Food and Drink — Writers’ Choices

BEST RESTAURANT: MARGOT CAFÉ AND BAR When Margot McCormack left F. Scott’s—the upscale Green Hills restaurant where she served as executive chef for five years—in February 2001, she quietly slipped into foreign territory: East Nashville. There, on one corner of the area’s rough-edged Five Points, she and business partner Jay Frein put their money, energy, hopes, dreams and faith into a dilapidated building and very transitional neighborhood. “I was looking to do my own thing,” she said at the time. “And we love it over here.” When Margot Café and Bar opened its doors four months later, the neighborhood loved them right back, though the locals were not exactly eager to share their good fortune with outsiders. But good news travels fast, even across such a seemingly insurmountable barrier as the Cumberland River, and soon enough West Nashvillians were acquainting themselves with the most direct route to 11th and Woodland. Which as it turns out, is closer to the beautiful regions of Provence and Tuscany than many would imagine. “I wanted food that matched the atmosphere here, which I think is pretty casual and simple. When I traveled to France and Italy, I was impressed by the simplicity of their food, by its affordability, and by the reliance on what is fresh and available that day.” And that is the essence of Margot, the chef and her restaurant. The short menu changes daily, according to what is fresh and available, so it is always new to even the most frequent of regulars. The food woos the eye and the palate with simple beauty and pure quality, while the restaurant wins hearts with its relaxed and generous warmth. —KAY WEST BEST NEIGHBORHOOD RESTAURANT: MIRROR On July 5, 2000, Colleen and Michael DeGregory—whose previous mailing address had been Miami, Fla.—opened the doors to Mirror, their Spain-via-South-Beach-flavored bar and restaurant at 2317 12th Ave. S. The location wasn’t exactly prime real estate back then; the convenience market across the street didn’t sell much milk but did a brisk business in numbers, while the mostly vacant strip center and car wash a couple blocks south were favorite haunts of drug buyers and dealers. Though their neighbor, Trim Salon, attracted a celebrity clientele by day, at night much of the eight-block length of commercially zoned properties was dark and deserted, so customers were seen safely to their cars. With more creativity, energy and verve than capital, the DeGregorys made an unwavering commitment to their new home, and in the process, Mirror emerged as the passionate heart and vibrant soul of what is now known as 12 South, one of the city’s hottest neighborhoods. The DeGregorys and their staff were dogged in their prodding of Metro during the grueling, multimillion-dollar, multiyear streetscape overhaul, steadfast in their support of each new business that took a chance on the street, and ebullient in their praise of every success. At Mirror, whatever part of town or country you come from, every night is homecoming night. —KAY WEST BEST AMERICAN ECLECTIC MENU: TAYST Just imagine what a dish called “TN Saltimbocca” or “Upside Down Shrimp Cheesecake” might taste like. Now imagine that it’s not only good, but remarkable. Those two items—the former, trout stuffed with cheddar and wrapped in prosciutto; the latter, shrimp, goat cheese, pepper relish and I don’t know, magic—are among the many standouts on this Hillsboro Village jewel’s fall menu. The restaurant’s website describes chef Jeremy Barlow’s fare as “playfully inventive American cuisine,” and that sense of play extends to even his most prosaically titled dishes. “Pork Chops & Apple Sauce (almost)” is actually a pork medallion stuffed with sausage and paired with a cored apple packed with a flavorful cream cheese concoction. In fact, one of tayst’s ongoing “problems” is return customers pleading for a favorite dish jettisoned in the seasonal menu rotation. But then there’s the veggie-friendly “Roasted Baby Pumpkin”—purple potato gnocchi in a striking presentation—to quell the distress. —SCOTT MANZLER BEST HOTEL RESTAURANT: CAPITOL GRILLE There are hotel restaurants—little more than glorified cafeterias with room service designed to fuel the hungry traveler—and then there are restaurants that happen to be located in hotels. Put Capitol Grille in the latter category; while the luxuriously appointed subterranean restaurant could easily stand on its own merits, the fact that it is the centerpiece of Tennessee’s only five diamond hotel makes it a generously financed staging ground for young chef Sean Brock and his dedicated kitchen staff. Classically trained, the Southern-born and -bred chef is devoutly respectful of his personal history, with the result being dishes that incorporate and spotlight the very best of local product. On the other hand, he is also a slightly fanatic disciple of culinary constructivism—pioneered by Spain’s Ferran Adrià—which breaks down foods to their molecular level and reconstructs them to capture the flavor in a wholly different form. As long as their wallets can support the trip, diners can take either route at the Capitol Grille, and have something to write home about, wherever that might be. —KAY WEST BEST MALL RESTAURANT: COPPER KETTLE Can good food happen in a bad mall? Bypass what is left of the food court in what is left of Bellevue Center and head straight to the Copper Kettle, which opened this spring in the corner location where Ruby Tuesday fed, faltered and failed. The original Kettle on Granny White Pike went up in flames last Christmas, and