Paraphrasing Mark Twain, let me say with great enthusiasm that rumors of the death of Nashville's dining industry have been greatly exaggerated. Lest we get hung up on recent reports of restaurant closings, I'll take this opportunity to catalog some good news on the dining horizon. In lieu of a single dining review, I offer a tasting menu of new openings—a chef's table, if you will, of cuisine ranging from Greek to Spanish to Asian and Cajun.
Most of these places haven't been open long enough to warrant a full review, since we like to give new places a chance to settle in and work out the start-up kinks. But we've enjoyed our early visits and heard enough good buzz about these establishments that we couldn't resist the opportunity to throw some good bites your way. Speaking of bites, if you haven't checked out the Scene's food blog, Bites (blogs.nashvillescene.com/bites), drop in sometime. You can read about the newest developments on the dining landscape and give us your feedback on where you've been eating.
ChaChah
If you like PM, you'll love ChaChah, the second act of ever-creative Arnold Myint. "I must have been Spanish in a former life," says Arnold, the son of Patti and Win Myint, who founded the International Market Asian grocery and restaurant across the street. After putting his own contemporary twist on the Asian menu at PM, which he took over from Patti a couple of years ago, Arnold has unleashed his culinary vision on a Spanish-flavored tapas-style menu of small plates ranging from spicy gambas a la plancha to duck-and-banana-leaf tamales. Larger plates include squid-ink seafood risotto and Moroccan spiced lamb loin. The presentations are exquisite, and the small plates are ideal for sharing. (Don't get us started on the hot chocolate service for two poured over a homemade brûléed marshmallow. It's downright naughty.) ChaChah currently serves dinner only and is closed on Tuesdays. In March, Arnold will begin hosting a chef's table on Mondays, at which he will deliver a tasting menu of unusual items designed to attract foodies who want to explore and discuss meals such as bison marrow with cardamom-braised shank and pig-ear salad with mango-dill chili. A glowing warm house on a cold night, ChaChah promises to become a landmark for creative cocktails and tapas on the patio when the weather improves and Arnold lifts the garage doors on his newest neighborhood hotspot. 2013 Belmont Blvd., 298-140.
1808 Grille
Mid-century modern meets Montana lodge in this attractive open-all-day eatery on the ground floor of the new Hutton Hotel, where sleek lines paired with rustic details set a tone for a unique dining experience. We're already strategizing our next lunch order from the so-called Panini Parlor, which offers a mix-and-match menu with choices including roast chicken, pulled duck and citrus pork that can be combined with toppings such as caramelized onions, braised red cabbage, mozzarella, Manchego and chimichurri. Creative presentations of French fries in a miniature deep-fryer basket, beignets in a paper for shaking with powdered sugar and peanut butter mousse delivered in a pastry bag for squeezing onto dark chocolate bark make for a playful meal. Meanwhile, excellent food and homemade touches—think house-cured olives and pickled vegetables—demonstrate that the skillful kitchen staff is not playing around. 1808 West End Ave., 340-0012.
Zavós
After months of driving by the former Niko's bar across the street from the Family Wash, East Nashvillians are rejoicing on their listserv and in the blogosphere about the recent debut of Zavós, a Greek restaurant run by brothers Niko and David Gehrke. With a succinct menu of fresh Mediterranean specialties, many of which land in the $5 to $10 range, Zavós has earned early reviews that recall the same exuberance surrounding Marché. Meanwhile, the cosmopolitan yet laid-back vibe has evoked comparisons to places in New York, Portland or Chicago. Menu highlights include the beefteaki plate (baked, chopped Angus beef with seasonings and Greek-style potatoes, $5); the beefteaki souvlaki (the same beef served in a pita with tzaziki sauce, shallots, tomatoes and a side, $6), the traditional Greek salad ($6) and the Mediterranean platter (tzaziki, eggplant salad, red pepper salsa, hummus, feta cheese and warm pita, $8). If all goes well, the Gehrkes hope to expand beyond the dinner hours to offer breakfast and lunch. For now, kitchen hours are 5 to 11 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. The bar stays open later. Beer is currently available and a liquor license is on the way. 1115 Porter Road, 258-4637.
