Upon arriving in The Gulch, you’re keenly aware of two things: one, this isn’t your grandfather’s Nashville; two, there’s a lot going on here. You almost don’t know where to begin, but the night is young and the street is alive with opportunities. You proceed without caution.

After years of wallowing in gritty, industrial blight—which, at best, made the rough hewn atmosphere of the resident Station Inn all the more endearing—The Gulch now shines as a location for sleek, contemporary dining and entertainment. Led by Marketstreet Enterprises, the transformation of the railroad scar beneath the Broadway overpass began to take shape around 2000, first luring adventurous diners to the ambitious but short-lived 6° restaurant. Despite a dazzling and expensive renovation of its warehouse location, the pioneering nightspot failed. But the buzz just got louder as restaurants like Sambuca, Watermark, Radius10 and RuSan’s and Bar Twenty3—the last was selected among the top 100 clubs in the nation in 2005 by Nightclub & Bar magazine—filled the void and created critical neighborhood mass. Now, crowds line up outside RuSan’s for the daily sushi buffet, elegant restaurant patios fill up at night with the young and beautiful, and the Scene named Watermark the best new restaurant in the classic dining category while tapping Radius10 best new restaurant in the cutting edge category in 2006.

With dining and nightlife underway, residential living space is set to boom. Terrazzo Tower and the ICON will bring hundreds of residents to the once-neglected area, which now also bustles with the bakery operations of Provence Breads, City Hall performance venue, attractive streetscaping and various retail stores. No longer a shortcut into downtown, The Gulch has arrived as its own destination.

If you choose to continue your adventure and head north, click here.

If you decide you need to burn some calories, click here.

The Nashville Scene’s Dining Guide is a selective listing of local restaurants compiled by the newspaper’s editorial department. Listings rotate based on available space. For the complete version, visit nashvillescene.com. To be considered for the Dining Guide, contact us at editor@nashvillescene.com or c/o Nashville Scene, 2120 8th Ave. S., Nashville, TN 37204.

PRICING GUIDE

For full-service restaurants, this guide reflects the cost of a meal consisting of three courses: entrée, plus some combination of appetizer, salad and dessert. Beverages and gratuity have not been figured in.

$ - under $7.50

$$ - $7.50-$19

$$$ - $20-$34

$$$$ - $35-$50

$$$$$ - over $50

AFRICAN

GYE-NYAME Courtesy of its Ghanaian owners, Gye-Nyame offers a taste of West African cuisine, which features the key flavors of palm oil, hot chilies, peanuts, okra and yam. The menu offers an intriguing peanut butter soup, stews and dishes with beef, chicken, lamb, fish or goat. The curry is pungent and mildly spicy, somewhat similar to the curries one might find in West Indian eateries, while the peanut butter soup is something of an acquired taste. The jollof rice is a rich, tomatoey casserole. A $4.99 lunch special is served daily. 2185 Nolensville Rd. 256-7025. 11 am-9 pm Mon.-Sat.; 1:30 am-7 pm Sun. $

LALIBELA Named after a town in the highlands of Ethiopia, Lalibela occupies the building that formerly housed Nashville’s first Ethiopian eatery, Addis Ababa. All dishes are served atop a large round of damp, spongy, skillet-cooked bread called injera, and they include the selections typically found at Ethiopian restaurants: spicy wat stew of beef, chicken or lentils; mildly seasoned alicha stew; and tibbs, a mound of seasoned beef chunks. 415 Thompson Ln. 332-0710. 11:30 am-10 pm Tues.-Sun. $$

BAKERY/COFFEEHOUSE/CAFE

BONGO JAVA The first and most bohemian of Bob Bernstein’s three coffee shops, Bongo Java is furnished with wobbly wooden tables, schoolhouse chairs and a staff armed with an acerbic wit. It’s the unofficial student center for Belmont University across the street, a pit stop for new mothers strolling babies and a cheap, networking hangout for musicians. Breakfast on a bagel and a simple sandwich menu feed this laid-back crowd from morning till night. 2007 Belmont Blvd. 385-JAVA. 7 am-11 pm Mon.-Fri.; 7 am-midnight Fri.; 8 am-midnight weekends. www.bongojava.com. $

DULCE DESSERTS Juanita Lane’s sweet repertoire of European-style bakery delights includes chocolate hazelnut torte, chocolate turtle cake, coconut cream pie with macadamia nut crust, buttercake with truffle filling and a secret family recipe for crustless pear cheesecake with sour cream topping and strawberry sauce. Stop in daily for cookies, desserts and newly added decadent cupcakes, but be sure to call at least 24 hours ahead for custom cakes and holiday traditions like Christmas cookies, pecan and pumpkin pies and buche de Noel. 1207 Villa Pace 321-8700. 9 am-5:30 pm Tues.-Fri.; 9 am-1 pm Sat. Mondays by appointment $-$$$$

FROTHY MONKEY Despite the polished accoutrements, this place has a warm, casual ambience; come as you are, relax, hang out, stay as long as you wish. Along with the full range of coffee drinks, breakfast offerings include muffins, fresh fruit plates, yogurt parfaits, croissants, cereal and bagels. Of the seven creatively executed sandwiches offered at lunch, my favorite is the PMP—prosciutto, provolone, fresh mozzarella and arugula, on toasted Tuscan rosemary bread with fresh basil mayo. There are three salads, or diners can build their own from an extensive list of ingredients. And not only is Frothy Monkey’s food consistently good, it’s good for you, as promised on the mission statement at the bottom of the menu: “As much as possible, the Frothy Monkey uses all natural, organic, preservative-free, hormone-free, antibiotic-free and fair-traded foods.” 2509 12th Ave. S. 292-1808. 7 am-7 pm Mon.-Fri.; 8 am-7 pm Sat.-Sun. www.frothymonkey.com. $-$$

KIJIJI COFFEE HOUSE & DELI One of the first new businesses to open in years in the once-thriving heart of Nashville’s Jefferson Street community, Kijiji—which means village is Swahili—has succeeded by providing a gathering place for a diverse clientele with common interests. From behind the counter come coffee drinks, herbal teas, smoothies, sandwiches and desserts. From the stage, live jazz, R&B, hip-hop and open-mic poetry. From the heart, a warm welcome to all who come through the doors of each of the now three locations. Second Avenue location is open until midnight on Saturday. 1207 Jefferson St. 321-0403. Mon.-Thurs. 9 am-7 pm; Fri. 9 am-11 pm; 10 am-11 pm Sat. $

MARCHÉ ARTISAN FOODS Margot McCormack of East Nashville’s beloved Margot Café oversees the menu of breakfast, lunch and early dinner at this market-cum-cafe with European influences similar to the restaurant. Salads, soups, omelettes and other creative lunch fare are available with full service. Marché stocks gourmet and specialty products, fresh fish and cuts of meat for cooking at home, imported cheese, as well as stocks, sauces, soups and takeout meals. 1000 Main St. 262-1111. 7 am-7 pm Tues.-Fri. Brunch on weekends. $$-$$$