while looking for a place to use as a catering kitchen during reconstruction, the owners created a neighborhood restaurant in an area of town that is arguably bereft of either one. Bellevuans have embraced their Copper Kettle since the start—particularly the renowned Sunday brunch—and if co-owner/operators Lana Robb and Sean Begin intend to close it down once the Granny White store rises from the ashes, they’d better be prepared for a dining room sit-in. —KAY WEST BEST TAKEOUT: BAJA BURRITO The perfect answer to what to get when you don’t want to cook, but don’t want to go out and don’t want greasy fast food, either. Baja Burrito’s family-friendly Californian-Mexican fare amazingly never gets old—and believe me, after countless meals from this place, I can testify. The key lies in fresh ingredients, lots of flavor, just enough options on the menu and—best of all—the self-serve salsa bar. A word of warning, though: those little plastic takeout containers of salsa love to break open once you’ve put them in your bag. —JONATHAN MARX BEST TAKEOUT: BAJA BURRITO The perfect answer to what to get when you don’t want to cook, but don’t want to go out and don’t want greasy fast food, either. Baja Burrito’s family-friendly Californian-Mexican fare amazingly never gets old—and believe me, after countless meals from this place, I can testify. The key lies in fresh ingredients, lots of flavor, just enough options on the menu and—best of all—the self-serve salsa bar. A word of warning, though: those little plastic takeout containers of salsa love to break open once you’ve put them in your bag. —JONATHAN MARX BEST SOUTHERN COOKING: MARTHA STAMPS, MARTHA’S AT THE PLANTATION There’s more to Southern cooking than country ham, fried chicken, greens, biscuits and chess pie, though each is done to perfection in the lunchroom café of the Belle Meade Plantation. Martha Stamps is unwavering in her dedication to season, region and tradition; her menu takes diners on a state-by-state tour that adheres to the unique qualities and influences of each, taking no shortcuts to the ultimate destination, whether it be New Orleans, Charleston, Savannah, Atlanta or Nashville. —KAY WEST BEST MEAT-AND-THREE FOR A QUICK, QUIET BUSINESS LUNCH: HARPER’S Nashville has lots of great meat-and-three restaurants, but whether it’s long lines, cramped tables or the hum of crowds, there’s usually something that makes having a productive business meeting in a place that serves comfort eats a challenge. Amen, then, for Harper’s, where from spacious, quiet dining rooms to the restaurant’s genial, expeditious serving line, you can get in and out and get plenty of work done. Oh, and have a fabulous meal, as good a plate of soul food as any in town. —Bill Friskics-Warren BEST HOT DOGS: HOT DIGGITY DOG Corner hot dog stands are as ubiquitous to downtown Chicago as church steeples to Nashville. Hot Diggity Dog is the best of both worlds: hot dogs in the shadow of a church. Not just any church, but one of Nashville’s most beautiful and historic, the Holy Trinity Episcopal Church. And not just any hot dog, but Vienna-brand 100-percent beef, steamed and loaded ChiTown style: yellow mustard, finely diced raw onion, green Vienna relish shipped in from Chicago, chopped fresh tomato, sport peppers, a strip of dill pickle and celery seed. If the Windy City version doesn’t blow you away, there’s also NY, Boston, Texas and Nashville, or build your own. Fresh-cut fries are served in brown paper sacks, and the Italian beef sandwich wins Best in Show in the non-dog division. —KAY WEST BEST SMOKED WINGS: SLICK PIG BAR-B-Q, MURFREESBORO Nah, it’s not really worth the drive. Not for those fat little drumsticks that taste like they were plucked off a hickory tree. Not for the crispy skin, almost black from the smoker, or the juicy white flesh underneath. Certainly not for the coy wisp of wood smoke that starts to tickle your nostrils a block away down East Main Street. And above all, not if there’s a chance of you standing between me and the last dozen left in Rutherford County some weekend before the joint reopens on Tuesday. Stay home. It’s safer. Maybe Pizza Hut has ’em. —JIM RIDLEY CRUNKEST CATFISH SANDWICH: EAST SIDE FISH A number of places in East Nashville make great fish sandwiches, notably Bolton’s at 624 Main (ask for extra mustard). But for maybe the most cranked-up catfish sandwich in town, head for East Side Fish at 2617 Gallatin Road. East Side opened a little over two ago, and ever since then the “Kings of Fish” have been running spicy, piping-hot fish sandwiches out of their take-out window at a righteous clip. Jutting from two slices of white bread are two mammoth, fresh filets—maybe two pounds of fish—slathered in hot sauce and mustard and heaped with dill pickles and raw onion. East Side’s also supposed to have good sides, but I have yet to finish one of their “regular” sandwiches (the whiting is even better than the catfish), so I’ve yet to try a single one. The jams they crank while you wait are pretty crunk too. —BILL FRISKICS-WARREN