Watanabe Sushi and Asian Cuisine
Things we never thought we'd hear ourselves order in a restaurant include the McGavock Pike Roll, a combination of crabmeat, cream cheese, cucumber and smoked salmon named for the East Nashville address of serial restaurateur Matt Charette's newest venture. Named for chef Hide Watanabe, the Riverside Village eatery, located at the corner of Riverside and McGavock, offers a pan-Asian menu including noodles, sushi, sashimi, teriyaki and rice dishes. With a comfortably sleek, dimly lit and spanking-clean room, Watanabe raises the bar for atmosphere among local Asian-cuisine establishments. The casual and family-friendly dinner-only establishment would likely be a shoo-in for the best sushi restaurant in East Nashville—and not because it's the first. Charette's Wave Sushi Bar inside Batter'd & Fried at Five Points reportedly holds that claim. But Watanabe's one-two punch of fresh fish—don't miss the toro if it's available—and inviting vibe makes it a welcome addition to the neighborhood's dinner menu. 1400 McGavock Pike, 226-1112.
Urban Flats Flatbread & Wine Co.
Among the cleverest restaurant names around, Urban Flats alludes to the citified lofts in the soaring Icon apartment building, where this newest link in the Florida-based restaurant chain occupies the ground floor, as well as to the menu of brick oven-fired whole wheat flatbreads piled with combinations such as steak with blue cheese and fig with prosciutto. While the creative roster of thin-skinned pies is the menu's mainstay, a diverse list of seasonal appetizers and entrées (don't miss the chicken en papillote with roast vegetables) and a sprawling wine list make Urban Flats more than a cheesy pizza joint. 610 12th Ave. S., 254-0454.
Satay Thai Grill
With its understated sign and tiny storefront, this second act by the team that brought you Thai Spice in Franklin could easily blend into its bland strip-mall surroundings, luring little more than a penny-pinching and noodle-munching audience of college students. But food this fresh and well priced doesn't just blend in. It stands out like a sore thumb that's been skewered, grilled and dipped in peanut sauce. Horrible similes aside, owner Tong Prasertsinh cheerfully and efficiently mans the counter of the gleaming store, while his wife holds down the fort at their first restaurant. The short and sweet menu makes decisions easy, and the prices mean you can afford to work your way down the list pretty quickly. Chicken and pork satay plates come with four skewers, a fluffy salad with tamarind dressing, and choice of noodles or rice. Tom yum soup with chicken is redolent with fresh cilantro and hunks of fresh tomato, and summer rolls burst with shrimp, lettuce and fresh mint. Don't miss the steamed chicken bun on fresh baked soft bread, made in house at Thai Spice, slathered with hoisin sauce and loaded with grilled chicken strips and English cucumbers. Open daily, Satay offers takeout. 2412 Elliston Place, 915-0972.
Cajun Steamer Bar & Grill
This third installment of the Birmingham-based nameplate just opened this month, so we still don't know whether it will fulfill your bayou-soaked fantasies about that fried eggplant stuffed with fish and topped with crab cream, like the one at the bygone Uglesich's in New Orleans. But the menu crawling with crawfish, overflowing with oysters and pooling with po'boys—including blackened alligator—is enough to lure us south on I-65 to give it a try for lunch or dinner any day of the week. As always, if you get to Cajun Steamer before we do, please report back on the Scene's food blog, Bites. 1175 Meridian Blvd., Suite 108, 435-3074.
Email cfox@nashvillescene.com, or call 615-844-9408.
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thank-you for writing an affirmative dining article. foodservice needs some positive reinforcement. dining out is still a wonderful experience. keep writing about the local places, I beleive that many of your readers are looking for new places to try.
