When I moved from East Nashville to Old Hickory, I gave up my proximity to staples like Margot, Mas Tacos and Fat Mo’s. Nothing against Dairy Queen, but I’d consider my new locale a bit of a culinary desert, and driving 20 minutes to eat at Phat Bites in Donelson is usually my best bet if I’m in the mood for something that isn’t scattered, smothered and covered. But the days of slim pickin’s in my neck of the woods are over, my friends. Nadeen’s Hermitage Haven is housed in an unassuming former fast-food restaurant on Lebanon Road, which gives it a lived-in midcentury quirkiness. Nadeen’s features elevated diner food as well as an all-day breakfast menu that includes people-pleasing favorites like chicken-and-waffles with fresh berries and Frothy Monkey coffee. But it’s the Brunswick stew that has become my favorite cold-weather meal. Its mixture of smoky pork and hearty veggies is creamy-smooth, and you can get a cup or a bowl topped with fresh greens or nutty roasted Brussels sprouts, depending on what’s available. Either way, you’re in for a treat — I’ve yet to try anything at Nadeen’s that I wouldn’t order again, and I always walk away feeling full but not heavy. It really is a haven. New Hermitage, here we come.