BEST SMOKED WINGS: SLICK PIG BAR-B-Q, MURFREESBORO Nah, it’s not really worth the drive. Not for those fat little drumsticks that taste like they were plucked off a hickory tree. Not for the crispy skin, almost black from the smoker, or the juicy white flesh underneath. Certainly not for the coy wisp of wood smoke that starts to tickle your nostrils a block away down East Main Street. And above all, not if there’s a chance of you standing between me and the last dozen left in Rutherford County some weekend before the joint reopens on Tuesday. Stay home. It’s safer. Maybe Pizza Hut has ’em. —JIM RIDLEY BEST CHEAP ON-THE-GO BREAKFAST: BONGO JAVA/PORTLAND BREW Grease is the word for the Egg McBongo, an irresistible gutbomb consisting of a cheesy, saucer-sized fried egg with crunchy edges that spill over the sides of an English muffin. They’re priced dangerously close to Krystals. You’ll shell out more for Portland Brew’s Salem, a Tabasco’ed-up scrambled egg with cheese on a bagel: the current exchange rate is roughly two-and-a-half Egg McBongos. But something about the early-morning splash of fire is addictive. It’s like aftershave, without the astringent aftertaste. Whichever breakfast you choose, though, prepare to use napkins as if you were sandbagging a levee. —JIM RIDLEY BEST EDIBLE REASON WHY I’M NOT MOVING ANY TIME SOON: THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY The Cheesecake Factory is my edible life partner. Sure, it might not be my all-time favorite place to eat, but with an overwhelming number of menu options, manageable prices and truly good food in large portions that lend themselves to leftovers, The Cheesecake Factory wins my heart every time. Blended fruit drinks like the Frozen Iced Mango will make even the worst day seem cheerful again, and basic items such as the hamburger and club sandwich can compete with any local diner. However, very few local diners also offer crab wontons, salmon rolls and a French country salad alongside their burgers. So what do you do when you want pizza, your husband wants seafood and the kids won’t eat anything that doesn’t have ketchup on it? Go to the Cheesecake Factory in the Green Hills mall. Everyone will come home happy. And full. So while Zola and Tin Angel are the restaurants I’d date, The Cheesecake Factory is the one I’d take home to Mom. —CLAIRE SUDDATH BEST RESTAURANT IN MURFREESBORO: FAR EAST MARKET Every year I read the winners in this category and weep briny tears of soy sauce. Sure, I can understand locals not picking up on the Far East—it’s only been at the same location for twenty-eight years, dishing out cafeteria-style eternals like cashew chicken and pepper steak from a serving station the size of a dishwasher. But of those years, I have spent perhaps the past 20 trying to figure out why their ramen noodles are more flavorful than anyone else’s, or why their roast pork comes out sweet and succulent while mine goes whee, whee, whee all the way home. I’ll admit I may be somewhat sentimental, but so what. Small, family-run Asian restaurants like this one colonized the Southeast in the years before fresh seafood; if it weren’t for taste pioneers like the Far East, we wouldn’t get to be food snobs and authenticity cops today. —JIM RIDLEY BEST IDEA FOR A FESTIVAL: HOT CHICKEN FESTIVAL On any given day, in any given neighborhood, some food is being celebrated in some fashion: pumpkins, pancakes, apples, strawberries, catfish, cornbread, tomatoes, beer, watermelon, wine, waffles, barbecue, chili, Moon Pies….You name it, we’ve named a day to honor it. The glaring omission is the one culinary treasure that is unique to Nashville: hot chicken. Setting aside long-running and sometimes cantankerous disputes over who was first, who stole whose recipe, whose is hottest and who does it best, hot chicken is one of this city’s great unifiers, beloved by blue-collar laborers and suited-up CEO’s, men and women, black and white, rich and poor, Republicans and Democrats. We aficionados all eat hot chicken the same way—with equal parts passion and care, so as not to get an errant speck of cayenne pepper in the eye. I hereby petition Mayor Bill Purcell—who for the record has called hot chicken one of the five things he cannot live without—to appoint a board charged with creating in 2006 the First Annual Hot Chicken Festival. —KAY WEST BEST PLACE TO SUCK & SLURP: CRESCENT CAFÉ & OYSTER BAR You say crawfish, I say crayfish, but however the word trips off your tongue, it takes skill and dedication to eat these Louisiana crustaceans au natural. At Crescent Café, they boil the little mudbugs up in some Cajun type spices, throw a mess of  ’em on a tray, deliver it to the table and thoughtfully wait to see if you know what the hell you are doing. If not, they’ll demonstrate: grab the head with one hand, the tail with the other, twist and pull the tail from the head, then suck the flavor out of the head. Peel the first couple of rings from the tail, pinch the opposite end, pull the meat out, dip it in some sauce and enjoy. Scott Crane is a purist when it comes to crawfish, so don’t come looking for them out of season; they are only available February through June. But you can slurp oysters all year  round, though the Gulf Coast’s little pearly orbs took a hit from Katrina. Still, a dozen on the half-shell and an ice-cold Abita beer will set you back less than $10, and les bon temps don’t come much cheaper than that. —KAY WEST FASTEST FAST FOOD: WENDY’S ON THOMPSON LANE Fast food is bad for you: that’s our official position. We never eat it more than, er, once a month, like any realistic nutritionist grudgingly allows. But when we want it, we want it so fast we don’t have time to ponder its negative dietary effects. And the folks at Wendy’s understand this, or so we believe, running its lunch crew with clock-like precision. On any given day at high noon, the line runs all the way out to Thompson Lane, and yet, we’ve gotten through a line of ten cars in less than four minutes, despite people ahead of us who have not only placed multiple orders, but even paid with a credit card. And the best