We've known for a while now that Atlanta-based chef Ford Fry was planning to open several restaurant/bar concepts in an old masonry building set near the banks of the Cumberland, ostensibly on Adams Street. In the summer, our friends over at the Nashville Post shared the news of the mixed-use projects in the area known under the new name Hammer Mill, which was previously tucked away down a gravel road. Adams will now connect to Taylor Street to facilitate access. If you were playing across the river at TopGolf and really hooked a rocket drive, you could probably break a window at the new restaurants. (OK, maybe not really.)
So we finally now know the details of Chef Fry’s new concepts, which are his first ventures outside of Atlanta and his hometown of Houston, where he operates close to a dozen restaurants total. His three new operations will be separate but connected, and each will have its own unique concept and inspiration. The jewel in the crown will undoubtedly be Sea Wolf, which Fry describes as “mostly seafood.” If you’ve ever visited Fry’s seafood-centric Atlanta restaurant The Optimist, this news should really get you excited.
That award-winning Atlanta eatery is split into two sections: a raw bar surrounded by lucky patrons enjoying oysters and other quick grilled seafood items, and the main dining room, with its more extensive menu of oceanic proteins. Fry describes The Optimist as a "seaside fish camp experience,” and refers to Sea Wolf as its sibling restaurant with a more “dockside feel,” perhaps a little more casual. Fry is big on simple preparations so his kitchen can keep up with the demand for small plates from the raw bar and wood-fired grills, so don’t expect to see any tweezers used to create twee little works of culinary art. Instead, count on soulful, New England-inspired recipes featuring the freshest seafood that Fry can source.
He plans to offer complementary (but not complimentary) cocktails to accompany his plates, as well as a large outdoor patio area with some casual games to play while you wait for a table or hang around after dinner. Expect Sea Wolf to open sometime late this summer.
The second project will open at the same time upstairs from Sea Wolf. Fry hopes that guests will transition from dockside dining to vintage leather chairs by the fire at Le Loup, a luxurious lounge with a French feel and extravagant cocktails. While Le Loup will not offer the full menu from downstairs, Fry & Co. do plan to serve oysters and perhaps some cold seafood platters. Eduardo Porto Carreiro is the beverage director over the Ford empire, and he's already hard at work coming up with some unique cocktails to feature at Le Loup.
The third leg of the Hammer Mill stool takes a sharp left turn thematically, but if you know Ford Fry, it makes sense. In addition to being a noted chef and restaurateur, Fry is a huge music fan who also plays in a band and has what is described as “an insane guitar collection.” He’s bringing that passion to the forefront at Star Rover, a music listening room serving taqueria-style snacks, with plans to book local bands.
Fry intends to maintain a dual focus on the music and the food — the former inspired by his love of Muscle Shoals music and the Nashville Sound, and the latter offering up shareable snacks such as salsas, guacamole, queso, tostadas and fresh ceviche. The bar will serve up unfussy fare like whiskey- and mezcal-based cocktails, craft beers on draft and a seasonal boilermaker special. Fry also promises that his house margarita will absolutely kick ass, and we’re gonna hold him to that!
The space will offer both indoor and outdoor seating options, and music will flow throughout the bar and patio. Above all else, Fry wants all three of these upcoming projects to be fun experiences to introduce his brand to Music City. Is it too late to build another bridge across the Cumberland to connect up with TopGolf?
