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Ninki, the Japanese character denoting “popular” or “famous,” is scrawled in dramatic oversized calligraphy behind the sushi bar, where silver-skinned fish the size of boogie boards compete for attention with a bubbling aquarium of live lobsters. Owner Ken Kang effected an impressive transformation of the Belle Meade Plaza storefront that formerly housed the Gallery of Belle Meade. The Harding Pike store is Kang’s third restaurant, after Sakura Blue in Louisville and a smaller 5-year-old Ninki Japanese Steakhouse and Sushi in Owensboro, Ky.

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