You may recognize Papa Turneys's last name from Mama Turney's Pies, a side business that grew out of success of the pies that Turney was selling out of his restaurant's previous location in Whites Creek. A true entrepreneur, Turney has grown the pie company into a million-dollar business supplying stores such as Kroger, Publix, Piggly Wiggly and convenience stores, as well as Robert Orr Sysco and several restaurants like Swett's and Jack's Bar-B-Que.
Papa Turney now spends Thursday through Saturday behind the counter of his new restaurant location at the back of the parking lot where his smoker is still located. The small dining room is next to Shooter's Sports Bar and Grill at 5835 Old Hickory Blvd. With only a few tables available for dining in, Turney is not afraid to juggle a few seats around to accommodate larger parties. Still, much of his business is carry-out, and it's good to call ahead to see what specials are coming off the grill that day and to get your order in before he runs out.
The specials are what really makes Papa Turney's stand out. A whole lot of interesting things percolate in that smoker all day long, limited only by Turney's imagination. The expected pulled pork, ribs and brisket are especially smoky and benefit greatly from the house-made sauces, especially the hot version and the "hottest" sauce that Turney keeps behind the counter for special masochistic requests. Because the meats spend so much time in the smoker soaking up that hickory flavor, the ribs and brisket literally fell apart under our attacking forks. Some diners at the table really loved the tenderness, but I personally like a little more fight in my meat.
If you're looking for a more social and sociable place to watch your favorite teams play this weekend, I have two suggestions for you. Fresh on the heels of their apparently popular announcement that they have become a smoke-free zone, the folks at Sam's Sports Grill are celebrating the height of hoops frenzy by throwing a "Mad Marchness" party. And just because you're so talented and good-looking, they want to share some of the madness with you, Bitesters. All you have to do is give your ONE pick (Kentucky) to win it all in the comments, and we'll randomly choose a winner out of all the entries who pick it (Kentucky) correctly to award them a treasure trove of Sam's gift cards. Just to give you a little time to rebound from any bracket-busters, we'll give you until next Tuesday to get in your entries so you'll only need to pick from the Sweet 16 if you want to wait.
Speaking of celebrating, at M.L. Rose Craft Beer & Burgers, they're celebrating their new name change and imminent opening of a second location as well as the harmonic convergence of the NCAA Tourney and a Saturday night St. Patrick's day this weekend. On Saturday from 10:30 a.m. until close, they're throwing a party at their Franklin Road location, including a tented patio, green beer and Guinness on tap, homemade Shepherd’s Pie and other special brunch items available. There will also be 13 HDTVs for March Madness viewing and giveaways throughout the day. Sounds like a good place to camp out.
As far as wine, beer and whiskey tastings go this week, it's a busy one, so pace yourself through the first rounds of the Tourney and St. Patty's. Here's the rundown:
There's a lively energy these days at the venerable year-round market, as I learned when I wrote about Laura Wilson, chef at the market's spiffy Grow Local Kitchen, in the Scene's People Issue. Carrington clearly had a blast watching the day unfold inside the Market House, talking to vendors like Geraldine Bell of Geraldine's Greatest Chess Pies, and other local food-loving folks.
Wilson keeps coming up with terrific classes at the kitchen, so I urge you to watch the schedule. These events keep selling out! (The gluten-free baking class she lined up with her former sous chef, Sam Tucker — now pastry chef at Watermark — is being rescheduled because of an emergency in her family. We at Bites send Wilson our deep condolences on the death of her dad.)
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Remember last summer when Nicki Wood wrote about Faye Porter's cookbook At My Grandmother's Knee, which gathered 160 traditional Southern recipes that granddaughters across the South (but largely from Tennessee) received from their grandmothers?
Each recipe included a memory or story from the granddaughter about her Southern grandmother’s traditions, what she learned from her and how grandmothers show their love with food.
Now Porter is putting together a second volume, At My Grandmother’s Table. She's looking for new memories of Southern grandmothers: "recipes, traditions, advice, lessons-learned, funny or heartwarming stories."
Women or men alike can submit material for the new book. Get more info or submit your stuff at fayebookproject.com
Qualified submissions received by April 1 will be entered into a drawing for a chance to win a $100 Williams Sonoma gift card. And if your recipe is accepted, you'll get a free copy of the book.
And a final note: All Porter's proceeds from the second book will go toward the medical bills of her 4-year-old niece and godchild, Lillian Porter. Lil suffers from a rare form of hereditary angioedema.
What's on your mind, Bites Nation? Did you rediscover any of Grandma's recipes this week? Or perfect any new ones? Feel free to share your news, your questions, your ruminations here on the Open Thread.
The week of activities continues to evolve as craft beer manufacturers line up to participate, but as of this writing, more than 35 events have already been scheduled. Highlights include a Speigelau glass tasting at Yazoo, a City House Mystery Beer Dinner, a Sweetwater Tap Takeover at the newly monikered M.L. Rose, where all six Sweetwater brews will be featured on tap for the first time, and several in-store craft beer tastings at some of your favorite beer shops including Midtown Beer and Woodland Wine Merchant.
