For the Love of Cod, Miro's Fish Sandwich is Delicious

I've said it before and I'll say it again: the fish panini at Miro District is a catch. After my initial love affair with the triggerfish served on rosemary focaccia with watercress aioli, arugula, fried onion threads and a drizzle of olive oil, I equally enjoyed the fried cod sandwich at a recent lunch. Accented by housemade caper aioli, baby greens and shaved celery root tossed with aioli, whole-grain mustard, champagne vinegar and lemon juice, the cod sandwich was a study in textures and a triumph of construction.

With delicate fried fish that flaked apart into large white tiles like buttery dominoes, it would have been easy to mangle the sandwich by piling it on bread that was too tough. Too resistant a loaf would have required a chomp that would have smashed the sweet fish out the sides. But Miro's housemade focaccia was so ethereally light that it gave way easily to the moist fish and thin threads of crisp slaw. The sandwich held together, and each bite contained an element of fluffy bread, cool greens and warm cod dusted ever so slightly with semolina, flour, salt and pepper.

Miro's fish panini changes daily, depending on the catch of the day. The preparation and the accoutrements change as well, but the sandwich generally costs $14 to $15, arrives with housemade chips and, in my experience, is outstanding.

Located at 1922 Adelicia St. (phone: 320-1119), Miro District Food & Drink serves lunch and dinner Monday through Friday and dinner Saturday and Sunday.

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