Muscle Memory 

Small Wonders: Food and Drink Issue 2013

Small Wonders: Food and Drink Issue 2013
click to enlarge MICHAEL W. BUNCH
  • Michael W. Bunch

Pork and shrimp dumplings, Lockeland Table

Lockeland Table's pork and shrimp dumplings feature a delectable blend of ground shrimp and pork mixed with ginger, garlic and other spices. With their open tops — more like shumai than standard sealed dumplings — they're tiny little gift bags of gustatory delight, topped with fresh cilantro. Served with Lockeland's "ninja" sauce, a sweet and spicy blend akin to a Thai chili sauce. —JS

click to enlarge MICHAEL W. BUNCH
  • Michael W. Bunch

Liver mousse, Café Fundamental

Some days it's from a duck, some days from a chicken, but Chef Jamie Watson's liver mousse du jour is always a seductive study in contrasts. Laced with cognac, Alsatian white wine and heavy cream, and served with house-made croutons, tomato coulis and Dijon mustard, the appetizer delivers an elegant balance of flavors and textures — crisp and custardy, airy and earthen. —CF

click to enlarge MICHAEL W. BUNCH
  • Michael W. Bunch

Haemul pajeon, Korea House

The haemul pajeon —that's Korean for "seafood pancake" — is more like a pizza-sized inside-out fritter than anything your local "pantry" might stock. Folks should be lining up around the block for Korea House's rendition of the peninsular staple: a tangle of green onions and seafood suspended in a crispy-edged disk ready for dunking in a salty, tangy sauce. —SH

Honorable Mentions:

Squid salad, Siam;
hot chicken bites, The Stone Fox,
frog legs, Riviera

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