamy strawberry semifreddo, a luxurious elevated ice-cream cake that was worth the nap I needed afterward. 

For more casual fare, check out The Pizitz Food Hall downtown. Inside, you’ll find about a dozen food stalls and restaurants, featuring poke, bahn mi, biscuits and cheese and more, plus food from Ethiopia, Vietnam, Israel and Nepal. I ate Indian street food at Silver Kati, and 14 bucks got me a huge plate of tofu masala and a mango lassi. Parking in the garage is free. After a full day of sightseeing, go to The Garage, a dive bar in Highland Park that serves up tasty sandwiches, beer and cocktails. It’s cash-only, so be prepared.