For people who prefer chicken with a deep-bronze and hard-wrought fryer-thickened coating, Sharon Johnson's Trinity Lane meat-and-three is not the choice of champions. But for those of us who appreciate a delicate, blond finish with a whisper-light texture akin to tempura, Southern Bred is best of breed. Meticulously clean frying oil and a buttermilk batter produce a succulent bird that can be deftly handled with fork and knife without sending thick-skinned wings flying across the table. Some may call it "girly," but I dare you to say that to the burliest of men wolfing down drumsticks, squash casserole and homemade muffins at Johnson's Southern-style lunchtime landmark on the East Side. Carrington Fox