PORTLAND BREW Mid-South natives Brandon and Tracy Stakelbeck spent some time in Portland, Ore., where they fell in love with neighborhood coffee shops. Attracted to Nashville’s creative community, they moved here and opened Portland Brew. Business is bustling at their outpost in the 12 South neighborhood, thanks to great coffee and tea drinks, delicious muffins and baked goods, a small menu of breakfast bagels, a separate menu for grilled sandwiches on freshly baked baguettes, and a friendly staff who knows your name, where you live and how you like your coffee. Portland Brew’s second location on Murphy Road, in a larger building with booths and tables, is just up the street from where the coffeehouse originally began in Sylvan Park. 2605 12th Ave. S. 292-9004. 7 am-midnight Mon.-Sat. 1921 Eastland Ave. 262-9088. 7 am-7 pm Mon.-Sat. $-$$

BARBECUE

HOG HEAVEN This tiny spot does a booming business, mostly in take-out orders, but there are a few wooden tables on the covered patio where diners can plop down for a quick bite. The moist pulled pork is lunch on a bun, and there are two types of barbecued chicken as well. In addition to regular barbecue sauce, which comes in varying levels of heat, there’s also a tasty white barbecue sauce. Get a couple of sides—the white beans and slaw are best bets—and call it dinner. 115 27th Ave. N. 329-1234. 10 am-7 pm Mon.-Sat. $

JUDGE BEAN’S BAR-B-QUE Aubrey Bean hooked emigrant Texas horns by the truckload to a little wood-planked building on Wedgewood Avenue when he first fired up his smoker, sending the smell of burning mesquite and barbecue brisket over the city. His clientele grew and grew as locals converted from pork to beef, new menu items were added and live music became a nightly staple. The rapid growth eventually forced Bean to move kit, caboodle and smokers to the rapidly developing Gulch, where he has hung his hats in a corner brick building that once housed upscale restaurant Café 123. Judge Bean’s Bar-B-Que and Steakhouse is decidedly downscale, serving up smoked brisket, ribs, chicken, sausage and bologna, tacos, burritos, tamales and his signature Scorpion Diablos. A full bar keeps whistles whetted. 123 12th Ave. N. 244-8884. 11 am-3 pm Mon.-Tues.; 11 am-10 pm Wed.-Sat. $-$$

MARY’S OLD FASHIONED PIT BARBECUE This longtime Jefferson Street fixture is one of the most racially, socially and economically diverse dining establishments in the city. It’s also the only place in town to get a slab of ribs at 4 am or 4 pm. It’s take-out only, but many customers go no farther than their front seat before plowing into the superb short rib sandwich. The fish sandwich—filets rolled in corn meal, deep-fried and served on two slices of white bread with pickles, onion, mustard and hot sauce—is awesome. 1108 Jefferson St. 256-7696. 8 am-midnight Mon.-Thurs.; 8 am-5 am Fri.-Sat.; 2-10 pm Sun. $

MOTHERSHIP BBQ Bass player and blogger Jim Reams makes baby back ribs and pulled pork so moist and flavorful that you can eat ’em completely nekkid, but then you’d miss the bodacious sauce—midway between sweet and vinegar, a top-secret recipe, available in regular or hot. The trio of Mothership-made sides includes a tangy, crunchy slaw, pinto beans that taste like they’ve been simmering on your momma’s stove all day, and a superb red potato salad. Mac and cheese, that classic Southern vegetable, is in the research and development stage. The menu, written on a dry-erase board for spontaneous modification, is succinct: pulled pork sandwich ($4) or plate ($6 with two sides), pulled pork and rib combo ($8), rib plate ($9.50), rack ($18 full/$9 half). The ladies loo deserves a look-see. 2806 Columbine Pl. 269-7150. 11 am-8 pm Mon.-Fri.; 11 am-2 pm Sat. www.mothershipbbq.com. $-$$

BURGERS & DELI

BOBBIE’S DAIRY DIP In the same location for more than half a century, Bobbie’s is a delightful blast from the past, a favorite family pit stop for hand-patted burgers, fresh-cut fries and soft ice cream treats. The current owner has breathed new life into the old gal while retaining the old-fashioned charm of the walk-up order windows and the concrete picnic tables. Grilled chicken sandwiches and jumbo beef hot dogs round out the grill menu, and the sweet potato fries are a favorite. The Holy Guacamole veggie patty is a spicy black-bean burger piled high with guacamole, jalapeños, tomatoes, onions, cheddar cheese, salsa, and sour cream. Order nachos with or without chili. The classic small cone is perfect for the toddler set; the Kitchen Sink is nearly a gallon of ice cream with everything on it, for $17.95. 5301 Charlotte Pk. 292-2112. NOTE: Hours change with the season. $

HOT DIGGITY DOGS Chicagoan Layla Vartanian and deep-fried Southerner Gayle Davis have taken a sorry little building and made it cute as a button. All their dogs are Vienna-brand 100 percent beef, and can be steamed or charbroiled; served Chicago-style, they come topped with yellow mustard, finely diced raw onion, green relish, chopped fresh tomato, sport peppers, a strip of dill pickle and celery salt. The Boston dog has baked beans, onion and cheese; the New York is the street food standard with kraut, mustard and onions; the Texan layers chili on top of onion and cheese; and the newly invented Nashville has Southern slaw, mustard and onions. Rounding out the menu are a Polish sausage sandwich, an Italian sausage sandwich and a robustly seasoned Italian beef sandwich on fresh focaccia bread. Don’t deny yourself an order of their superb fresh cut fries, done to a golden crisp, drained, salted and served in a brown paper sack. 614 Ewing Ave. 255-3717. 10 am-4 pm Mon.-Fri.; 11 am-4 pm Sat. $

CASUAL

COPPER KETTLE After a 2004 fire sent the small restaurant in temporary exile in the Bellevue Mall, Copper Kettle has reopened in the strip across from David Lipscomb, where a devout clientele lines up for a simple menu of sandwiches, wraps and salads alongside a home-cooked meat-n-three repertoire. Diners can count on fried chicken Mondays, meatloaf Tuesdays, coconut chicken Wednesdays, pot roast Thursdays and seafood Fridays, plus a different chef’s choice entrée every day. The superb Sunday brunch buffet is one of Nashville’s most popular—and reasonable—at $15.99 per person (children 6-10 $6.99, five and under free). 4004 Granny White Pike 383-7242. 11 am-8 pm Mon.-Fri.; 10 am-2 pm Sun. 4004 Granny White Pk reopening late Feb. or early March. $-$$

GOLD RUSH The Gold Rush is not only legendary, it is notoriously so. A landmark on Elliston Place, a.k.a. Rock Block, this bar-restaurant is where generations have come to drink, play pool, hang-out then sober up with the equally legendary Gold Rush Bean Roll, a ten-inch tortilla filled with refried beans, cheese, tomato and onion, topped with a bucket of red sauce, cheese, sour cream and a big, fat jalapeño. There are variations, but the original remains the most popular. An extensive menu of appetizers, sandwiches, salads, burgers and entrées is popular at lunch, dinner and late-night. While it was once rightfully regarded as somewhat of a dive, it received an extensive deep-clean and sprucing up when new owners took over. 2205 Elliston Pl. 321-1160. 11 am-2 am daily. $$