Zavós is a dump. There is no restaurant that I know between Portland, WA and Nashville, TN that remotely resembles such a bad idea for a restaurant unless you mention Jimmy Kelly's (ahem) steakhouse. Please do not insult the intelligence of your readers - actually, now that I mention it, not all that difficult of a task.....
Zavós is a dump. There is no restaurant that I know between Portland, WA and Nashville, TN that remotely resembles such a bad idea for a restaurant unless you mention Jimmy Kelly's (ahem) steakhouse. Please do not insult the intelligence of your readers - actually, now that I mention it, not all that difficult of a task.....
Zavós is a dump. There is no restaurant that I know between Portland, WA and Nashville, TN that remotely resembles such a bad idea for a restaurant unless you mention Jimmy Kelly's (ahem) steakhouse. Please do not insult the intelligence of your readers - actually, now that I mention it, not all that difficult of a task.....
Zavós is a dump. There is no restaurant that I know between Portland, WA and Nashville, TN that remotely resembles such a bad idea for a restaurant unless you mention Jimmy Kelly's (ahem) steakhouse. Please do not insult the intelligence of your readers - actually, now that I mention it, not all that difficult of a task.....
Zavós is a dump. There is no restaurant that I know between Portland, WA and Nashville, TN that remotely resembles such a bad idea for a restaurant unless you mention Jimmy Kelly's (ahem) steakhouse. Please do not insult the intelligence of your readers - actually, now that I mention it, not all that difficult of a task.....
Zavós is a dump. There is no restaurant that I know between Portland, WA and Nashville, TN that remotely resembles such a bad idea for a restaurant unless you mention Jimmy Kelly's (ahem) steakhouse. Please do not insult the intelligence of your readers - actually, now that I mention it, not all that difficult of a task.....
Zavós is a dump. There is no restaurant that I know between Portland, WA and Nashville, TN that remotely resembles such a bad idea for a restaurant unless you mention Jimmy Kelly's (ahem) steakhouse. Please do not insult the intelligence of your readers - actually, now that I mention it, not all that difficult of a task.....
Zavós is a dump. There is no restaurant that I know between Portland, WA and Nashville, TN that remotely resembles such a bad idea for a restaurant unless you mention Jimmy Kelly's (ahem) steakhouse. Please do not insult the intelligence of your readers - actually, now that I mention it, not all that difficult of a task.....
Zavós is a dump. There is no restaurant that I know between Portland, WA and Nashville, TN that remotely resembles such a bad idea for a restaurant unless you mention Jimmy Kelly's (ahem) steakhouse. Please do not insult the intelligence of your readers - actually, now that I mention it, not all that difficult of a task.....
Zavós is a dump. There is no restaurant that I know between Portland, WA and Nashville, TN that remotely resembles such a bad idea for a restaurant unless you mention Jimmy Kelly's (ahem) steakhouse. Please do not insult the intelligence of your readers - actually, now that I mention it, not all that difficult of a task.....
Zavós is a dump. There is no restaurant that I know between Portland, WA and Nashville, TN that remotely resembles such a bad idea for a restaurant unless you mention Jimmy Kelly's (ahem) steakhouse. Please do not insult the intelligence of your readers - actually, now that I mention it, not all that difficult of a task.....
Zavós is a dump. There is no restaurant that I know between Portland, WA and Nashville, TN that remotely resembles such a bad idea for a restaurant unless you mention Jimmy Kelly's (ahem) steakhouse. Please do not insult the intelligence of your readers - actually, now that I mention it, not all that difficult of a task.....
Zavós is a dump. There is no restaurant that I know between Portland, WA and Nashville, TN that remotely resembles such a bad idea for a restaurant unless you mention Jimmy Kelly's (ahem) steakhouse. Please do not insult the intelligence of your readers - actually, now that I mention it, not all that difficult of a task.....
Zavós is a dump. There is no restaurant that I know between Portland, WA and Nashville, TN that remotely resembles such a bad idea for a restaurant unless you mention Jimmy Kelly's (ahem) steakhouse. Please do not insult the intelligence of your readers - actually, now that I mention it, not all that difficult of a task.....