The first sign that James Beard Award-winner Louis Osteen and crew are paying attention to the details comes in the bottom of a cocktail glass, where a boozy brandied cherry nestles in the spot usually filled by a cliché candy-colored Maraschino. There’s also a chalkboard scrawled with a dizzying array of oysters — Fanny Bay, Hog Shoal and Chincoteague, to name a few — which are available individually or in dozens and half-dozens. If your motivation for selecting a seafood restaurant is to dine on lighter cuisine, stick with the raw bar or “simply grilled” items, including salmon, scallops, grouper and shrimp, marinated in olive oil, lemon juice and vermouth and served with sauce and a side. Otherwise, brace yourself for a whale of meal, including warm breads, decadent shrimp and grits, trout stuffed with crabmeat and Benton’s bacon, and jumbo scallops with potato-shrimp hash and fried okra. From a reinterpretation of Mississippi mud as an elegant chocolate crème brulée with a blanket of scorched house made marshmallow to cinnamon roll beignets bursting with molten butter and spice beside a scoop of cream cheese ice cream, the sweet flourish of dessert underscores the deep flavor and tradition underlying Fish & Co.’s seaworthy Southern-inspired menu.