PANCAKE PANTRY Country singer Garth Brooks is one of a cast of thousands who have stood in line at this 40-year-old landmark for a plate of buttermilk pancakes. According to owner David Baldwin, if the line is to the door, the wait is about 15 minutes; the wait is twice as long if the line is to the corner; and count on at least 45 minutes if it snakes down 21st Avenue. 1796 21st Ave. N. 383-9333. 6 am-3 pm Mon.-Fri.; 6 am-4 pm Sat.-Sun. $-$$

PAST PERFECT This pub might be a victim of bad timing, having opened in the shadow of the Shelby Street Pedestrian Bridge before the neighborhood south of Broadway really took off. It has held on by virtue of its cozy ambiance, charming interior and earnest efforts by the youthful owners to please the customers that happen to wander in. Still, it is within walking distance of the newly opened Schemerhorn Symphony Center, the Gaylord Entertainment Center and a half-dozen honky-tonks; if it can focus on its food profile and define its vision, it could be perfectly primed as an ideal spot for off-Broadway drinking and dining. 122 Third Ave. S. 736-7727. 11 am-2 am daily. $$-$$$

RED WAGON CAFE Though the process of making a decision about what to eat here can be painful in a sort of pleasurable way, the good news is that there simply are no wrong choices to be made from the Red Wagon menu. Chef/co-owner Meg Giuffrida’s food is consistently superb, with clean, fresh flavor bursting forth from every plate. Her focus is home-cooked healthy foods and seasonal eating, using organics as much as possible. Though she does the Southern regional thing as well as anyone, her global influences are frequently Asian and Indian. Vegetarians and even vegans will be pleased with her generosity toward their dietary lifestyles. 1112 Woodland St. 226-2527. Lunch 11 am-2:30 pm Tues.-Fri. Brunch: 10 am-2 pm Sat.-Sun. $-$$

SOUTH STREET ORIGINAL CRAB SHACK, SMOKEHOUSE AND TREEHOUSE OYSTER BAR The wordy name of this joint says it all. Buckets of cold long-neck beers are the preferred beverage to wash down the “Southern urban cuisine” here. A favorite refueling spot for weekend Harley riders, the bar is also a popular after-work hangout for music-bizzers. Featured dishes include South Street’s famous smoked ribs, smoked pumped chicken and Carolina crab cakes. The second-story treehouse bar is indeed nestled in the branches of a large tree, a favorite not-so-secret clubhouse that’s not for members only. Curbside pick-up available. 907 20th Ave. S. 320-5555. 11 am-2:30am Mon.-Sat.; 11 am-11:30 pm Sun. www.pansouth.net. $$-$$$

TIN ROOF Owners Jason and Libby Sheer have gotten all the elements right for a happenin’ joint: cold beer, a full bar with 50 kinds of tequila, an easygoing vibe, a cool, roadhouse-decorated interior and lots of outdoor seating. Of note on the menu of snacks and sandwiches are the white cheese and jalapeño dip; the deep-fried hot dogs, which come buried under a pile of slaw; and the six quesadillas. 1516 Demonbreun St. 313-7103. 11 am-3 am Mon.-Fri.; 5 pm-3 am Sat. $$

CHINESE/MONGOLIAN

GENGHIS GRILL In Cool Springs, there’s a chain restaurant for nearly every cuisine, including Mongolian barbecue. The system is as simple as 1-2-3: pick your meat and veggies from a clean, well-maintained salad bar and pack them in a bowl, add spices and fill a small cup with a sauce (suggestions for combos and seasonings are posted on the wall) and hand it to the counter attendant. A member of the cooking crew will stir-fry it all up on a large, circular stone grill, then pass it back to you with your requested starch. Relatively healthy and moderately priced. 600B Frazier Dr. Suite 140. 771-0111. 11 am-9 pm Sun.-Thurs.; 11 am-10 pm Fri.-Sat. $$-$$$

GOLDEN COAST To the best of our knowledge, this midtown restaurant is the only place in Nashville serving authentic Chinese food—and only then on weekends from 11 a.m-2:30 p.m. Several years ago, owners Annie and Yun Feng Yeh started adding authentic fare to their Saturday-Sunday buffet to accommodate fellow Taiwanese and Chinese immigrants yearning for a taste of home. And so, in addition to a usual Chinese menu designed to please less adventurous American palates, about half of the steam-table offerings hold goodies one might request from a dim sum cart or order from a Chinatown restaurant. As far as we know, Golden Coast is the only restaurant in town to serve congee, a thick gruel of rice and water that serves as a base for other ingredients such as fish, eggs, chicken and sometimes peanuts. Though the congee pot is refilled repeatedly, it is almost always gone for good long before the rest of the buffet shuts down. Other dishes worth sampling from the buffet include the steamed shrimp dumplings, the terrific seaweed with bacon and edamame, the steamed fish with ginger and soy sauce, the pork feet in an intense brown sauce, and the hacked chicken (boiled with ginger and onion, cut in thick slices and served cold). 1722 West End Ave. 321-8882. Lunch: 11 am-2:30 pm daily. Dinner: 5 pm-9 pm. $$

KHAN’S MONGOLIAN BBQ Ancient lore indicates that Mongolian barbecue originates from Mongol warriors who cooked dinner on their shields out on the battlefield; the modern concept replaces shields with a large round grill heated to 500 degrees. Here is the way it works at Khan’s, a quick, affordable and tasty self-service lunch spot: customers take a bowl, then choose one of four meats. Bins of freshly sliced or chopped veggies are next, including sprouts, bamboo shoots, snow peas, mushrooms, broccoli, carrots, celery, cabbage and water chestnuts, along with tofu. Pile them on, then proceed to the spice/sauce/oil section. Carry your bowl to the counter, where the clerk will take your beverage order and ask if you prefer noodles or white or brown rice. Your bowl is dumped on the grill, cooked, thrown on the requested starch and handed back to you. Though the small store was consistently busy during our visit, the salad bar was kept filled and cleaned, tables were wiped down between diners, and the harried counter staff was pleasant and helpful. 237 4th Ave. N. 726-2340. 10:30 am-3 pm Mon.-Fri. $

CONTEMPORARY CUISINE

THE ACORN One block off West End, The Acorn has thrived on its quiet, shaded side-street lot and taken firm root in Nashville’s dining firmament. Credit savvy and focused young owner John Leonard, a native of Washington, D.C., who stepped out on a limb and opened The Acorn in 2003 with his wife Pamela. By all accounts, it was an impressive debut, winning several reader-voted Scene Best of Nashville awards in its first year of operation. There’s a lot to love—the sexy, sophisticated main dining room uses rich colors, lush texture, low lights, comfortable furnishings and elegant accoutrements to set the stage for romantic dinners, celebratory occasions or professional preoccupations. At the top of the stairs, another bar and lounge vibrate with youthful energy, while the second-floor patio nestled in the treetops is a favorite location for a casual bite and drinks with friends. The food is attuned to the season, committed to quality and artfully presented. 114 28th Ave. N. 320-4399. Regular dining hours: 5-10 pm Mon.-Thurs.; 5-11 pm Fri.-Sat. Late-night menu 10 pm-midnight Mon.-Thurs., 11 pm-1 am Fri.-Sat. $$$-$$$$

