The building at 1500 Gallatin Pike S. in Madison may house the most exciting trio of restaurants in town. The most recent addition to the site is Vega Shawarma, joining the relocated Shotgun Willie’s BBQ and the latest iteration of Daddy’s Dogs, making it a worthwhile trip to the far north of Gallatin.
Vega is the latest concept from Hrant and Elizabeth Arakelian, longtime restaurant pros in town who have been delighting diners since their days working for Deb Paquette at Zola. Their first solo restaurant project was Lyra, a Middle Eastern revelation in East Nashville's Greenwood neighborhood.
Eagle-eyed customers might notice a small star in the “a” of Vega’s logo — Vega is indeed the brightest star in the constellation Lyra, a fun little astronomical Easter egg. The dining space is about as attractive as you could hope for in a strip-mall location. Hrant and Liz have painted the walls in pale greens and creams to soften the exposed ductwork and girders, and hanging rattan light fixtures complete the cozy vibe.
Ordering at the counter allows staff to explain daily specials and maybe encourage diners to look beyond the expected chicken and beef shawarma offerings. (But I did try both of them, and they were excellent. The carved meats were moist and delicious, and the aggressively pickled vegetables added a nice bit of punch to the party.)
I didn’t order the special because I didn’t want you all to be disappointed if you couldn’t try it on your next visit. But what I did order was indeed quite special! On Liz’s recommendation, I went with the lamb arayes, a spiced ground lamb patty in a fresh pita accompanied by mint and pickled red onion and served with a house-made harissa labneh for dipping.
Could Vega's lamb arayes be the best burger in Nashville?
Admittedly, it’s hard to make such a simple dish look spectacular. I mean, it’s basically a lamb burger in a pita pocket. But y’all, it might just have been the best burger I’ve eaten all year! The lamb was crispy without being at all dry. The entire concoction had been griddled like a proper smashburger, and the aromas it gave off as I hungrily ripped open the paper that cradled it were intoxicating.
The very slight gaminess of the lamb served as the backbone for the spice blend, and the sharp pickled onions cut through any bit of fattiness. Combined, it was the perfect bite that I only wish I’d taken more time to savor. But I’ll definitely be back, and that arayes will be mine again soon!
Another fun discovery for me was that in addition to beer, Vega offers a nonalcoholic malt beverage called Barbican. Originally brewed for the Middle Eastern market by the British imperialists at Bass Brewery, it is now made by a division of Coca-Cola at plants in Saudi Arabia and Dubai. Certified halal and nonalcoholic so the Muslim world can enjoy it, Barbican comes in several flavors. I opted for the apple, and the subtle sweetness of the malted barley and the crisp apple flavors made it a delightful accompaniment for the meal. There are other options on offer at Vega, so you can figure out your own pairings.
But most of all, go to Vega! Business has been a little slow to pick up, but Liz said it’s hard to judge because service is so quick — many people take a shawarma to go or pound it down at a table in 10 minutes. Sometimes it can feel like the dining room is empty when in actuality they’re just turning their customers very efficiently.
Take advantage of that quick service to maybe drive an extra couple of minutes north for a sandwich or a salad that are unlike anything else in Nashville. Also, treat yourself to a slice of sweet pistachio baklava to enjoy later. You won’t be disappointed!