part? The order is usually right. Beat that, McDonald’s. —TRACY MOORE BEST BREAKFAST: ATHENS FAMILY RESTAURANT It’s good that Melrose no longer has a Mrs. Winner’s store on both sides of Franklin Road. Especially since the defunct, southernmost link in that chicken chain is now occupied by Athens Family Restaurant, an authentic Greek diner that’s an oasis for Nashville breakfast-lovers. Along with the diner-perfect coffee, Athens’ specialties include eggs Benedict, lox-and-onion omelet and the best corned-beef hash this side of Times Square. —PAUL GRIFFITH BEST SWEET SPOT: SWEET 16TH When Ellen and Dan Einstein opened their scrumptious confectionery a couple years back, they gave East Nashville one of the things that residents spoke of longingly for decades—a first-rate bakery. As its name implies, the couple just bake sweets (East Nashville still needs its answer to Provence), and they’re all heavenly, as their lighter-than-air scone of that name promises. The scones truly are amazing, but so are the Danish, the lemon squares and the devilishly rich cupcakes. Ellen and Dan also bake cakes to order (226-8367), sell fabulous coffee and make yummy doggie treats, or so says my son’s Dalmatian. And their place, which is located at 311 N. 16th St., has a few tables and a counter for those who want to eat their goodies there. It radiates charm, just like its owners. —BILL FRISKICS-WARREN BEST RESTAURANT COMEBACK: LOVELESS CAFÉ There was a time not so long ago when taking out-of-towners to the Loveless was kind of a dreadful experience. Your visitors, with memories of that one great breakfast they had there a decade ago, just had to go back, and meanwhile, the best you could do was smile and mask your dismay at the thought of having to down a plateful of greasy fried chicken. But thanks to Tom Morales and crew, these days the place is positively rejuvenated, yet still possessed of all the charm that brought people out there to begin with. All the old favorites are on the menu, as good as they’ve ever been, maybe better, and a few thoughtful additions mean you can walk out of the restaurant without feeling so carbo-loaded that you can barely move. Of course, if you want to stock up on fuel for a bike ride down the Natchez Trace, that’s an option as well, thanks to the bottomless supply of Loveless’ world-famous biscuits. Too bad the drive out there along Highway 100 is dotted almost entirely with suburban sprawl. —JONATHAN MARX BEST KITCHEN CLEAN-UP: 12th & PORTER Take it from my kitchen confidential sources: you would have been safer dumpster diving than ordering a plate of food poisoning from the hazardous waste site that the kitchen of the old 12th & Porter had become. The only thing that likely saved diners from a trip to the emergency room was the prodigious amount of hooch consumed with the voodoo-ed pasta. When Jennifer Lee—who made her debut on the local restaurant scene at ChiTown on the Demonbreun corridor—signed the lease on the tenured Gulch landmark, she kept the name, but installed a Mexican menu and took a power washer to the kitchen. The pay-off was a score of 94 on their opening health department inspection. Now that’s voodoo. As God is my witness, I will never go hungry at 12th & Porter again. —KAY WEST BEST MOVE: JUDGE BEAN’S BAR-B-QUE TO THE GULCH Aubrey Bean is a big man. Aside from his girth, he cooks big, he talks big and he thinks big, growing his 2-year-old Judge Bean’s Bar-B-Que from a shack to nearly a compound. It was about then that many of his neighbors on Wedgewood and the surrounding blocks felt like he was getting a little too big for his britches and made no secret of the fact that they would be happy if he’d take his business elsewhere. Not one to hang his horns where he’s not wanted, the rabid UT (as in Austin, not Knoxville) fan packed up his smokers, his extensive collection of Texas memorabilia, and a couple of six packs for the ride, and moved kit and caboodle to the Gulch, settling into the corner building on 12th Avenue North last occupied by a fallen restaurant industry giant in his own time, Jody Faison. Not only is the Judge’s main courtroom three times its original size—and attracting three times the number of brisket lovers and Lone Star expatriates, but he is developing the 7,000-square-foot building next door into a Texas-sized dance hall, and the building beside that into Judge Bean’s Cantina. Size does matter. —KAY WEST BEST KITCHEN CLEAN-UP: 12th & PORTER Take it from my kitchen confidential sources: you would have been safer dumpster diving than ordering a plate of food poisoning from the hazardous waste site that the kitchen of the old 12th & Porter had become. The only thing that likely saved diners from a trip to the emergency room was the prodigious amount of hooch consumed with the voodoo-ed pasta. When Jennifer Lee—who made her debut on the local restaurant scene at ChiTown on the Demonbreun corridor—signed the lease on the tenured Gulch landmark, she kept the name, but installed a Mexican menu and took a power washer to the kitchen. The pay-off was a score of 94 on their opening health department inspection. Now that’s voodoo. As God is my witness, I will never go hungry at 12th & Porter again. —KAY WEST BEST APPROXIMATION OF A BUSTLING, MORE INTERNATIONALLY DIVERSE MAJOR-CITY RESTAURANT: RUSAN’S SUSHI AND SEAFOOD Maybe it’s the currently underdeveloped state of the surrounding Gulch, but walking into RuSan’s is like being teleported into another galaxy. No other restaurant in town packs as much artful exoticism and over-the-top urban futurism into so narrow a