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The name is the address of this downtown breakfast and lunch spot in the space that for years housed the beloved Southern teahouse Satsuma. Early morning specialties include pancakes, steak and eggs, pork chop and eggs, omelets, thick-cut bacon and hash browns. The basic lunch menu is supplemented by daily blue plate specials like fried chicken, beef and pork chops with two or three sides. The unique calling card for 417 Union is its genuine, 60-year-old soda bar that serves old-fashioned favorites like banana splits, hot fudge sundaes, floats, malts, milk shakes and even New York egg creams.
10 a.m.-midnight Mon.-Thurs.; 10 a.m.-3 a.m. Fri. & Sat.; noon-10 p.m. Sun.
Everyone has their favorite meat-and-three, but Arnold’s probably tops more lists, as evidenced by the cross-section of Nashvillians who line up daily for the fried green tomatoes, peppery roast beef, turnip greens, bread pudding and chocolate pie. Presided over for two decades by the curmudgeonly but lovable Jack Arnold and his luscious, vivacious wife Rose, the dining room has fewer tables than customers, so be prepared to share. Son Kahlil finally talked his parents into bringing back breakfast, and downtown commuters start pulling into the graveled lot just after dawn, lured by the sizzle of bacon and smell of biscuits. The restaurant used to be cash-only, but it has recently begun accepting Visa and MasterCard and opens for breakfast in fall 2006.
The first thing you notice about a Bagel Face bagel is the shape (more akin to a baseball than to a doughnut), followed closely by the texture (more tender than so many jaw-breaking specimens, without being fluffy like a bun masquerading as a bagel). It’s a combination that has won over restaurants and coffee shops across town — which stock the bagels for their sandwiches and breadbaskets — and that lures an early morning clientele to the sunny yellow shotgun space in Riverside Village.
To speak in film terms, you might call Belcourt Taps & Tapas a good date movie, a romantic comedy leaning toward a chick flick. On any given visit, the restored bungalow is equal parts cooing couples and girls’ nights out. The menu is a small ensemble cast of shared plates and desserts. If Taps & Tapas is a film, it is the soundtrack that makes it sing. Owners Chris Lynch and Rose Melillo brought in a sound engineer to outfit the quaint house as a listening room, and the result is an intimate room where quiet conversation can coexist with a writers’ night.
This restaurant and brewery started on the Tennessee River in Chattanooga; the Cumberland River outpost has outlasted many of its neighboring eateries downtown by offering a product—good, reasonably priced pub food and tasty brews—that does not rely on the fleeting attention span of trend-seekers. California-style pizzas are offered with a selection of unique toppings.
Broadway Brewhouse took over the short-lived Casabona Italian restaurant, which had taken over a furniture showroom in a storefront building on Lower Broad. Owner Kelly Jones has a proven track record with his two other Brewhouses—one in Midtown and one in Bellevue—and he has teamed up with a man who knows downtown nightlife, Hardy Ross, a co-owner of the thriving Rippy’s at the corner of Fifth and Broad. There are 72 kinds of beer in bottles and on draft behind the 60-foot bar to accompany the roadhouse menu, masterminded by chef Ed Arace.
Seared scallops and foie gras plated with orange-ginger balsamic vinaigrette might sound more at home in a white-tablecloth eatery than at a burger joint with communal tables with backless stools, but Burger Up flips that kind of entrenched dining protocol on its end — then grills it to perfection and serves it on a fresh bun loaded with local ingredients. The succinct, eclectic menu is anchored by burgers made from local Triple L Ranch beef and includes tuna tartar, salads, she-crab soup and a roster of creative cocktails. Served in a modern-rustic room in the bustling 12South neighborhood, Burger Up’s repertoire would be at home in the city’s most formal restaurants – but where would be the fun in that?
Executive chef Sean Brock, an honors graduate of Johnson & Wales, has one foot planted on Southern soil, while the other walks on the wild side of a new culinary movement that breaks foods down into their basic flavor essence, then rebuilds them into new and unlikely configurations. A native of Virginia, he spent much of his childhood in his grandmother’s farm kitchen and ever since has been on a meteoric ride through top-tier kitchens in the Southeast. His reputation preceded him, earning him the top slot at the stately and luxuriously appointed Capitol Grille in the nearly century-old Hermitage Hotel. Grounded by his upbringing, Brock pays homage to the South by incorporating locally grown and regional products into rich, earthy dishes. He calls his pork chop with sweet potatoes, black-eyed pea hash and creamy Anson Mill grits “my childhood on a plate.” The grown-up Brock gravitates toward the kitchen science pioneered by Spain’s Ferran Adria, who makes caviar out of mango, foam from foie gras, and dippin’ dots from tomatoes. Though the main menu stays close to home—if your home happens to be Tennessee’s only Five Diamond Hotel—his multi-course tasting menus are out of this world. Have an after-dinner drink in the adjoining Oak Bar, and be sure to check out the famous men’s room, no matter what gender you are.
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