First Bite: Trattoria Il Mulino

Technically, I suppose this should be titled, “First and Second Bites” because I first visited

for a media preview before the restaurant opened, and I’ve since visited again, sampling quite a few of the vegetarian and vegan options with other dining companions (who’ve mostly enjoyed the fish selections). This “casual chic” version of the original Il Mulino in New York City specializes in the cuisine of the Abruzzo region of Italy. That is, there’s a lot of bread, pasta and meat, but also an impressive selection of fish and pizzas as well as a raw bar and popular selections from Il Mulino’s menu.

On our first visit, we were greeted with a plate of eggplant caponata and a plate of charcuterie followed quickly by a bread server who offered whole wheat, Italian sourdough, garlic breadsticks and focaccia. Naturally, I tried all the breads, but the garlic sticks (which are also seasoned with red pepper) were my favorite. The caponata was delicious. My husband ordered the octopus as an appetizer and I had the burrata. My husband loved the octopus, but my burrata came without some much needed salt. Since this was pre-opening, I wouldn't let that stop you from trying it yourself.

For dinner, I had to have the porcini ravioli. I’d raved about the soup Trattoria Il Mulino served at Our Kids' Soup Sunday this year, and this is the dish that has the sauce that inspired the soup. The ravioli was rich and satisfying … and also $40. But the mushrooms were high-quality and the flavor of the champagne truffle sauce was incredible. Get extra bread to sop it up; do not let that plate go back to the kitchen with any drop left.

My husband had the branzino, a Mediterranean sea bass, and selected “marechiara” as the style. That’s the format of that portion of the menu; you choose a fish (or other seafood) to be grilled and then select how it will be served. Marechiara is a light tomato sauce similar to a bouillabaisse in that it is well-seasoned and includes seafood such as clams, shrimp, and mussels. My husband loved this dish. And at $35, this large plate was a bargain in comparison to some other items on the menu (and on other restaurants' menus).

On our first trip, we also sampled the funghi pizza (topped with well-chosen mushrooms for excellent flavor) and the fettucine with parmigiano cream sauce (deliciously eggy noodles and rich sauce). For dessert, I was blown away by the limoncello tiramisu, which was perfectly light and lemony but also very satisfying (and enough for two).

On our second visit, we dined with two other couples and we tried to branch out from the choices we made previously. I started with the roasted tomato, which is served with generous portions of fresh mozzarella, grilled zucchini and grilled eggplant (nicely done; I am picky about eggplant). It was a bit of a twist on a caprese, and I enjoyed it quite a bit. My husband ordered the meatballs, which were huge (definitely enough to share). Others enjoyed the octopus as well as the tuna tartare.

For dinner, I ordered pappardelle with the vegan lemon and shallot treatment, which ended up being too delicate for a thick pasta, but I think it would be excellent served as on the menu with penne (vegan and also gluten-free) or even with the fettucine. My husband had a fish special that was good, but not as impressive as the branzino marechiara.

For dessert, I decided not to take any chances and ordered the limoncello tiramisu. It may just be my favorite dessert in the city now. But I was also able to sample the flourless chocolate torte (not too fudgy or dense; lightened up with hazelnuts), the panna cotta (perfect with intense vanilla bean flavor), rice pudding (an oddity and not something I’d order again), and the amaretto cheesecake (Italian-style, which is very custardy).

The drinks are impressive as well. There’s a finely crafted cocktail menu (a favorite is the spicy sangria that’s heavy on ginger) and a robust wine list. The wines are curated by sommelier Jenn McCarthy, who was co-owner of Rumours wine bar. The restaurant also serves fine grappas and will soon be able to serve a variety of housemade grappas as well.

Aside from food and beverages, there are a few things to note about the restaurant. It's located in the Hilton directly across Fifth Avenue South from the Bridgestone Arena. On my first visit, there was a Predators game; on the second visit, a Kenny Chesney concert. So getting to the restaurant can be trying when there’s an event. The valet for the restaurant is complimentary, but it’s directly across from the main entrance to the arena, so the block can have slow traffic. Keep that in mind for reservations. The restaurant was also busy with concertgoers, but thinned out after about 8 p.m.

It is a hotel restaurant, so there’s a little something for everyone on the menu (PDF), but not a menu specifically for kids. Kids are welcome, but plan on paying full menu prices for their food. The atmosphere is casual and “lively,” and there are televisions in the bar area, so if you’re wanting a more quiet experience, be sure to request that via reservation (in the section furthest from the bar).

A final note: Trattoria Il Mulino is a bit of a destination restaurant because of the popularity of Il Mulino in New York. Other locations include Atlantic City and Disney World, as well as Il Mulino in Las Vegas and South Beach Miami, places where people visit and seek out memorable dining experiences. I’ve noticed through social media and my own observation that the Nashville location has already attracted quite a few savvy diners familiar with the flagship restaurant. That may not mean much to Nashvillians who now take world-class dining for granted, but it’s an interesting (to me, that is) testament to Nashville’s status to attract this brand to the city.