space. Even if there’s no anime on the TV screens, the sensory overload approaches the dizzyingly surreal vision of Howl’s Moving Castle or even the fine line between utopian and dystopian urban spaces in Blade Runner. RuSan’s overflows with neon, polished-metal surfaces, techno-noise and hyperactivity among servers and patrons alike. The menu, which morphs periodically like the characters in an animated fantasy, has more choices than can be tried in several lifetimes, and even mild curiosity to sample a few items can quickly take one far down the road of American excess. Though each sushi, sashimi and noodle dish holds true to a certain traditional purity of presentation, what’s on your plate can often explode with multicultural entropy, like the seven-colored rainbow roll, the protein bomb and the mozzarella tempura—all larger than life (or the space between two chopsticks), seeming to come out of no place on the map. —BILL LEVINE BEST NEW FAMILY-OWNED ETHNIC RESTAURANT: LA LUNA When you own your own restaurant—as Inci and Erhan Cengiz do—you spend precious little time at home. The Cengizes responded by turning La Luna into a charmingly homey restaurant; the bonus is that the Cengizes are natives of Turkey, so dishes are bounteous with the exotic flavors of their homeland. Because Turkey touches Greece on its northwestern tip, and borders Syria, Iraq and Iran on its southern and eastern sides, its cuisine is imbued with all of those marvelous influences and the base ingredients common to those regions—olive oil, olives, lemon, feta, yogurt, raisins, currants, pine nuts and honey flavor the generously portioned and family-friendly priced lamb, chicken, fish and vegetables. Inci is in the kitchen, Erhan runs the front of the house, and everyone who enters is greeted and treated like family. —KAY WEST BEST UPSCALE ETHNIC RESTAURANT: PARISA’S Nolensville Road is lined with tiny ethnic restaurants that span the globe. Typically they are small, modest in décor and casually—though thoughtfully—serviced. Which makes walking through the glass storefront door of Parisa’s, hidden away in a nondescript brick building, a rather startling, otherworldly experience. A gurgling fountain in the foyer precedes a couple of steps into the main room, where a vista of sensual elegance unfolds. Crystal chandeliers are suspended from high ceilings crossed by steel beams entwined with artificial grapevines that look real enough from the thick, ceramic-tiled floors; tables are draped with cotton linens, and set with china, silver, stemware and small vases of fresh flowers and greenery; lighting is low and flattering to all. The three semiprivate alcoves in the rear with lounging room for a dozen diners on rug-covered benches are a seductive lure for those who wish to immerse themselves in a whole-body dining experience. Tantalizing scents and flavors of Persian cuisine waft from the kitchen to the table, urging diners to let go and revel in worldly intoxication. —KAY WEST BEST INTERNATIONAL DESSERT OPTIONS: (TIE) ISTANBUL/BACK TO CUBA Nashville’s rapidly expanding lineup of international dining options offers diners great opportunities to feel like they’re in another country, if only for an hour or two. In particular, the coffee/dessert experience provides a great momentary escape into another culture. So next time you’re thinking Starbucks or Krispy Kreme, head instead to Istanbul Restaurant on Nolensville Road and order a seker pare, a syrupy cross between a donut and cookie, and wash it down with a thick, aromatic Turkish coffee. At Back to Cuba, the flan or arroz con leche—chased with a sweet, full-bodied cafe Cubano—will make you nostalgic for the streets of Havana, even if you’ve never been. —JACK SILVERMAN BEST PUPUSAS: SURTIDORA LA PAZ Staples in El Salvador, particularly at Sunday dinners, pupusas are delectable stovetop fritters made of corn and water that taste kind of like Mexican tacos. Pupusas, though, are thicker than tortillas, and so feel more like a comfort food than tacos. Until a year ago, you could only get them locally at Las Americas and Dona Rosa Pupusaria, both places located out Nolensville Road in South Nashville. The pupusas they make at Surtidora La Paz at 819 Main Street in East Nashville are filled with pork and cheese and served with freshly pureed tomatoes and savory pickled cabbage.Pupusas are made to order, so if you’re in a hurry, call ahead (226-1786). If you have time, order when you get there so you can stock up on the Salvadoran and Mexican delicacies at the groceria. —BILL FRISKICS-WARREN BEST APPETIZER: KASHK AT HOUSE OF KABOB Aubergine, brinjal, garden egg, mad apple—call it what you will, eggplant is a notoriously fussy vegetable. In the hands of the wrong cook, the potential for bitterness is ever present. The kashk at House of Kabob is a sublime delicacy—a warm, subtle blend of eggplant, herbs and cream of whey that can transform an otherwise standard piece of pita bread into a vehicle for gustatory enlightenment. It’s the perfect beginning to a meal at the Thompson Lane eatery, which features one the best bargain lunch menus in town, including chicken, salmon and lamb kabobs, kubideh (ground beef with spices), gaymeh (beef stew with sun-dried lime and tomato) and other delights. Parisa’s on Nolensville Road serves another excellent kashk, highlighted by a topping of fried onions. —JACK SILVERMAN BEST STREET FOOD: FRIDAYS AT THE ISLAMIC CENTER OF NASHVILLE Being the automotive town that we are, Nashville doesn’t have a whole lot of use for street-food vendors. It’s the kind of thing you see all