FIREFLY GRILLE When longtime restaurateur Curt Cole decided to open an upscale, contemporary American restaurant, he placed it in the city’s second most upscale neighborhood, Green Hills. Deer Park Grille was nestled in the curve of Bandywood that’s also home to some very upscale retailers; a certain well-heeled crowd loved it for many good reasons, but they only loved it one night every couple of weeks. So Cole gave the place a colorful and whimsical interior makeover, whisked off the linens, 86-ed the printed menu in favor of a chalkboard that announces a rotating—and concise—menu and renamed it Firefly Grille. Martinis are still sipped by sophisticates at the intimate little bar, but these days sippie cups are also welcome in the dining room. As for entrées, reel in the salmon or whatever the fish of the day might be. The chocolate crème brûlée is a torrid affair, and it may well sum up the appeal of Firefly Grille: your meal will feel indulgent and upscale, but the restaurant is a genuinely casual affair. 2201 Bandywood Dr. 383-0042. Lunch: 11 am-2 pm Mon.-Sat. Dinner: 5-9:30 pm Mon.-Sat. $$-$$$

GERMANTOWN CAFE Chris Lowry and Jay Luther’s neighborhood bistro is elegant and sophisticated, with a minimalist, contemporary-styled room framing a spectacular view of downtown. Germantown Cafe adheres to the promise of straightforward dining in the style of classic bistros, with unpretentious, well-prepared food, sturdy white china, thick cotton linens, solid stemware and cutlery with a weighty heft. Perusing the selection of entrées is pleasantly effortless, with just 10 to consider, including a green plate for vegetarians. Meat and potatoes is the starting premise of several dishes, with the supremely succulent mustard-herb-crusted rack of lamb leading the way. The preparation of the day’s catch changes every night, but the coconut curry salmon filet perched atop a sphere of creamy risotto is a dependably delicious staple. The menu is tweaked as the seasons change (it is within walking distance of the Farmers Market). A recent expansion moved the bar to a separate room with a small lounge, and added more dining room seating on an elevated platform, the better to see the Nashville skyline. 1200 5th Ave. N. 242-3226. Lunch: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri. Dinner: 5-9 pm Mon.; 5-10 pm Tues.-Sat.; 5-9 pm Sun. Brunch: 10:30 am-2 pm Sun. $$-$$$

MAD PLATTER Mad Platter has more than earned its spot on the short list of Nashville’s best restaurants, and maintains its hold as that list grows ever longer. Opened by Marcia and Craig Jervis in 1989, it was one of the first fine restaurants in town that changed its menu every month, adhering to rules of season and availability. The Jervises even planted a garden in the backyard to provide their own herbs, flowers and some produce. When it comes to a special dining experience, Mad Platter is a sure bet, but never lapses into predictability. Many diners opt for the Platter’s signature five-course dinner: soup, appetizer, salad, entrée and dessert for an additional $20 over the price of the chosen main dish. Reservations recommended. 1239 6th Ave. N. 242-2563. 11 am-2 pm Mon.-Fri; 5:30-11:30 pm Tues.-Sat.; 5-9 pm Sun. $$$-$$$$

PARCO CAFE After years of working magic behind a small counter space in Farmers Market, Tsuo and Chun Fu have opened a full-service restaurant in Printers Alley. In addition to their outstanding sandwiches and salads, the Fus have added a whole menu of dishes that draw on their Chinese backgrounds, their years living in America and their extensive food studies abroad. You’ll be mesmerized by Tsuo’s methods of brewing individual cups of coffee and pots of Silk Road tea. You’ll become a passionate proselytizer for Nashville’s best homemade veggie burger. You’ll be astounded by the impeccably executed soups, appetizers and entrées. And Chun’s exquisite desserts will bring tears to your eyes. 207 3rd Ave. N., inside Printers Alley 259-7863. 11 am-8 pm Tues.-Sat. $$-$$$

RUMBA RUM BAR AND SATAY GRILL Owner Tom Sheffer describes the food at his hot and hopping West End restaurant as “equatorial cuisine,” with influences from the Caribbean, South Pacific, Latin America, Indonesia and Spain. An extensive menu of fruity, colorful, exotic drinks will start the evening on a festive note. One could make a meal of the appetizers, which isn’t such a bad idea. The couve—a side dish of chopped kale, flash-cooked and seasoned with garlic, onions and lemon juice—is outstanding and can be ordered on its own for just $3. 3009 West End Ave. 321-1350. 4 pm-12 am Mon.-Thurs.; 4 pm-1 am Fri.-Sat.; 4-11 pm Sun. $$$-$$$$

SAMBUCA This upscale supper club with Texas ties (the brother-sister owners opened the first Sambuca in Dallas) gussies up the gritty Gulch with live music seven nights a week and fine dining created by globe-trotting chef Stephen Shires. His extensive travel and experience in international kitchens of renown packs his menu with worldly influence and discovery. The nightly entertainment is built into the dining costs, which puts entrées in the $20-$30 range. 601 12th Ave. S. 248-2888. Lunch: 11 am-3 pm Mon.-Fri. Dinner: 6-10 pm Sun.-Wed.; 6-11 pm Thurs.; 6-midnight Fri.-Sat. Bar stays open later. $$$-$$$$

ZOLA Chef Deb Paquette has really spread her wings at Zola, which she co-owns with husband Ernie. Her influence is primarily Mediterranean, her menus wildly innovative, her dishes complex and exotic. Consistently cited as Nashville’s best restaurant, Zola attracts culinary cognoscenti as well as slightly-less-adventurous fans of her earthy, soulful fare. Those who demand extraordinary dining experiences will not be disappointed. Zola was named one of two of Nashville’s best upscale restaurants in Gourmet’s annual and much anticipated “Best Restaurants in America” issue. 3001 West End Ave. 320-7778. 5:30-10 pm Mon.-Thurs.; 5:30-11 pm Fri.-Sat. $$$

CREOLE/CAJUN

WILMA KAYE’S CAJUN KITCHEN Wilma Kaye Hinshaw and her son Randy Ramsey, transplants from Louisiana, serve up regional delectables like po’boys, gumbo, crawfish étouffée, crab cakes rémoulade, fried shrimp and oysters, and red beans and rice—all of it fantastic. Heat-seeking missiles head straight to Wilma Kaye’s for Randy’s spicy-hot Cajun fried chicken: injected, marinated, dredged through seasoned flour, deep-fried, then sprinkled with dry Cajun spice for an over-the-top, oooo-eeeee kick. Also used on other dishes, the popular Cajun Spice is now for sale alongside Ramsey’s hush puppy mix, “Le Roux” seasoning, and Creole Dressing and Marinade. The restaurant’s signature Cajun fried pies—turnovers made with flaky semi-sweet dough and filled with shrimp and crabmeat au gratin—are now available daily. Formerly located in a small downtown storefront, Wilma Kaye’s has moved out to a larger location near Percy Priest Lake. Serving all-you-can-eat catfish for $10.95 from 5 to 9 p.m. on Fridays. 575 Stewarts Ferry Pike 902-0234. 11 am-2 pm Mon.-Fri; 11 am-6 pm Tues.-Sat. $

