Wow, it seems like it's been
a long timesince we first shared the details of
5th and Taylor, Chef Daniel Lindley's new restaurant venture in Germantown. Fortunately, the wait is finally over because 5th and Taylor is officially open for business and hitting the ground running.
Last Monday, April 27, was the first official night of service, but they're still ramping up their service and finishing up what should become a very popular patio and outdoor bar. Don't be surprised if the cocktail, wine and beer list is still a little curtailed as they train their servers and bartenders on the new offerings. I've been told that there are a lot more bottles in the cellar waiting to be rolled out. That being said, the bar is prepared to mix up just about any cocktail, even if there are just three cocktails listed on the menu. (Curiously, they are numbered 2-4 and nobody was able to tell me what happened to No. 1.)
The spacious dining area is decorated with dramatic art, some from the collection of Chef Lindley, including several paintings created by the chef himself. A large statue of Revolutionary War hero Francis Nash, the namesake of our fair city, dominates the center of the dining room. The Quonset hut-like building has soaring ceilings and subdued romantic lighting, so bring your cheaters if you have trouble reading menus in low light.
The menu describes dishes by their ingredients, rather than by cooking technique, but questions to the waitstaff were answered quickly and correctly. Divided into Snacks, Appetizers, Salads, Entrees, Grilled Items, Other and Sides, the menu lists a tight roster of American fare. On my first visit, we managed to taste through a small portion of the offerings, but were impressed by everything we tried.
Three additions since the original announcement of the restaurant seem to be great developments for 5th and Taylor. Chef Andy Hayes came to the restaurant from Moto, and he seemed quite comfortable running the pass of the open kitchen. Pastry Chef Rachel De Jong was recruited from The Inn at Little Washington and has been gifted a large baking space. The macaroons and the strawberry pie we enjoyed for dessert seem to indicate she has fine control of her new kitchen.
The third aspect that distinguishes the kitchen at 5th and Taylor is the large wood-fired grill. Yeah, I know it seems like every new restaurant in town has added one of those (Husk, Adele's, Butchertown Hall, etc.), but Lindley had his custom-made by a Brazilian craftsman who knows how they are actually constructed and used in South America.
On top of the grill are two smoker boxes that allow the kitchen to add a little flavor to whole chickens that appear on the menu in various dishes. Most notable is the Beer Can Chicken, which arrives at the table with its sauce ready to be poured by the chef out of a PBR can in a dramatic flourish. A lovely Chicken and Dumplings dish also benefited from the smoky hen as well.
Other dishes I sampled were the Sausage-Cheddar Biscuits, Spring Onion Fritters, Bacon-Wrapped Quail and a sliced duck dish with baby carrots, turnips and a ramp glaze. (I then went directly to the Y.) Most of the entrees are served with creamy whipped mashed potatoes, because Chef Lindley loves them and thinks they are the perfect American starch. Although the pairing seemed weird alongside some of the menu items, after trying them, I can't say that I disagree with the chef.
I think the neighborhood will welcome just about everything about this new restaurant. They've even tried to mitigate the ever-worsening parking issues of Germantown with valet service and a small lot behind the restaurant. They're now accepting dinner reservations, available on Open Table or by calling the restaurant at 615-242-4747. If you manage to snag a coveted spot at the table and taste through more of the menu, please feel free to share your impressions in the comments, as always.
