The expansive 16th Avenue space houses three pizza ovens, imported from Italy, along with rows of community tables for family-style seating. You can watch the bakers place your pizza in the oven, where it’s briefly kissed by the intense fire, then served to you just slightly charred.
The pizza menu includes the obvious varieties — margherita and bianca — and some less familiar ones like the verdura, a veggie pizza with broccoli rabe and mushrooms. DeSano also serves calzones and Italian desserts (cannoli and biscotti) made daily in house. There’s a small selection of beer and wine, but they also allow BYOB if you want to bring in a bottle of your favorite pizza-friendly red or white.
DeSano Pizza Bakery is at 155 16th Ave. S. Hours are 11 a.m.-10 p.m. (or, as they caution, until the dough runs out). The phone number is 953-1168. The website's still under construction, but you can follow @DeSano_Pizza on Twitter.
A version of this story appeared in my Food Biz column in today's print edition of The City Paper and online in the Nashville Post.