HISPANIC

BACK TO CUBA CAFE Cuban émigré Alex Martinez and his Central American-born wife Rebecca have owned and operated Mama Mia’s Italian restaurant for more than 10 years. With Back to Cuba, Martinez pays homage to his native island. Cuban food is not spicy, but it is highly seasoned, as diners will discover in specialties like lechon (marinated and roasted pork), ropa vieja (seasoned beef stew cooked until the meat is in shreds) and pargo frito (fried red snapper, served whole), all of them served with black beans and rice, and two different types of fried plantain. The Cuban sandwich is nearly as good as any one might find in Little Havana—the classic construction of ham, pork, cheese, pickles and mustard is layered on a length of French bread, swiped with butter, and cooked on a sandwich press until the cheese and meats ooze together in gooey goodness. 4683 Trousdale Ln. 837-6711. 11 am-9 pm Tues.-Sat. $-$$

BAJA BURRITO A cheery little restaurant that puts a smile on your face the minute you walk in the door. Get in line and order a burrito: chicken, steak or veggies on white, wheat or flavored tortilla, accompanied by black or pinto beans, Mexican-style brown rice, cheese and salsa. Ask the friendly counter guy to throw on some lettuce, tomato, onions, olives, cilantro, sour cream and guacamole, and you’ve got yourself a two-fisted cure for the blues. The fish tacos, a house specialty, are so good you’ll be delirious. The independently owned Baja Burrito preceded Baja Fresh and Moe’s Southwest Grill in town, and still beats the chains hands-down. 722 Thompson Ln. 383-2252. 11 am-9 pm Mon.-Sat. $

LA HACIENDA TAQUERIA A decade ago, native Mexican Carlos Yepez opened a Hispanic market with a small grill to serve the growing south-of-the-border population. Soon word got out about his soft tacos served with chopped meat, fresh cilantro, a slice of avocado and a wedge of lime. Gringos flocked, La Hacienda expanded, then expanded again. Now it is a full-service restaurant, and though it has made concessions to its American clientele, it has the best seafood cocktail in town. 2615 Nolensville Rd. 256-6142. 10 am-9 pm Mon.-Thurs.; 9 am-10 pm Fri.-Sat.; 9 am-9 pm Sun. $-$$

LAS AMERICAS TAQUERIA & PUPUSERIA Like many of its compadres, Las Americas opened as a market, then added a dining area. It’s got the usual suspects—tacos, tortas, tostados, enchiladas—but what distinguishes it are the pupusas, a staple of El Salvador, the native home of owner Juan Cruz. Corn meal dough is patted around fillings of pork, beans and/or cheese, then grilled and served with a mild tomato sauce and a spicy slaw of chopped cabbage and carrots. 4715 Nolensville Pk. 315-8888. 10 am-10 pm daily. $-$$

HOT CHICKEN/HOT FISH

EASTSIDE FISH Donald Boatright calls himself King Fish, not to be confused with Kingfish, the new restaurant that opened on Eighth Ave. N. in mid-2006, and is challenging Boatright for a piece of the hot fish sandwich action. Eastside boasts the Crunkest Fish in Town, and he’s got a good argument, particularly when it comes to the Giant King, nearly two pounds of beautifully fried fish filet bulging out of two slices of white bread; for less than $7, it can easily feed a couple of commoners. (Cash only.) 2617 Gallatin Pike 227-8388. 11 am-9 pm, Mon.-Thurs., 11 am-11 pm, Fri. & Sat. $-$$

KNOCKOUT WINGS TSU grad Trey Campbell’s place doesn’t look like much from the outside, but Fisk and TSU students are loyal to the wings, enormous hamburgers and whiting fish sandwiches. The real TKO is the homemade honey-glazed biscuits, just 50 cents each. Friendly staff and a boxing-glove-wearing rooster mark this student favorite, not to mention a 10-percent discount with student ID. 1300 Jefferson St. 320-3222. 10:30 am-10 pm; Mon.-Thurs. 10:30 am-2 am Fri. and Sat. $

PRINCE’S HOT CHICKEN SHACK The royalty of Nashville’s hot chicken world, Prince’s was crowned by Gourmet magazine’s annual “Best American Restaurants” issue as one of four don’t-miss dining experiences in Nashville. Everyone from blue-collar working stiffs to working girls to white-shirted bluebloods line up at the little ordering window inside for a chicken sandwich. It comes in four varieties: mild, medium, hot or, for the truly reckless, extra hot. All sandwiches come on two slices of white bread with pickles. Douse the flames with a beverage from the soda machine, or a side of the cooling coleslaw. Whatever the case, do not drive or get your fingers anywhere near your eyes while eating hot chicken. Oh, and delay travel plans for at least 24 hours. The baked beans also come highly recommended. 123 Ewing Dr. 226-9442. 12 pm-12 am Tues.-Thurs.; 12 pm-4 am Fri.-Sat. $

ICE CREAM

LAS PALETAS In Mexico paletas, or Popsicles, are a common snack or dessert. When sisters Irma and Norma Paz made a trip home several years ago, they became convinced that the simple treat could be equally popular in America. The found a paleta-maker willing to share his trade secrets, and when they returned to Nashville, they found a location in the 12 South neighborhood. The small store carries up to two dozen flavors daily, all made fresh with no preservatives or artificial flavors. Depending on the availability of the fruit, one can choose from hibiscus, lime, tamarind, watermelon, strawberry or the distinctive chili-cucumber. There are freshly made ice cream-based paletas as well, in flavors ranging from rich chocolate to the delicious, creamy prune. NOTE: Hours change with the season. 2907 12th Ave. S. 386-2101. Noon-6 pm Tues.-Sat. $

SHAKE’S FROZEN CUSTARD Custard’s only stand within the 440 loop is easily accessed by David Lipscomb students, who are prohibited from drinking alcohol but can indulge in this super-rich treat in this little store bathed in soda shop nostalgia with a soundtrack of ’50s music. Frozen custard is the backbone of the menu, served in cups, cones, shakes, malts, floats and designer sundaes. 4002 Granny White Pike 292-5551. 11 am- 10 pm, Mon.-Thurs., 11 am-11 pm Fri.&Sat., 2-10 pm Sun. $

INDIAN

CUISINE OF INDIA Within easy walking distance of the sprawling Vanderbilt Medical Center compound, Cuisine of India nearly sent docs, nurses and support staff into cardiac arrest when it lost its lease on the original site. But when a sushi restaurant went out of business in the nearby building that houses Pizza Perfect, Cuisine snatched it, redecorated the large dining room, and was back in business with its popular lunchtime buffet of well-executed Indian fare—with an emphasis on vegetarian dishes—in a white tablecloth environment. 1602 21st Ave. S. 320-1315. Buffet: 11 am-2:30 pm Mon.-Sat., noon-2:30 Sun.; Dinner 5-10 pm Mon.-Sun. $$-$$$

