Jay's Special at Degthai
If you’re anything like me, the idea of going out for Thai in Nashville conjures up images of narrow, homey dining rooms with wood paneling and knickknacks by the dozen. The menus are tight and well-defined, featuring noodle and curry standards with pictures that all seem to date back to about 2004. The employees are well-mannered and good-humored, but service is just decent. And the food, whether you’re in Brentwood or Berry Hill, is always good, but rarely is it great.
It can be hard to pick a standout from Nashville’s Thai options — something Degthai has sought to remedy since its founding in 2011. Starting life as a food truck, Degthai quickly established itself in Nashville’s crowded and ever-inventive market, offering up authentic, fiery Thai entrées. But it took a brick-and-mortar location for the owners to fully realize their vision of creating a true Nashville stalwart.
The secret to Degthai’s success is an open one. It doesn’t take a high-level gourmet — or an obscure Brentioch food writer — to note the freshness and vibrancy Degthai offers. It practically grabs you by the collar the moment you step into the restaurant: semi-open kitchen with chefs hard at work over cast-iron woks, tasteful murals soaring high over a spacious dining room, and eccentric road signs that appear to have been pilfered from Thailand’s Department of Highways. But more than that, you come to Degthai to eat, and eat you will — thanks to a rapid-fire kitchen that chugs along like a freight train through even the toughest lunch rush. Have no fear if the line looks long — you’ll have your food in no time.
Tiew Gang Vegan noodle soup at Degthai
Ordering at Degthai is like choosing a Mortal Kombat character. The selections are well-defined, the stats are all equal, and the bond you form with your primary choice is stronger than that of some marriages. For me, it’s the Tiew Gang Vegan, a supple, spicy and creamy coconut soup with crispy tofu, al dente instant noodles, and an orchard’s worth of fresh vegetables. As a betting man, I like its chances against any Vietnamese, Lao, Thai or Chinese noodle dish in Nashville. A close second is Jay’s Special, a chicken stir-fry that packs in sweet, salty and umami factors. And while I rarely order it, I’d be remiss to ignore the tom yum, a hot and sour noodle soup with gargantuan prawns and an intoxicatingly vibrant aroma of lemongrass and lime.
Most consider Nashville’s “true” traditional eatery to be the classic Southern soul-food establishment, which brings together people from various socioeconomic backgrounds for the sake of good eating. Think Bolton’s and Prince’s, or meat-and-threes like Arnold’s, Monell’s and the recently shuttered Dandgure’s. Degthai is a mold-breaker.
It’s a delight to see Degthai’s dining room packed with families, students, tourists and locals alike, all enjoying authentic and exceptional food from a country 9,000 miles away. While we decry the “woo girls,” pedal taverns and affordable-housing shortage of New Nashville, we can also enjoy some elements of our city’s rise to stardom. For better or for worse, Old Nashville is disappearing. Degthai, a spot that has stuck it out through Nashville’s boom and pandemic doldrums, makes the pill a bit less bitter.
