The Batter's Box
Few things go together like country songs and ice-cold beer. There’s also baseball and ice-cold beer, football and ice-cold beer, hot afternoons and ice-cold beer, good friends and ice-cold beer. The amber liquid flows freely in downtown Nashville, where tourists and locals can find all of the above for prices that vary dramatically.
Markets put a dollar amount on a transaction between a buyer and seller at a place and time. Wild variability across all four of these components has created an uneven beer market in Nashville, with prices varying more than 150 percent within a few blocks’ walk for the same glass bottle. For one hour on Friday, the per-ounce price of Miller High Life varies by 750 percent between Tootsie’s and one East Nashville neighborhood bar.
In a town where tourists warp the local bar-conomy, how much is too much to pay for a beer? Specifically, a cold domestic bearing the brand name of American brewers who have quenched generations regardless of race, class, creed or political persuasion. Like any self-respecting budget-haver, the Scene has a line, and this is how we drew it.
Legacy domestic brands offer an easy control group across which to compare prices. These include the full families of widely distributed major brewers — Miller, Budweiser, Coors — as well as Pabst Blue Ribbon and Busch. The inclusion of Busch, wholly owned by Budweiser’s parent company, may surprise some purists, but it is a regional favorite and perennial bestseller according to local bartenders. These options provide passable and consistent quality between establishments and make up most bars’ staple beer selection.
Standard 12-pack prices at a gas station “Beer Cave” inside the I-440 loop set baselines at $1.08 for a 12-ounce Miller High Life can and bottle; $1.25 for Bud Light and heavy; $1.45 for Miller Lite cans and bottles; and $1.50 for Coors Light and Banquet. Prices reward scale, with 16-ounce PBR and Busch tall boys working out to $1.35 each in a six-pack. Over in the fridge, a 32-ounce can of Miller High Life runs $2.79, the best per-ounce deal in the city verified by Scene reporting. Consider anything on top of these prices as the “social markup” charged by a bar that competes on ambience, entertainment, food and community.
"Recession Special" at Robert's Western World
From our research, only iconic Broadway honky-tonk Robert’s Western World offers cold $2.50 domestics all day, every day. The selection is limited to Busch, Busch Light, Miller High Life and PBR. Coors (Light and Banquet), Budweiser and Miller Lite jump to $8 here, a price that lands between neighbors The Stage ($7 all domestics) and Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge ($9 all domestics). Across the street, Nudie’s advertises its own $6 “Basic Brew” deal, which includes all the standard labels. Even the Four Seasons bar, which prices Jack Daniel’s pours at $16 and domestic bottles at $8, stays within this range.
If you’re going out, the Robert’s deal ranks as the best in the city. The famous “Recession Special” ($6) pairs a PBR with a thick-cut fried bologna sandwich, chips and a MoonPie, a special honed by the market over decades.
“We sell thousands a night,” one server tells the Scene during a packed Friday lunch hour. “I’ve been here 15 years — some of the staff has been here for decades. We don’t have turnover, and the place stays full.”
Broadway’s $6 to $9 range mirrors the small but bustling pocket of Midtown bars like Red Door Saloon ($7) and the various bars within the Division Street labyrinth of Losers, Winners and Riley Green’s Duck Blind ($8).
Real deals come with scale, timing and humility. Long-standing dive bars price within a second range, somewhere between $3 and $4.50. Outside of Robert’s, downtown’s cheapest cold bottle might be at The Batter’s Box on Hermitage Avenue. Domestics start at $3.25 for a can of PBR all day; shell out another 25 cents for Coors, Miller and Budweiser bottles, or $3.75 for a Bud Light on draft.
“We raised prices a quarter across the board a few months ago,” says Laura, the affable Batter’s Box bartender who serves a full cast of regulars. “Got to keep up with the times.”
Institutions Brown’s Diner and The Villager Tavern both keep prices in that range. Before 7 p.m., The Villager sells draft pitchers for $10 and Miller High Life for $2.50 — the only price-match to Robert’s found by the Scene. Brown’s drops draft prices by $1 during happy hour, which runs weekdays from 3 to 5 p.m. Across town, Schulman’s sells 40 ounces of Miller High Life for $4 for one hour on Friday afternoon, giving the new Porter Road bar the unique distinction of the cheapest American domestic per-ounce during that brief window.
These two ranges set up a clear dividing point at $5. Pay more and you’re paying the tourist premium sold to out-of-towners who want a big night in Music City. Stay under $5, and you’re in good company, as long as you don’t stay home.
Cheap, cold beer, puddin’ shots, mocktails and our thoughts on Nashville’s newest bars
