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Oscar’s Taco Shops are uniformly low-key, adorned with little more than booths and beverage machines. But the simple space has an unexpected warmth around lunchtime, when the eclectic line of men in business suits and moms with kids snakes through the crowded room and diners good-naturedly clear their tables to make room for the next round of patrons. As the name implies, tacos are the standouts, including beef, fish and shrimp, but some folks seek out Oscar’s for the breakfast burritos, reputed to be among the best this side of Austin.

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