Meat and Greet 

Neighborhood market expands to include lunch menu

Neighborhood market expands to include lunch menu

Green Hills Meat Market & Cafe

4004 Granny White Pk. 383-7242

Hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Mon-Fri.; 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Sat.

Starting May 14, the Market will open 7 a.m. Mon.-Fri.

Customers of the Green Hills Meat Market probably haven’t noticed that “& Cafe” has been added to the name of the 25-year-old business, which hasn’t been in Green Hills proper since it relocated to Granny White Pike across from David Lipscomb about a decade ago. But the makeover of the store itself is obvious, and since purchasing the business in March, partners Johnny Todd, Karen McDevitt, and Debbie Valentine are slowly implementing other changes as well.

All three are food-industry veterans, so it’s not surprising that the focus has shifted from market to cafe. Though the butcher case still holds fresh cuts of beef, lamb, pork, and chicken, and Boars Head deli meats and cheeses are still sold by the pound, the shelving in the front of the store has been moved or removed altogether, replaced by a bright and cheerful dining area that seats 42. The whole market is lighter and more welcoming, and at lunch, the room has a lively and comfortable ambiance.

Todd, McDevitt, and Valentine have expanded the selections on the hot line, with three different entrees offered daily and vegetables du jour to compose meat-and-one, -two, or -three. Some of the choices are classic options, like fried pork chops, chicken and dumplings, and meat loaf, but on Monday there’s also baked lemon-pepper chicken, on Thursday there’s veggie lasagna, and on Friday traditionalists can have fried chicken or catfish, or they can sample the Oriental pan-seared pork loin.

The market/cafe’s deli sandwiches—including the very popular Reuben—are now supplemented by grilled free-range chicken breast, a BLT, and a marinated grilled portabella mushroom sandwich.

On May 14, the Green Hills Meat Market & Cafe will begin serving breakfast items, including sausage and biscuits and egg sandwiches.

All over town

Dining options—from full-service, white-tablecloth to quick-stop, grab-and-go—continue to expand in Nashville at a dizzying rate.

Surely the most intriguing new entry has to be Piranha Brothers Sandwiches, next door to Bar Nashville, at 114 Second Ave. S. The Pirmanpi (pronounced “Pirmani”) sandwich has been imported here by Michael Hamlin and Dean Tsouris, natives of Pittsburgh, where the concept originated 70 years ago. The original shop, Pirmanpi Brothers Sandwiches, was located in a downtown industrial district and was frequented by truck drivers making deliveries in the neighborhood. Pressed for time and eating on the run, the drivers requested that rather than having their side orders on the side, they be piled onto the sandwich, and thus was born the Pirmanpi.

Piranha Brothers’ sandwiches are made on Italian bread (baked locally, by Provence) with a choice of meats that includes capicola, smoked turkey, chicken, or steak. Other toppings are then added: Provolone cheese, sliced tomato, a scoop of vinegar-based cole slaw, and hand-cut French Fries, all piled on the sandwich, which Hamlin reports is “huge.”

Hamlin and Tsouris opened Piranha Brothers Sandwiches on April 23 and are already making an impression with the late-night crowd and Second Avenue service workers, which is not surprising to Hamlin. “The Pittsburgh Post Gazette names the Pirmanpi the No. 1 Late Night Bite every year,” he reveals. Particularly popular with the after-hours crowd is the steak-and-fried-egg sandwich.

Piranha Brothers Sandwiches, which has a full bar as well, is open 11 a.m.-4 a.m. Mon.-Sat. Sandwiches are $6.

A longtime downtown favorite has reopened, albeit with a new name. Nick’s Italian Deli at 508 Fifth Ave. S. closed about six months ago, much to the dismay of downtown workers who lined up daily for baked pastas and hot deli sandwiches. Six weeks ago, Nick DeFilippis’ brother-in-law Lou Levnjak opened Angelo’s Italian Kitchen in the same location and is serving lunch 10:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Mon.-Fri. On the menu are lasagna, stuffed shells, spaghetti and meatballs, hot sandwiches, and “the world’s greatest eggplant parmigiana,” according to Lou.

Meanwhile, DeFilippis continues to operate a Nick’s Italian Deli on Mallory Lane in Cool Springs.

One of the best and most promising trends on the Nashville dining scene in recent months has been the slow but steady proliferation of new restaurants in transitional neighborhoods: Caffe Nonna and now Park Cafe in Sylvan Park; Sasso and soon Cafe Margot in East Nashville; Mirror in 12 South; and 6º and soon a branch of Provence Bakery & Café in The Gulch.

Last week, Kote’s Restaurant opened its doors on Belmont Boulevard, a neighborhood that is gentrifying at the speed of sound and has the new property reappraisals to prove it. Owned by chef Eugene Kote and his fiancée Dawn Shenk, who directed the refurbishment and runs the front of the house, Kote’s is in the former International House Restaurant in the little bend of the ’vard that includes Tabouli’s, Bongo Java, and International Market.

Kote’s debuted with a lunch-only menu that featured salads and sandwiches, including grilled eggplant on Provence’s rosemary bread with pesto spread and fresh mozzarella. Popular demand has inspired the couple to step up their plans to add dinner, and they will begin serving a select evening menu at 5 p.m. this Friday and Saturday. A small snafu has delayed their wine license, but customers are invited to BYOB. Kote’s is at 2017 Belmont Blvd. Phone: 463-3350.

A few blocks away, Mirror ceased lunchtime operations on April 27 to concentrate on its growing dinner, late-night, and special-event business. The restaurant, owned by chefs Michael and Colleen DeGregory and partner Rick Bolsam, is expanding evening hours, adding a late-night tapas menu, and planning more beer and wine dinners and special evenings like the recent Oscar party and film screenings.

In East Nashville, the Good Earth Market will open May 16 at 10th and Woodland streets. In addition to stocking organic and health foods and gobs of fresh produce, the market is contracting with Red Wagon Catering to provide prepared carry-out foods. Red Wagon, owned by chef, caterer, visual artist, and owner of the world’s most melodic giggle Meg Giuffrida, will have a globally influenced repertoire of sandwiches, salads, and, very soon, a weekly menu of dinner items available for pre-order and pick-up. Red Wagon can be contacted at 251-1251 for catering and special events.


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