Monday, February 18, 2013
First Bite First Bite: Rosebud Bistro
Posted by Chris Chamberlain on Mon, Feb 18, 2013 at 8:04 AM
Firek has put together a very interesting offering of Old World wines and high-gravity beers, with most glasses in the $9-$10 range and the thoughtful option to buy half-bottles in a carafe to try something new and different. Firek certainly knows his wines, so be sure to ask for his pairing advice if you have any questions.
The menu concentrates more on small plates for sharing than the old Mambu menu did. A charcuterie plate features surprising offerings in that all the salumis are American-made, but in Italian styles. The smoked prosciutto from Iowa of all places was a particular standout. An earthy mushroom risotto was also cooked well enough to pass Gordon Ramsay's taste test, had be visited Hartel's kitchen instead of Chappy's. At least Hartel might have actually listened to his advice...
The main plate of pork tenderloin with beets and arugula will probably end up being a signature item on the Rosebud menu, and deservedly so. The beets might even be tolerable to the legions of beet haters out there. Expect lots of dessert specials, and the blueberry crumble with sour cream gelato I tried was a particularly nice finish to the meal thanks to the interplay of sweet and sour, hot and cold. Rest assured, old Mambu fans, the coconut cream pie that you knew and loved made the transition to the new menu.
What didn't make the cut was a lot of the funky, eclectic interior furnishings that decorated the walls and bar at Mambu. The mismatched chairs are still there to add some charm, but the room tones are more muted, and the dining areas are lit by the seemingly ubiquitous Edison bulbs that illuminate place settings all over town. The dining experience is a little more sophisticated than Mambu was, and I'm hopeful that as more people discover the new iteration, Rosebud Bistro will regain some of the homey atmosphere that made an evening at Mambu so much fun.
Hartel is taking care of the kitchen, and Firek is handling the front of the house, so all they need is you to make it a party.
Rosebud Bistro
1806 Hayes St.
Nashville, TN 37203
(615) 329-1293
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