WOODLANDS INDIAN VEGETARIAN CUISINE The entrées at this rare vegetarian-only Indian spot are divided into five main categories: dosa, uthappam, curries, pullavs (rice dishes) and specialties. If you’re a first-timer and overwhelmed by the choices, head straight to the specialties such as malabar adai, a mixed-lentil pancake with vegetables and cilantro on top, and pesarat uppma, a lentil-flour pancake filled with cream of wheat seasoned with onions and chilies. Among the appetizers, the samosa chat adds a twist to the traditional Indian potato turnover, chopping it up and covering it with onions, a sweet-and-sour sauce and fried noodles. Try iddly Manchurian, fried rice patties in a ginger-garlic-soy sauce, or potato bonda, similar to a knish, which provides a great vehicle for sampling Woodlands’ assorted chutneys and addictive tamarind sauce. An ever-changing lunch buffet ($6.95) is a great way to sample the expansive menu. The minimal interior design might benefit from a little more investment, but any shortcomings in Woodlands’ decor are far outweighed by the exquisite and varied flavors that abound. 3415 West End Ave. 463-3005. 11:30 am-2:45 pm lunch, 5-10 pm dinner Tues.-Fri.; Sat.-Sun. 11:30 am-10 pm. $$-$$$

ITALIAN/GREEK/MEDITERRANEAN

ATHENS FAMILY RESTAURANT The all-American breakfast at this Franklin Road eatery, available until 2:30 p.m. daily, has earned a faithful following. In its sophomore year, the lunch and dinner menu has evolved from diner standards to an extensive selection of Greek specialties that one might find in a family-owned taberna, which is exactly the ambiance of the cheerful blue-and-white dining room that shows little evidence of its former fast-food tenant. The dishes are simple, flavorful, freshly prepared comfort foods using the staples of Greek cuisine: olive oil, lemons, garlic, olives, spinach, feta cheese, tomatoes, eggplant, grape leaves, oregano, parsley and rosemary. 2526 Franklin Rd. 383-2848 . Hours: 7 am-8 pm Mon.-Sat.; 8 am-2:30 pm Sun. 7 am-8 pm Mon.-Sat.; 8 am-2:30 pm Sun. $-$$

CORRIERI’S FORMAGGERIA This exquisite shop owned by chef Brett Corrieri in a vibrantly remodeled bungalow on a side street in 12South is indeed a cheese shop, but that’s like saying Tiffany’s is a jewelry store. Artisan cheeses thoughtfully selected by Corrieri dominate one of the cases in the front room; ask for a sample and not only will you receive a taste of cheese, you’ll get an education in cheese-making, geography and culture. The same goes for the imported Italian meats. In another case are salads, soups and sandwiches made that morning to enjoy cold or heated in the press; taking the gold medal is the 10K Lire (prosciutto costo, salame toscano, mortadella, copa, sopressata, provolone, mozzarella, spinach and peppadew peppers on a thick slice of focaccia drizzled with balsamic vinegar, olive oil, kosher salt, cracked black pepper and Italian seasonings. The parlor of the house bursts with an inventory of specialty grocery items, dried pastas, jarred goods—all beautifully packaged. In the rear are freezer cases with pastas and prepared entrées. Corrieri’s has quickly become the go-to place for harried hostesses—drop off a platter in the morning, pick up a masterpiece on the way home from the office, party guests will never know. Outdoor seating and a bocce ball court. 1100 Caruthers Ave. 385-9272. 11 am-7 pm Tues.-Sat. $-$$

NICK’S ITALIAN DELI Since 1989, Nick DeFilippis, wife Gina and brother-in-law Lou Levnjak have been serving fast, casual, family-style Italian food just south of downtown. Not only is it fast, it’s cheap: a mountain of spaghetti and meatballs, with Italian bread and a side salad, is $5.19, as are the baked ziti, stuffed shells, lasagna, and eggplant and chicken parmigiana. Best of all, Nick’s is darned good: the marinara is freshly made, with just the right balance of garlic, tomato, basil and oregano; the meatballs are firm and meaty, the ricotta creamy and the eggplant is not in the least bitter. Nick’s is also fun, with colorful Brooklyn-Italian insults bantered back and forth behind the counter. Several years ago, a second Nick’s was opened in Cool Springs, but it’s now under separate ownership. 508 5th Ave. S. 254-7210 . 10:30 am-4 pm Mon.-Fri. $

SAVARINO’S CUCINA Walk into Savarino’s Cucina and you can bet there will be a Savarino behind the counter, slicing meat and cheese, baking bread, making sandwiches or stirring a big pot of aromatic sauce. The cases filled with Italian pastries and cookies, cheeses and meats, olives and artichokes, and baskets of fresh-baked Italian bread are enough to bring tears to a paisan’s eyes. 2121 Belcourt Ave. 460-9878. Mon.-Sat. 8 am to 8 pm $$

VALENTINO’S An old-world Italian restaurant marking its 15th anniversary, Valentino’s often shows up on expense account reports submitted by music-bizzers, midtown bankers, health care execs and power-suited CEOs, who love the pampering they receive from the solicitous servers. New chef Paolo Tramontano, recently arrived from Naples, is said to be breathing vibrant life into a menu of predictable fare that fueled masters of the universe as they went about their business. Tramontano has foodie tongues wagging—some say salivating—with tales of his homemade salsiccia sausage, seafood, veal, pasta and creamy panna cotta. 1907 West End Ave. 327-0148. Lunch hours: 11 am-2 pm Mon.-Fri. Dinner hours: 5-10 pm Mon.-Sat. $$$-$$$$$

JAPANESE/KOREAN

SAMURAI SUSHI Without question the best sushi restaurant in Nashville. The first inkling that unpredictable treats are in store comes via a mundane source: the salad dressing, a light concoction of citrus, pineapple, carrots, a touch of mayonnaise, soy sauce and ginger. That inventiveness extends to other starters, especially the salmon/tuna tartare and the mussels dynamite specials, neither of which should be missed. Though all of owner Yun Choo’s sushi is fresh and well-prepared, it is the “World Special” rolls that are, well, otherworldly. His signature Choo Choo roll consists of broiled freshwater eel, crab and salmon rolled in rice and topped with avocado, sliced strawberries and crunchy pine nuts. The Crazy, Volcano, Dragon and Hawaiian Rolls are all equally innovative, the flavors so pleasurable that they may best be enjoyed with no condiment. The small prep area and complexity of Choo’s rolls can mean a longer wait time than at other sushi restaurants. 2209 Elliston Pl. 320-5438 . Lunch: 10 am-2 pm Mon.-Fri. Dinner: 5-10 pm Mon.-Sat. $$

TOFU HOUSE The first restaurant here that specializes in sundubu jjigae, a.k.a. tofu soup, and its polar opposite, NangMyun, Tofu House is the prettiest of the local Korean spots. A limited selection of banchan (small complimentary side dishes like kimchi and mung bean sprouts) comes after the appetizer and before the entrées. Tofu soup can be ordered alone, or for about $5 more, in combination with an entrée such as spicy chicken or beef bulgoki, shrimp and scallops, stir fried fish or fried mackerel. The soup is served in a stone bowl and brought still bubbling. NangMyun is an ethnic dining adventure of clear light broth so chilled that slivers of ice skim the surface of the liquid, in which buckwheat noodles tangle like the innards of a golf ball among unpeeled cucumber, beef and daikon radish. Also try octopus bibimbab; samgetang, chicken stuffed with rice and cooked in broth; and galbi, grilled short ribs in a subtly sweet marinade. Other entrées include chicken and beef bulgoki, pre-cut slices of marinated meat sometimes cooked by the diner on a table-top grill known as a bware, but more often brought already grilled from the kitchen and served with a plate of lettuce leaves rolled around the meat and eaten like a wrap. If none of your dishes come with stone pot rice, order one or two on the side. 1310 Antioch Pk. 781-2022. 11 am-2:30 pm Mon., Tues., Thurs., Sat.; Dinner 5-9:30 pm except Wednesday $$-$$$