over the place overseas and in big-city ethnic neighborhoods, but here people are too content to hop in their cars and drive to their favorite restaurant, even if it’s just down the street. But on Friday afternoons, 12 South residents can feel like real city denizens by strolling up to the Islamic Center at the corner of Sweetbriar and 12th Avenue. There, men stand lined up behind tables stocked with freshly prepared food to feed the hungry worshippers coming out of weekly services. The offerings span half the globe: falafel sandwiches, halal beef sandwiches and fried dough balls from the Middle East; Pakistani samosas and rice dishes; Somali sambusas. For dessert, assuming there’s no baklava for sale, just stroll down the street to Las Paletas. —JONATHAN MARX BEST SAUSAGE: KALAMATA’S I guess it’s no surprise that the high-per-capita-income Green Hills area functions as a lodestar for mediocre cuisine; appropriately, the just-opened Cheesecake Factory looms like a monolith over the mall parking lot. So this quality Mediterranean eatery is a neighborhood treasure (and something of an anomaly). The menu is strong throughout, and specials are always interesting. Nonetheless, I find myself returning to the addictive Persian Lamb Kabob Plate, a generous serving of three hand-formed lamb sausages plus accoutrements. Crucially, the preparation is simple—ground lamb, onion, parsley and “secret spices”—but the end product is exceptional. Since the unceremonious passing of Taste of Italy many years ago, I’ve been hard-pressed to satisfy my Cincinnati-bred craving for quality sausage—until I lucked upon the Kalamata’s kabob.—SCOTT MANZLER BEST REASON TO GO TO PRINTERS ALLEY: PARCO CAFE’S NEW RESTAURANT Most people make their way to Printers Alley at night to partake in a round of karaoke or to check out a blues act at Bourbon Street Blues & Boogie Bar. But in the clear light of day, Printers Alley is actually kind of nice—like our own little French Quarter. Now, with the opening of Parco Café’s new fusion restaurant, fans of the delightful Farmers Market lunch counter will have even more exquisitely prepared salads, sandwiches, entrées, desserts and specialty beverages to choose from. And who knows? Maybe Printers Alley will be the city’s next restaurant hot spot. —JONATHAN MARX BEST ETHNIC SANDWICH: BACK TO CUBA’S CUBANO You can throw on the ham, the pork, the cheese and the pickles, but if the bread ain’t right, it’s won’t cut the mustard—the essential condiment—as a genuine Cubano, the classic sandwich of Old Havana and Little Havana. Thanks to Cuban emigrant Alex Martinez for insisting on getting it right; his crusty bread has just the right subtle hint of sweetness to balance the salty meat and tangy pickles and mustard. Flattened and heated in a sandwich press until the cheese is melted, the sandwich is best eaten right there in the little café, over a game of dominos, listening to lilting music from the homeland. Chase it with a stout and sweet demitasse of Cuban coffee. —KAY WEST BEST CHINESE: GOLDEN COAST SATURDAY & SUNDAY BUFFET There are probably 50 Chinese buffets in the Nashville area where diners can load up on egg roll, shrimp toast, spareribs, hot and sour soup, crab Rangoon, beef with broccoli and Jell-O, but only one that also offers seaweed with bacon and edamame, steamed fish with ginger, kung pao squid, hacked chicken with garlic, chicken feet, sweet rice and whole fried fish. On Saturdays and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., the dining room of Golden Coast is packed with Asian immigrants who bypass the pans of Americanized Chinese and go straight for the pork feet in brown sauce, bubble tea and the beloved porridge-like staple, congee. Advice to round-eyes making their first visit: circle the entire buffet before committing to a dish, then follow the lead of someone who looks like they know what they’re doing. —KAY WEST BEST CHEESE SELECTION: WILD OATS Vegetarians I understand; large-scale meat factories dehumanize the end user even as they conflate living creatures with raw materials. But vegans? Enslave the mammaries of cows, goats, sheep, what have you; quality cheese is too precious a gift to foreswear. Typically, Nashville is a bit behind the cheese renaissance curve. But this Green Hills outpost of the “natural marketplace” chain offers a more than creditable selection: the decadent, buttery Affinois; the nutty, well-rounded Tomme de Savoie; the creamy, earthy St. Marcellin. Just as importantly, the cheese counter staff is knowledgeable and helpful, a plus when navigating the sometimes dizzying array of choices. Note: with the soon-to-open Corrieri’s Formaggeria and the scheduled late-’06 launch of Whole Foods, expect a much more competitive field in coming years.