Whenever a group of Nashville food aficionados get together to discuss what they’d like to see upcoming restaurants, “high-end Asian food” is inevitably a prime item on the list. As someone who lived in the Bay Area for a few years, I’ve definitely experienced that sort of longing. That’s why I was excited to hear last year that Rockit Ranch Productions had partnered with Fresh Hospitality to open a new project in the former home of Cantina Laredo at 592 12th Ave. S. in the Gulch. If you’ve recently strolled past the corner of 11th and 12th (only in Nashville!), you’ve probably noticed the construction going on in the space.
The new restaurant will be an outpost of Sunda, the wildly popular Chicago Asian emporium that is the jewel of the Rockit Ranch crown. “After decades of extensive culinary and culture-immersed travel throughout Southeast Asia, as well as inspiring success in Chicago with a team of top talent, we are so excited to extend our passion to new markets,” says Billy Dec, CEO of Rockit Ranch. “As part of our active plans for growth, my partners and I will continue to seek out new and exciting markets like Nashville in which to share the vibrant and diverse spirit of our Chicago-based Rockit Ranch concepts.”
I got the opportunity to sit down with Dec over some noodles at Thai Esane recently, and I discovered that his enthusiasm for the project goes far beyond the press release. Unlike other out-of-towners who fly over and pitch a restaurant out of their private jets, Dec has actually bought a house in Nashville and is researching schools for his kids. He has also brought his A-Team staff from Chicago to open and operate the new venture, including Mike Morales, the current chef de cuisine and partner at Sunda’s Chicago location, who will serve as the new venue’s executive chef and partner in Nashville.
Dec says he fell in love with Nashville during a visit six or seven years ago and has been looking for the perfect opportunity ever since. After initial plans to build a restaurant from scratch, he was introduced to the team at Fresh Hospitality, who have developed into important partners and mentors as he expands his business. When he saw the Gulch space, he says he knew it was the right place for Sunda. “I love [that] the space comingles with both residential and commercial. It reminds me of River North in 2007,” referring to the bustling Chicago neighborhood where Rockit Ranch has developed an empire that includes restaurants, bars and night clubs.
Of all his properties, Sunda is Dec’s primary focus. “It’s like my favorite child,” he says. “It represents my family, specifically my Filipino culture.” When asked about whether Nashville could expect next-level sushi at Sunda, Dec notes, “If you can get great sushi in Chicago, you can get it anywhere! People are demanding incredible quality in this town, and we’re going to give it to them.”
The menu will feature pan-Asian cuisine, and Dec thinks Nashville wants it and is ready for it. “The demand is here for foreign flavors. We’re going to come strong, because that’s who we are. I think Nashville will enjoy the diversity of the menu, and we’ll also focus on the hospitality side of the experience. We want you to feel like a guest in our house. We want you to feel comfortable enough to experience new things.”
Dec has spent much of his life traveling around Asia to discover the foods and culture of the region, and he really wants to dive into the Philippines as a personal interest. While the cuisine will feature high-end ingredients, the prices won’t all be stratospheric. “It’s not all necessarily high-end,” explains Dec. “We want the experience to be realistic to Southeast Asia, where you can spend a lot of money on a really special dining experience, but you can also live out of a backpack and eat street food.”
The decor will be minimalist with clean lines, but also feature intricate wood carvings. Dec describes the cuisine and vibe as “modernized elevated Asian,” and promises a menu that will be roughly one-third Japanese and one-third Chinese, and the remainder spread around a mix of Southeast Asian cuisines. Code inspectors willing, Sunda plans to open some time in April. It certainly sounds like something to look forward to!
Billy Dec frightens Hoda and Regis on the Today show.