For that, I suggest Irish whiskey. Jameson and Bushmill are the gold standards when it comes to single pot and blended Irish whiskeys, but I've recently discovered a new favorite, Concannon. This blend of malt Irish whiskey and grain Irish whiskey spends at least four years in barrel to contribute nice notes of oak and vanilla to the floral honeysuckle aromas of this excellent spirit. At only about $20 per bottle, it's an affordable entry-level product to try out something a little different from your regular American bourbon or whiskey.
Irish whiskey is best sipped up or with just a cube or two of ice, but you can also substitute it in your favorite cocktails. Concannon offers several recipes here at their website for a Conhattan, a Concannonball, an Old Fashioned Conhannon and many others.
Concannon is also well-known for their winery and is now run by the fourth generation of vintners. Clearly, these folks know their way around a barrel.
I ordered a soy cappuccino which, I swear, tasted actually like it was made with the highest-quality actual milk. (Bravo!) Starbucks, which has only vanilla-flavored soy milk, always makes my coffee taste like tofu. One of my companions ordered an iced coffee that was beyond excellent, a strong concentrated beverage that wasn’t watered down with ice but had enough body to stand on its own as a well-crafted drink.
My other companion ordered what I have only seen offered in Florence, Italy, and have been searching for ever since: a Shakerato. Although a traditional caffe shakerato does not have dairy in it, as Dose’s version did, the full-bodied flavor of high-quality espresso shaken over ice was well-executed. I almost thought I was back in Firenze. The only thing missing was the martini glass it is usually served in.
Lately Chef Laura Wilson of Grow Local Kitchen at the Nashville Farmers' Market downtown has been scheduling interesting cooking classes faster than we can report them.
, set for 5 to 7 p.m. this Saturday, March 17, stars the excellent chef Sam Tucker. He's the pastry chef at Watermark and used to be Wilson's sous chef when she was at Turnip Truck Urban Fare. (They're the dynamic team that won last year's Iron Fork.)
Here's the class synopsis:
The amazing baker and pastry chef from Watermark, Sam Tucker, hosts a gluten-free bread baking class featuring Irish Soda Bread. Sam was already an almost 20-year kitchen veteran when he found that his wife and son both had celiac disease. Since then, he has made it his mission to develop delicious gluten-free bread recipes. Reservations are required and space is limited. The cost is $25 a person.
Soda bread? The class even has a St. Patrick's Day angle. Register here, and don't dally: These classes have been selling out.
(However, if you can't make it, Tucker is expected to teach more gluten-free classes in the future.)
Chef Dan Maggipinto of Caffe Nonna has joined in these sort of efforts with a new product that he is selling to benefit the Zoe's Brain Tumor Research Fund, named in memoriam to his daughter. Chef Maggipinto has sold his excellent tomato sauces for years to raise money for the fund, which is a St. Jude's Research Hospital partner.
Now he is taking aim at your sweet tooth to help raise funds for cancer research with a new line of absolutely delicious Chianti Thumbprint Cookies. A simple sweetbread sort of cookie filled with Nonna's Chianti jelly, I can vouch that these things are addictive, but at least it's for a good cause. You can buy them at Produce Place, Caffe Nonna, Local Taco, The Turnip Truck, Cash n Carry and at nonnasgourmetfoods.com and feel good about busting your diet.
After a preview or two, the Biscuit Love truck will make its debut April 6 at the Meet ’N Three food truck gathering at the Nashville Farmers’ Market. Here's what I wrote:
Who doesn’t love a scratch biscuit, right? That’s the appealing concept behind the Biscuit Love food truck, which will hit the streets in early April.
The folks behind Biscuit Love are the husband-and-wife team of Karl and Sarah Worley. They’re from here, but they both attended culinary school at Johnson and Wales in Denver and honed their skills in Durham, N.C., before returning home and turning their love of Southern food into a rolling restaurant.
The tagline is “scratch-made gourmet sandwiches,” and Karl Worley said most everything will be made in house, including the biscuits, of course, the gravy and even toppings like pickles and mustard.
Perhaps the most intriguing menu item is the Princess, an homage to Nashville-style hot chicken and a certain famous hot chicken joint. It starts with a biscuit, topped with a spicy fried chicken thigh (boneless, in a concession to biscuit mechanics), plus the aforementioned pickles and mustard and a drizzle of honey.
You can also build your own biscuit with alluring ingredients such as local bacon, country ham, Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheddar, sausage gravy, and most delirious of all … Olive & Sinclair chocolate gravy.
The Worleys plan to unveil the truck April 6 at the Meet ’N Three food truck gathering at the Nashville Farmers’ Market. To check out the menu, visit biscuitlovetruck.com or watch for updates on Facebook and Twitter @BiscuitLuvTruck.
Archer worked for Bread & Company for 10 years as director of operations before he opened his own place in late January. The West End Cafe serves breakfast, lunch and weekend brunch, and with a full bar, it also targets the after-work and pre-event crowd. There are TVs that can be turned to sports, and Archer said he's already serving folks who stop by before hockey games.
West End Cafe is currently open until 7 p.m. weekdays, and Archer plans to add hot dinner entrees and longer hours soon.)
Click here to read the full column.
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