—SCOTT MANZLER BEST FISH MARKET: JAZZ BY THE SEAFOOD If Michael Sturgis’ fish was any fresher, it would still be swimming. Though he removes the hook before laying out the daily catch, an ocean scent wafting through the store reassures customers that the route from international waters to this Bellevue Village destination does not detour through a freezer. Sturgis, his wife Mickey and partners Betty Gaither and Mike Rapp employ only certified chefs or experienced seafood chefs who can help customers navigate the unfamiliar—to many in this landlocked region—waters of fresh seafood, and offer advice on the best cooking methods. Total immersion is available through on-site cooking classes at the island kitchen in the center of the store. The unusual name is a reference to Sturgis’ tenure as a touring and session trumpet player. Fishing and playing music, no wonder he always has a smile on his face. —KAY WEST BEST BAGUETTE: CHARPIER’S BAKERY Nashville isn’t a bread town. Along with the story about Native Americans abandoning the east bank of the Cumberland because it felt too creepy, this is one of Nashville’s persistent myths. In fact, Nashvillians have had an authentic New Orleans-style bakery right under their noses since 1986. That’s when David Mosow opened Charpier’s on Duluth Avenue, a classic ma-and-pa operation whose baguettes, like those of the Crescent City, are light and crusty but not too crisp or narrow to support a sandwich. Don’t dash over to Charpier’s for a loaf, however. Mosow (whose 32 years in baking include a stint at New Orleans’ famous Reising’s Bakery) is currently only selling to restaurants and caterers. Try his wares at Sperry’s, Portland Brew, Valentino’s, Green Hills Grille and Sunset Grill. —PAUL GRIFFITH BEST BREAD: CHARLOTTE BAKERY Forget Provence, at least for just a moment. Yes, their artisan breads are great, but in my household we much prefer khobz, the Middle Eastern flatbread made fresh daily at this tiny bakery on Charlotte, just past the White Bridge Road intersection. It’s kind of like a pita bread, in white or whole wheat varieties, but bigger, flatter and with the perfect mix of fluffy, doughy consistency and a hint of crispiness coming through in those places where the dough has spread to a paper thinness. It’s perfect for wrapping around falafel, grilled vegetables and meats, hummus or some other kind of bean salad, and it’s just as good torn off in hunks and dipped in yogurt, chutney or hot sauce. And seeing as how it’s priced for immigrants on a working family’s budget, it’s a sight cheaper than the bread you get at other bakeries in town. Keep your bâtards and petits fours; we’ll gladly take a sack of khobz and a square of baklava any day. —JONATHAN MARX BEST COCKTAIL MENU: ZOLA RESTAURANT There are longer and more convoluted drink lists than the brief cocktail menu at Zola, but none cleverer or more lovingly concocted. In particular, the orange-basil martini, made with a scoop of homemade orange-basil sorbet and Skyy citrus vodka, just says that someone’s back behind the bar really thinking about what flavors are pure and delicious. The Quite a Pear martini—vodka, pear liqueur, rosemary-infused simple syrup and fresh lemon juice—is an alcoholic fusion of flavors worthy of chef Deb Paquette’s thoughtful North African-Mediterranean menu. —CARRINGTON FOX BEST BLOODY MARY: 3 CROW BAR They’re big, they’re bold, and they hit the spot the morning after a particularly bodacious night before. Better yet, on Sundays—just when you need one the most—you get two for the price of one (request that the vodka be disbursed in two separate drinks, or get a double shot of booze in one wallop). Every bartender has a slight variation on the 3 Crow recipe—some like it hot—and you should expect the unexpected when it comes to skewered accoutrements: I have had olives, stuffed olives, pickle spears, pepperoncini, banana peppers, jalapeño peppers and, on one occasion, a slice of white American cheese folded in half. Make it pepper jack and I’m right there with ya. —KAY WEST BEST BLOODY MARY: 3 CROW BAR They’re big, they’re bold, and they hit the spot the morning after a particularly bodacious night before. Better yet, on Sundays—just when you need one the most—you get two for the price of one (request that the vodka be disbursed in two separate drinks, or get a double shot of booze in one wallop). Every bartender has a slight variation on the 3 Crow recipe—some like it hot—and you should expect the unexpected when it comes to skewered accoutrements: I have had olives, stuffed olives, pickle spears, pepperoncini, banana peppers, jalapeño peppers and, on one occasion, a slice of white American cheese folded in half. Make it pepper jack and I’m right there with ya. —KAY WEST BEST ROADHOUSE: BREWHOUSE WEST You don’t have to ride high on a Hog to go to Brewhouse West; while Harleys get preferential parking in the front of the dirt lot, and their leather-garbed riders tend to cluster together in a mildly intimidating fashion, everyone gets the same “we don’t care who you think you are” treatment at this friendly roadhouse. Indoor, outdoor, covered deck and screened porch seating at tables or bars, a jukebox full of classic rock and hardcore country, 24 beers on tap and close to 100 in bottles, and a menu of sandwiches, burritos, burgers, po’boys and wings the size of your fist keep the party going long into the night seven days a week. —KAY WEST BEST IRISH PUB: DAN McGUINNESS What is it about an Irish pub that makes you want to lean your elbows on the bar, tell your troubles to the barkeep and cry mournful tears into your bottomless glass of dark, stout Guinness? Break into a spirited sing-along at the drop of a jig? Or dive into a plate of bangers and mash? Depending on your mood, Dan McGuinness will accommodate any, or all of the above within the course of your stay. The thick brogue and dark humor of Irish native and manager Dermot Edward Michael Patrick Orr defines the confident authenticity of this wood-paneled pub that has established itself as the solid cornerstone of the frenetic Demonbreun corridor. Every day is St. Patrick’s Day at Dan’s. —KAY WEST BEST IRISH PUB: DAN McGUINNESS What is it about an Irish pub that makes you want to lean your elbows on the bar, tell your troubles to the barkeep and cry mournful tears into your bottomless glass of dark, stout Guinness? Break into a spirited sing-along