Holland House is first and foremost an “epicurean cocktail lounge,” with more than 50 classic and contemporary cocktails for the quaffing. From a rye Manhattan with house-made maraschino cherries to a “Village Reserve” bourbon infused with bacon and Olive & Sinclair chocolate from nearby Riverside Village, the choices can be overwhelming. But there’s plenty of reason to seek refuge in this East Side watering hole, even if you’re on the wagon. Edible enticements lean toward sophisticated bar snacks, such as house-made potato chips drizzled with truffle oil; sliced radishes with butter and salts; and “lamb wings,” a.k.a. flour-dusted and pan-fried chops, served with charred corn-and-soybean succotash, creamed kale and tangy hot sauce reminiscent of Buffalo chicken.