MEAT-AND-THREE/SOUTHERN

BELLE MEADE CAFETERIA Though new owners purchased this Nashville institution a couple of years ago, not much has changed since Belle Meade Cafeteria opened its doors in 1961, including most of the menu, the staff, the decor and the method of operation. The selection of home-cooked regional favorites is huge, all prepared by employees who have logged more than two decades in the kitchen. The method of operation is what trips up first-timers: grab a tray, make your way through the cafeteria line, choose a beverage, get a check from the cashier—and then do not carry your tray any farther. A waiter or waitress will pick it up, follow you to your table and unload the tray. Have a gratuity ready, particularly if you anticipate needing refills on your sweet tea or another helping of mashed potatoes. 4534 Harding Rd. 298-5571. 11 am-8 pm Mon.-Sat.;10:30 am-8 pm Sun. $

ELLISTON PLACE SODA SHOP Little has changed at the Elliston Place Soda Shop—Nashville’s oldest continuously operating restaurant in the same location—since it was opened by Lynn Chandler in 1939. (He has since sold it.) The fountain and grill serve up a typical pharmacy/soda shop menu of breakfast, burgers and fries, sundaes, shakes and banana splits; the kitchen serves up a daily changing repast of meat-and-three. No smoking. 2111 Elliston Pl. 327-1090 . 6:30 am-7:30 pm daily. $

LOVELESS CAFE When he purchased the 53-year-old Loveless Cafe in November 2003, new owner Tom Morales faced a major challenge: how to preserve the history of a legend and honor the memories of generations of fans, while restoring faded glory and modernizing the infrastructure? The staples remain—country ham and eggs with red-eye gravy; sausage, bacon and steak; three-egg omelets; pancakes and waffles—and all seem to have a new lease on life. At dinner, meat-and-three classics lead the cast: the excellent skillet-fried chicken, rich chicken and dumplings, country ham dinner, and a meaty, moist meatloaf. Making sparkling debuts are the smokehouse platters, which include turkey, pork chops, ribs, pan-fried Bucksnort trout and barbecue shrimp in a big bowl of delectable grits soaked with a spicy red sauce. Save room for a slice of pastry chef Alisa Huntsman’s blue-ribbon pies, among them fresh berry, chocolate pecan, coconut cream and peanut butter. 8400 Highway 100. 646-9700. Winter hours: 7 am-9 pm daily. www.lovelesscafe.com. $-$$

MAYO’S MAHALIA JACKSON’S CHICKEN & FRIED PIES It’s not the chicken but the fried pies that have people from all over town driving to North Nashville just to find this modest storefront near Tennessee State University. Peach, apple and sweet potato pies folded in half-moons of flaky, sweet crust are blue-ribbon winners at a cost-cutter price of just $1.20 each. Also serving out of a mobile unit parked on Jefferson Street south of D.B. Todd Blvd. 2618 Buchanan St. 742-1899. 9 am-6 pm Mon.-Sat. $

ROTIER’S Four generations of Nashvillians have settled into the cozy booths of this family-owned, diner-style restaurant opened in 1945 by John and Evelyn Rotier. Not many places offer American cheese and crackers as an appetizer anymore, but Rotier’s does. Meat-and-three “Night Plates,” short orders from the fryer, and head lettuce salads are staples, but the most popular item remains the patty melt: a cheeseburger served either grilled or on French bread. Special mention goes to the best milkshake in Nashville. It’s the real deal, delivered icy-cold in the classic aluminum milkshake cup. 2413 Elliston Pl. 327-9892. 10:30 am-10 pm Mon.-Fri.; 9 am-10 pm Sat. $-$$

MIDDLE EASTERN

HOUSE OF KABOB This modestly outfitted Persian restaurant serves incredible food of a caliber equal to the finest haute cuisine restaurant, and is unique to Nashville. Jump right into this rich cultural experience with the kashk, sautéed eggplant and garlic topped with cream of whey; the piquant dolmeh, grape leaves stuffed with seasoned rice; the crispy falafel patties; and must-o-moosir, a dipping sauce of yogurt with sun-dried shallots. The beef, chicken, salmon and lamb kabobs are marinated, broiled just until the juices run, then served off the skewer on a plate of aromatic rice. 216 Thompson Ln. 333-3711. 11:30 am-9 Mon.-Sat.; closed Sunday. $-$$

KALAMATA’S There are countless surprises, delights and irresistible temptations awaiting customers who wander into the unassuming Green Hills strip-mall space occupied by Kalamata’s, which offers freshly prepared, healthy and classic Mediterranean and Middle Eastern foods with a modern twist. The tiny dine-in/take-out restaurant is huge on flavor, freshness and friendliness. That freshness extends to the hummus—which begins with dry (not canned) garbanzo beans—as well as the tabbouleh, baba ghanouj, stuffed grape leaves and the light, golden-crisped falafel. Appetizers include small stuffed pies filled with ground meat, spinach or sheep’s milk cheese. The pizzetas are flat pizza-like rounds topped with whatever strikes the chefs’ fancy that day; representative toppings might include olive oil, kalamata olives and fresh chopped herbs. Co-owner/chefs Maher Fawaz and Beth Collins will put most anything in a pita and call it a sandwich—chicken salad, Greek salad with grilled chicken strips, falafel, gyro meat or grilled, marinated vegetables—and that spirit of invention extends to everything else you’ll find here. Glendale Center, 3764 Hillsboro Rd. 383-8700. 11 am-8 pm Mon.-Thurs.; 11 am-9 pm Fri.-Sat. $-$$

PIZZA

PIZZA PERFECT Owned by wisecracking brothers Ali and Amir Arab, who have been making pizza in Nashville for 20 years, Pizza Perfect is not idle bragging, but pretty darned close to truth in advertising. Dough and sauce are homemade daily, pies are hand-tossed, toppings are fresh and plentiful. Puffy calzones, stuffed hot subs and baked pasta with a near-perfect tomato sauce round out the moderately priced menu. 1602 21st Ave. S. 329-2757. 10:30 am-midnight Mon.-Sat.; 11 am-11 pm Sun $-$$

PIZZA REAL More than a pizza parlor, not quite a full-service restaurant, Pizza Real is perched atop a hill overlooking the bustle of the Five Points drinking and dining district. Owner Paul Koumanelis is a Greek from Boston, but his pies are—as the name implies—the real thing when it comes to pizza. Just one size: the 14” plain is $11, or load it up with toppings for $1.50 each. Signature pizzas include the Pizza Spinache and the Tuscan Garden Pizza; Greek salad and a bruschetta-like appetizer called mezethakia round out the menu. Take out (no delivery) or eat in on the glassed-in patio or main dining room. Soft drinks, beer and wine. 203 N. 11th St. 226-2206. Noon-2 pm Mon.-Fri., 5-10:30 pm Mon. Sat. $$