at the drop of a jig? Or dive into a plate of bangers and mash? Depending on your mood, Dan McGuinness will accommodate any, or all of the above within the course of your stay. The thick brogue and dark humor of Irish native and manager Dermot Edward Michael Patrick Orr defines the confident authenticity of this wood-paneled pub that has established itself as the solid cornerstone of the frenetic Demonbreun corridor. Every day is St. Patrick’s Day at Dan’s. —KAY WEST BEST TAP ROOM: THE FLYING SAUCER Back in 1998, the arrival of this Dallas-based chain offered the hope of a revolution. Soon after the opening, local beer options increased two-, maybe even three-fold—after who knows how much badgering and arm-twisting of area distributors. But having established itself as a Nashville institution, this brew mecca has lost much of its youthful hustle. Don’t expect to find Saison Dupont, Dogfish Head’s 60 Minute IPA or Bell’s Oberon—several favorites from recent travels—among their tap offerings any time soon. That said, the Saucer easily (perhaps too easily) remains the class among area “draught emporiums.” Among their 70-plus tap selections, they currently offer De Koninck (not my favorite Belgian ale, but still) and Red Seal, a flavorful amber I first happened upon on a memorable Pacific Coast road trip. —SCOTT MANZLER BEST BEER SELECTION: MIDTOWN WINE & SPIRITS There are basically two criteria for selecting a favorite beer store in Nashville. First, given the eccentricities of Tennessee state law—specifically, that any beverage with five percent alcohol by weight or more can’t be classed as beer (which has its advantages given the indifference of area beer reps)—the establishment must be paired with a wine and liquor outlet. Second, given that any moderately sized operation can house the artificially limited number of brews available to Nashvillians, a knowledgeable and helpful staff is a comfort, if not a necessity. Midtown’s Paul Patel is quick to point out new additions, note unexpected (and inexplicable) supply shortages and discuss the foibles of area distributors. And if you’re passing through Atlanta, disregard all of the above and make a stop at Green’s to check out what Paul could offer in a more conducive environment. —SCOTT MANZLER BEST MICROBREWERY: YAZOO BREWING COMPANY Area brewpubs are good of their sort—I’m partial to Blackstone’s porter, and Bosco’s daily cask offering is almost always worth a try—but this craft brewery is something more. Brewer/owner Linus Hall’s creations tend to push the stylistic envelope, more often than not to winning effect. At a recent visit to their cozy tasting room, only the Amarillo Pale Ale seemedordinary. Their Hefeweizen, a gold medalist at the 2004 Great American Beer Festival, is one of the few domestic interpretations of this popular German style to get the crucial wheat/yeast balance right. And Dos Perros is a marvel, ID’d in their notes as an Austrian alt-by-way-of-Mexico. Fair enough, but if so, this distinctive brew is more lively and complex than any other alt or Mexican beer I’ve sampled. —SCOTT MANZLER BEST NEW CONCEPT: WINE BARS Not that wine bars are all that new, the concept just took a while to make its way here. As Nashville continues its slow but steady march from big small town to small big city, there are milestones of cosmopolitan life we can fondly look back on as a measure of our progress: Sushi. Day spas. Ethnic dining.  $200 haircuts. Artisan bread. Professional sports. Imported cheese. Dog parks. And now, not one, but two wine bars: the local and independently owned Rumours Wine & Art Bar in 12 South, and a Nashville-owned franchise of the Atlanta-originated concept, The Grape, in Belle Meade. The first is homey, mellow, a little bohemian, with a cozy and very popular outdoor patio; The Grape has a more contemporary, sleek, upscale design. Adventure and discovery are encouraged through Rumours’ moderately priced wines by the glass, or “Grapes by the Bunch,”  a selection of three to five wines to taste. Both offer freshly prepared, wine-friendly foods on small plates. —KAY WEST BEST LATE-NIGHT HAPPY HOUR: THURSDAYS AT BEYOND THE EDGE Don’t let the “extreme” nomenclature and sports iconography scare you, because at its heart East Nashville’s Beyond the Edge is a wonderfully diverse place for a late-night snack and drink. Thursday nights have 2-for-1 drafts from 7 p.m. until 2 in the morning, which is refreshing, literally and figuratively. I discovered their later offerings after trying to shoehorn a computer and all its periphery into my car, and the staff and breadth of draft choices probably saved a life or two that particular evening. Add in their nice assortment of wraps and a jukebox with an almost perverse variety, and you have the place to wind down on Thursdays. —JASON SHAWHAN BEST UNSWEETENED ICED TEA: PORTLAND BREW Sweet tea is a fine Southern tradition, but it’s usually impossible to discern the taste of tea behind all that sugar. You could be drinking swamp water. The gourmet tea craze hasn’t hit Nashville yet, so there’s no hope of getting Golden Assam or Tiger Hill Nilgiri over ice, but the folks at Portland Brew are offering up an exceptionally good glass of the cold stuff at both the 12 South and Murphy Road shops. There’s a hint of spice enhancing the full tea flavor, but traditionalists fear not—inside sources report that the amber brew is plain old Lipton’s, with a little Constant Comment added. In other words, it’s just the sort of unpretentious concoction a dedicated iced tea lover might whip up at home. —MARIA BROWNING