Fox clearly enjoyed herself at Bean's "new beery, beefy barbecue joint." Fans of his barbecue, particularly the beef brisket that Texas expats crave, have followed him at various locations over the past decade. His latest restaurant on Church Street in midtown, titled The Judge's Vinegarroon, retains the familiar smoky scent, and as Carrington notes:
"The rugged Lone Star patina is still enough to make babies wanna grow up to be cowboys, especially if it means they can eat the kind of grub that Bean & Co. are churning out. Fans of the Judge's earlier eateries will recognize a lot of familiar fare; meanwhile, there's a new addition of several steaks, all priced under $20."
She praises the signature Scorpion Shrimp Diablos (the titular Vinegarroon is a variety of scorpion, along with the name of old-time Texas "hanging judge" Roy Bean's saloon) before she rhapsodizes on the ribs, which are "smoked until warm spices are candied onto the bark and the meat is purple with smoke and clinging to the bone with a tenacity you'd expect in a room steeped with so much Hook-'Em-Horns vim and vinegar."
The Judge's Vinegarroon is at 1805 Church St., 678-7116. Check them out on Facebook here.