Midtown buffet Jerusalem promises a fresh bounty of Middle Eastern flavors
by Carrington Fox
After harboring a string of short-lived restaurants that served everything from beef stew to pizza and chicken tikka masala, the midtown storefront at 1805 Church St. has finally found a tenant and a dining repertoire that could have staying power. Early reports from Jerusalem restaurant, which serves a sprawling menu of Middle Eastern delights—including a weekday lunch buffet—have been unusually enthusiastic. Jerusalem may not turn the familiar cuisine of falafel, kebabs, gyros and halal meats on its head, but the restaurant delivers a package of service, freshness and value that stands above much of the competition.
Jerusalem, Israel, native Jihad "Jeff" Abuhmoud moved from New Jersey this fall and opened Jerusalem the restaurant in October. He made a few interior alterations, the main one being an indulgent mural of a desert sunset with camels, donkeys and farmers painted onto the long wall. The result is a clean, comfortable and relaxing environment where the focus is squarely on the food.
It just takes a single circuit around the buffet table to get the impression that Abuhmoud puts a premium on freshness. During our three visits, trays of hot, plump baked chicken emerged frequently from the kitchen, and a pan of colorful roasted vegetables brimmed with carrots, onions, broccoli, mushrooms, eggplant, cauliflower, potatoes and red peppers, all bearing caramelized edges and a deep sweetness that results from patient roasting.
The buffet was consistently loaded with meat and vegetarian dishes, with slight variations between visits. Among the rotating array, we enjoyed the baked chicken, marinated with spices and garlic that penetrated the meat with a subtle, salty flavor. Two varieties of kifta were on the table on one visit, including a blend of ground lamb and beef formed into small fingerlings and served in a deep-red broth of tomatoes and spices. The other was a lighter version made with small beef meatballs in a tomato sauce thickened by the addition of pureed sweet onions. Both versions paired nicely with the fluffy piles of yellow basmati rice, which soaked up the flavorful sauces.
Vegetarians will revel in the meatless dishes and salads that abound at Jerusalem. Lentil soup, falafel, hummus, basmati rice and fluffy swatches of stretchy flatbread offer plenty of variety, flavor and bulk.
Okra and stewed tomatoes provided a piquant contrast to the many temperate dishes on the buffet. With slow, subtle heat peppering the red-and-green medley, the dish added a welcome kick to the earthy fragrances of cumin and turmeric that weaved through many of the offerings. The only dish we found disappointing was the chicken soup, whose thick yellow broth lacked flavor and whose noodles were mushy. (And the falafel, made from a heavy mixture of chickpeas with little or no herbs, was thicker and gummier than we like, but that could have been a consequence of extended time on the buffet.)
If you can lash yourself to the mast long enough to escape the all-you-can-eat siren's song of the $7.99 buffet, your patience will be rewarded with the menu offerings and table service.
In addition to the standard Middle Eastern kebabs, shawarma, falafel and kibbeh (fried balls of ground beef with spices, nuts and onions), Jerusalem serves elegantly simple platters of lamb chops and quail.
Five delicate lollipops of lamb were flavored with dark grill marks and a smoky tinge, which gave way to tender meat. While we would have preferred our lamb cooked a bit less throughly, the gray meat was still juicy and flavorful. A welcome departure from predictable falafel-shop fare was the platter of three quail, marinated in garlic and lemon juice and roasted to a golden brown. The trio of tiny birds arrived on a nest of yellow rice, dotted by plump roasted grape tomatoes, sections of onion and flakes of fresh parsley.
Neither the lamb, quail nor the chicken gyro platter (also served on basmati with tomatoes and onions) came with a sauce, an omission we found surprising, since so much local Middle Eastern food is plated with a blend of cucumbers and yogurt for dipping. When we asked about sauces, Abuhmoud graciously delivered a bowl of thick balsamic vinaigrette and an entire lemon cut in half as accompaniment for the quail. In the end, the birds were flavorful and moist enough not to need the embellishment.
In addition, Abuhmoud brought a bowl of thick yogurt sauce with faint hints of cucumber and mint and an overwhelming flavor of garlic, which he suggested for the chicken. Much thicker than traditional tzatziki, this zesty dip is actually called cucumber-yogurt salad on the menu and is served with flatbread. Our table agreed the intensity of the garlic drowned out the flavor of the tender chicken and lamb. On the other hand, the slightly curdled texture and pungent sting were an addictive pairing with the fresh locally baked flatbread, and we devoured the entire bowl.
While it's hard to forgo the bounty on the steam table, especially if you're so hungry you'd like to start eating immediately, ordering off the menu offers a very generous experience. After placing our order, we were surprised and delighted when our server returned quickly with a tray piled with bowls of hummus and cucumber-tomato salad and a basket overflowing with oven-pocked flatbread. Jerusalem's homemade hummus is very creamy, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with a confetti of chopped parsley. A highlight of the meal was the mix of finely diced tomatoes, cucumber and parsley in a simple dressing of olive oil and lemon. While we had sampled this fresh medley from the buffet, we had considered it little more than a garnish—like a side of salsa—until it was delivered in much greater volume as an appetizer, which, along with the hummus and bread, was almost a meal in itself.
Like everything else, the traditional Middle Eastern desserts are made in-house. The buffet includes an endless supply of syrup-soaked baklava made with a soft puree of walnuts. From the menu, we enjoyed the warbat—a large triangular pastry stuffed with thick cream, like a blintz made with phyllo—and the pretty ma'mouls—crumbly date-stuffed cookies reminiscent of Fig Newtons.
In its early days, Jerusalem has made a strong first impression, with its comfortable dining room, fresh food, friendly service and good value. If Abuhmoud can continue to deliver this level of quality at the midtown location, there should be plenty of promise in its future.
Jerusalem serves lunch and dinner seven days a week. The lunch buffet is available 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday.
Comments (3)
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I've went to this place recently and I have to say it won't be there long. I will certainly give it another chance, but the waiter I had was incompetent. I even pointed to the menu item I wanted and he still gave me the wrong thing! The food was good mostly, but I definately wasn't a fan of their rice. That's a dish that definately needs to change. The lamb was excellent though - perfectly seared and delicious! Hummas wasn't bad either.
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I've been trying to figure out their hours. Their web doesn't say, and your "lunch and dinner" makes me wonder if they are open through the afternoon or only 11-2 and 5-? hours.
i ATE HERE THE OTHER NIGHT AND EVERYTHING WAS DELICIOUS. THEY ARE OPEN FROM 10 AM TO 10 PM LUNCH AND DINNER. WHEN YOU HAVE AN ISSUE WITH THE WAITER OR WAITRESS YOU SHOULD TALK TO THE MANAGER DIRECTLY SO AS TO LET HIM KNOW THE PROBLEM AND HE CAN ADDRESS HIS STAFF. THE FOOD IS ALWAYS FRESH AND JEFF THE OWNER PROMISES TO BRING IN HOOKAH AFTER 8PM IN THE NEW YEAR. LOVE LOVE THIS PLACE!