PUBS & BARS

BATTER’D & FRIED BOSTON SEAFOOD HOUSE East Nashville booster Matt Charette has done a swell job transforming what was a Laundromat and a barbershop into a pub with family-friendly dining and a sporty bar. As the name of the restaurant implies, the menu leans heavily—some say too heavily—on the fryer, though the grouper tenders and French fries served in a paper sack are well worth their weight in oil. Unfortunately, some New England faves like steamers and lobster rolls are MIA, and the clam bellies are a tad peculiar. To his credit, Charette not only solicits customer feedback, he responds. In addition to a selection of grilled items, he also transformed part of hte dining room into Wave Sushi Bar, which serves a standard menu of rolls and nigiri, along with creative inspirations, such as the shiso plum roll—shrimp, lump crab, cucumber and shiso plum flakes. 1008 Woodland St. 226-9283. 10:45 am-10:30 pm Mon.-Fri.; 4:30-10:30 pm Sat. Sunday brunch begins at 11:00 am. $$-$$$

RED DOOR SALOON It’s a drinkin’ thing at the original midtown Red Door and its East Nashville sibling, Red Door East. These anti-fancy joints pay homage to PBR, Harleys, cigarettes and Jaegermeister—get with the program or get yer butt out. Serving lunch daily: customers can chow down on seven different types of steamed sandwiches, including a Reuben, a turkey Reuben, Red Door sub and veggie sub. 1816 Division St. 320-6525. 11 am-3 am Mon.-Thurs.; noon-3 am Fri.-Sun. 1010 Forrest Ave. 226-7660. 3 pm-3 am Mon.-Thurs.; noon-3 am Fri.-Sat. $-$$

YAZOO BREWING COMPANY In addition to its custom brewing business, the city’s newest craft brewery has four of its own beers: Amarillo Pale Ale, Spring Wheat, Dos Perros and Onward Stout. In the cozy taproom, customers can sample all of the brewery’s handcrafted offerings fresh from the taps in pints or 5-oz. samplers. Complementing the beers are small plates of artisan cheeses, fresh breads, chutney, fruits and nuts. Also available for purchase are freshly filled half-gallon bottles of beer to go, as well as logo T-shirts and glasses. Marathon Village, 1200 Clinton St. 320-0290. 4-8 pm Thurs.-Fri.; 2-6 pm Sat. $$

STEAKHOUSES

JIMMY KELLY’S One of the last bastions of Old Nashville still standing—and thriving—Jimmy Kelly’s is a throwback to the days before liquor by the drink, when the city’s better restaurants were essentially private clubs for the wealthy, well-born and well-connected. Still family-owned 75 years later—now by the founder’s grandson—and still a favorite watering hole for Nashville’s political powers, Jimmy Kelly’s holds its own against the city’s recent wave of national steakhouse upstarts with a veteran wait staff, a familiar menu and the absolutely addictive corn cakes. Proprietor Mike Kelly, who knows everybody in town, what they drink, how they like their meat cooked and all their secrets, is the affable master of his domain, always on site, always smiling. 217 Louise Ave. 329-4349. 5 pm-midnight Mon.-Sat. $$$$

THE PALM The Palm is a chain, but thanks in part to the local celebrities immortalized in caricature on the walls of every restaurant, each location absorbs the personality of the city it inhabits. Those same faces—along with aspirants to the wall of fame—show up in the bar and dining rooms, where deals are brokered over Gigi salad, 5-pound lobsters and bloody slabs of thick steak. Seventy-five years of experience are apparent at every turn, particularly in the irreproachable service. 140 5th Ave. S. 742-7256. 11 am-11 pm Mon.-Fri.; 5-10 pm Sat.-Sun. $$$$-$$$$$

THAI/VIETNAMESE

MISS SAIGON This ambience-free—but delicious—Vietnamese eatery is nestled in the shadow of a bygone Kroger, with a newer location in Cool Springs. Our favorite dishes include pho (traditional rice noodle soup), banh xeo (egg pancakes), goi cuon (vegetables, pork, shrimp and vermicelli wrapped in rice paper) and various noodle and rice dishes with a startling list of unusual proteins, including soft tendon and tripe. Vietnamese cuisine places a premium on fresh flavors of lime, mint, cilantro and basil, which accompany many dishes in bountiful green bunches. Try the fresh-squeezed lemonades and sweet, creamy coffees. But nonsmokers beware: while there is a designated smoking section, in a one-room establishment, really, what’s the point? 5849 Charlotte Pike 354-1351. 10 am-9 pm daily; closed on Tues. 1745 Galleria Blvd. 771-7848. $-$$

SIAM CAFE/SIAM CUISINE These two definitive Thai restaurants are owned and operated by the Silpacharns, one of two families responsible for the evolution of Thai food in Nashville. The 25-year-old Siam Cafe features one room with a steam table of rather pedestrian Asian buffet items, while the other room is a full-service restaurant serving specialties like pad Thai and massamun curry. It is decidedly less fancy, and less expensive, than its much younger offshoot, Siam Cuisine. The food isn’t notably any better at Cuisine, but it is more nicely presented, and there are more salads, appetizers and steamed seafood items on the menu. The pla lard prig (deep-fried whole red snapper) rules at Cafe, but at Cuisine, the exquisite steamed seafood curry gets the nod. Siam Cafe: 316 McCall St. 834-3181. 11 am-10 pm Mon.-Sat.; 5-9 pm Sun. Siam Cuisine: 265 White Bridge Rd. 354-0082. 11 am-2:30 pm, 4:30-10 pm Mon.-Fri.; 4:30-10 pm Sat.; 4:30-9 pm Sun. $$-$$$

WINE BARS

FLYTE WORLD DINING & WINE Flyte World Dining & Wine, which breaks uncharted dining destination ground at the edge of the Gulch, aims to present international wines in an educational yet accessible fashion. The multi-cultural menu includes intriguing soups and salads—including caramel apple, sweet and heat orange, macadamia nut and dried cherry, and grilled radicchio—also available in flights of three. Entrées feature roast chicken, filet mignon, pasta, fish and game. 718 Division St. 255-6200. Bar opens at 4:30 pm Tues.-Sat.; kitchen open 5-10 pm Tues. and Wed. and until 11 pm Thurs.-Sat. $$-$$$$

RUMOURS WINE & ART BAR Whitney Ferre, founder of the Creative Fitness Center on Linden Avenue, has teamed up with Christy Shuff, who opened the art gallery next door and neighboring 12th South Market and Deli. Chef Herman Borda offers a menu of simple, bistro-influenced dishes: the popular artisan cheese plate, olives, soup or salad of the day, several creatively executed entrées and a couple of desserts. The wine list, which changes with the season, has something for everyone; each selection is accompanied by a brief description, and the staff can provide helpful assistance. Part of Rumours’ appeal to its large contingent of 20- and 30-somethings seems to be its loosey-goosey approach—seat yourselves, feel free to move around, and count on your server to find you somewhere. 2304 12th Ave. S. 292-9400. 11 am-2 pm Tues.-Fri.; 5-12 am Tues.-Sat., wine and dessert until 11:30 pm. $$-$$$

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