Early last year, I introduced y’all to Hard Truth Distilling Co., a whiskey distillery in the other Nashville (the one in Indiana). At the time, I was really impressed by some of their rye whiskey products — it was unusual that they were made using a sweet mash process that has become increasingly rare in the industry. And while the rye continues to be excellent, to be honest, a lot of us were waiting for their bourbons to come out before really passing judgment.
While everyone waited, Hard Truth faced the ... well, hard truth that it would be years after opening before their own juice would be fit for release, because making good whiskey takes time. In the meantime, they did what a lot of young distilleries do, which is concentrate on flavored products while waiting for oak barrels to flavor their whiskeys. I’ve sampled their Cinnamon Vodka, Toasted Coconut Rum and Maple Bourbon Cream, and while delicious, those aren’t the sorts of products I hunt out.
Finally, the time has come, with the release of its first bourbons produced grain-to-glass on the 325-acre campus. The trio of unusual products also comprises sweet mash whiskeys, which means the distillers don’t reintroduce fermented mash from previous batches to start a new batch of fermentation, the traditional “sour mash” process.
Hard Truth has also chosen some novel mash bills for two of its new releases: a wheated bourbon with 69 percent corn, 19 percent wheat and 12 percent malted barley in the recipe, as well as a four-grain bourbon made using all four of the primary grains used in American whiskey (corn, rye, wheat and barley). Their Sweet Mash Bourbon features a more traditional (albeit high-rye) mash bill of 73 percent corn, 19 percent rye and 8 percent malted barley.
First in my snifter was the Sweet Mash Bourbon, bottled at 90 proof. I’m guessing all three of these bourbons are probably in the 4- to 6-year-old range, but the nose of the Sweet Mash belied the relative youth of the spirit. I didn’t notice many grainy notes that are often present when the oak of the barrels hasn’t had enough years to contribute woody and vanillin elements to the whiskey. Instead, there are nice marzipan, toffee and vanilla aromas, and the first taste was light on the tongue. Those same flavors were apparent on the palate with just a little lingering heat. The finish was relatively abrupt with a slightly muddled nutty finish that settled into a surprising and nice citrusy final note. All in all, a solid first effort in the $45 price range.
Next up was the wheater. People who prefer wheated whiskeys love to tell you about it and why it’s the best. Weller and Maker’s Mark fans are the intermediate-fasting/Peloton/Pilates people of the whiskey world, but I have friends who like all of those things. While I prefer a Wheat Thin over a rye cracker, I’ve never gone out of my way to seek high-wheat bourbons. Since the Wheated Bourbon and the Four-Grain Bourbons from Hard Truth are both bottled-in-bond at 100 proof, you’d expect that the aromas and flavors would be amplified, and they were, for good and bad.
The nose of the wheater started out with a less appealing first impression than the Sweet Mash. The graininess was there along with the sort of slightly “headsy” light esters that tend to dominate bourbons early in their lifespans. Maybe time will help to dull that in the future. The unpleasant notes did fade after a little time in a snifter, revealing some hidden buttery white chocolate aromas that I would hope would develop more with a little longer in the barrel. It opened up nicely on the tongue and offered flavors reminiscent of Hershey’s syrup, toffee, toasted bread and soft spices.
The proof did provide a little extra heat, and the thin mouthfeel didn't allow the flavors I preferred to coat the palate like I hoped, but it wasn’t unpleasant. In a trick I learned from a real pro, I revisited the aromas in the empty glass after the initial esters had evaporated to discover some really nice notes of oak, cedar and toasted cacao. I know it’s weird to say, but I think I might have actually preferred the empty glass over the full one. I’m hoping that’s another taste of the future of what this whiskey may become going forward, because the finish reveals the essence of the liquid, and I’m sure your local Maker’s Mark devotee would say it’s already perfect. I guess it takes all kinds. ...
Finally, the most novel of them all, the Four-Grain Bourbon. I thought this one was pretty remarkable right off the bat, offering up chocolate brownies, brown butter, toffee and vanilla on the first pleasurable sniff. My initial sip surprised me with a jammy character, complexity almost as if it had already been finished in port casks, even though I knew that wasn’t the case. After the rich flavor subsided, it revealed more traditional oak, vanilla and corn character. I came away thinking that this whiskey, and this distillery, are making tremendous progress and could evolve into long-term favorites.
The Wheated Bourbon should retail around $50 a bottle, with the Four-Grain closer to $60. Nashville (Tenn.) is one of the limited markets outside of the distillery where you’ll be able to find these products, so keep an eye out!
Photo via Franklin Whiskey Warmer
In other whiskey news, if you’re looking to taste a lot of great spirits in one sitting (well, standing), the Scene is among the presenters of the Franklin Whiskey Warmer in Westhaven at the Skube Swim Center on Saturday, April 6, from 6 to 9 p.m. VIP-level tickets allow access to the festivities an hour earlier.
The event benefits The Westhaven Foundation, which contributes to philanthropic efforts across Williamson County. During the Winter Warmer, guests will enjoy samples from two dozen regional and national distilleries along with food trucks, fire pits and live music. Sounds like a fun way to spend a Saturday night to me! Get your tickets soon before it sells out.
