Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Sirloin Culotte Takes Flyte Under Chef Bolus' Steady Hand

Posted By on Tue, Jul 3, 2012 at 9:59 AM

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Tuesdays are tough dining days for me. First of all, City House is closed that night, so when I decide that I want to grab a quick pizza and one of Stephanie's cocktails before a Preds game, I'm outta luck. Next, no matter how many times Will Newman at Edley's Bar-B-Que reminds me that they're also closed on Tuesdays, I end up telling somebody to meet me there at least once a month, only to have to regroup or reschedule.

But I was on top of my game last Tuesday, or so I thought. An out-of-town friend wanted to meet me (and pay) for dinner, so I thought that it would be the perfect opportunity to finally get back to Flyte World Dining and Wine to try out the cuisine of their new chef, Matthew Lackey. I made my reservation online and met my buddy at the bar for a drink before dinner.

Wouldn't you know it, Chef Lackey was out of town that evening. Strike 3. Fortunately, Matt Bolus was running the kitchen that evening, so I knew that I'd be in good hands even though Chef Bolus was going solus. The dining room wasn't too busy, so we had a few minutes to chat before dinner. I asked Matt what was good, and he unhesitatingly recommended the culotte.

Say what? Aren't culottes what Angus Young wears in AC/DC? Or was that a Julian Lennon Album? Actually a culotte is the cap of the sirloin steak, and is a wonderful piece of meat that many folks have never heard of and which restaurants rarely feature on their menus. It's the same cut that rodizio-style steakhouses like Bombasha refer to as picanha and is an incredibly flavorful cut.

Not as tender as the nearby tenderloin, the culotte is often roasted as large pieces and then carved into individual servings. Bolus treated the cut with the same preparation as the New York strip and the filet on Flyte's menu. In fact, I really appreciated the fact that the chef suggested a cut that wasn't the most expensive, but that he thought I would enjoy the most. He was absolutely right.

I've heard that chef Tandy Wilson has substituted culotte for the tri-tip on the menu at City House, so now there's at least two places in town where I imagine you can go try an excellent example of this exotic cut. And before Jack chimes in, I'm sure they'll cut you one at Porter Road Butcher if you want to order one in advance to try at home.

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