Booze Hound: Ruse by Rose at Cumberland Bar

You can pick only two: Do you want it done fast, cheap or well? I had a manager who used to ask clients that question to illustrate that you can’t have it all, and I thought of the expression recently in an odd place — the lobby bar at the JW Marriott. In a town where preciously crafted cocktails routinely take 10 minutes to make, I wanted a cold one in my hand fast, and for the price of $16, they delivered.

The cocktail in question is the Cumberland Bar’s Ruse by Rose, a lovely, far-too-drinkable pink thing that starts with Ketel One Botanical Grapefruit and Rose Vodka. Because I am basic, I’ve considered buying this vodka a billion times but never pulled the trigger because it sounds just a skosh too millenial to be any good. Wrong: It’s fruity and tart and only lightly floral, which means it can take on strong flavors like the fresh lime, grapefruit and Aperol used here to give the drink a bitter backbone.

The most interesting ingredient is Chareau Aloe Liqueur, an uber-California spirit made from aloe vera juice, cucumber, muskmelon and lemon peel. Typically, I don’t drink anything that sounds like it would be better slathered on a sunburn (I’m looking at you, coconut), but this subtle spirit simply smooths all the flavors out into a clean, vegetal finish. Pro tip: If you valet (and if you’re just having one), the bar can’t validate, but the coffee shop can.