My first time at Taquería la Juquilita was a bit of a clownshow. I only understood half the menu, so I asked a regular to order me what he was having because I am that jackass. For the rest, we played menu roulette. Everything was flavorful and filling, but the standout was the tlayuda ($10), a sort of Mexican pizza that bears no resemblance to the fast-food version you slammed in college. An oversized homemade tortilla is crisped on a griddle and topped with refried black beans, meat, Oaxacan cheese, pico, cabbage, avocado and crema. It’s like a giant nacho — it doesn’t even all fit on the plate. Their fiery green hot sauce is the perfect complement.
The dish my reluctant amigo ordered for me (an $8 plate of meat, rice, mole and a fried egg) turned out to be a daily special, which is unfortunate for recommendations but taught me two things: 1) Always order the special, and 2) what real mole tastes like — rich and smoky with a sweet burn that keeps you coming back for more. The lengua (beef tongue) tacos are a steal at $1.25, as are the $3 gorditas, sopes and empanadas, which are embarrassingly huge — two fill up a dinner plate. On the way out, grab a bag of duros (like chicharrónes but pinwheel-shaped and made of wheat). With a dash of Valentina, they’re an unbeatable midnight snack.
