Friday, June 24, 2011

This Week's Dining Review: Glazée Artisan Ice Creams & Desserts

Posted By on Fri, Jun 24, 2011 at 3:10 PM

Amid all the hubbub about new ice cream options like Jeni's and Graeter's, an excellent local purveyor of carefully crafted ice cream has been scooping away quietly in Cool Springs. In this week's dining review, Scene restaurant critic Carrington Fox sings the praises of Glazée Artisan Ice Creams & Desserts.

Glazée is owned and operated by Michael Woody, a former Californian who worked at Baskin-Robbins in his youth and launched his own ice cream palace last year in a Cool Springs strip near Home Depot. Carrington writes:

The simple storefront wears a tasteful but nondescript palette of designer browns — none of the bright-pink-and-green frills of the recent frozen yogurt boom. Apart from a few stuffed animals and toys on hand to occupy younger patrons while their parents sip coffee at the cafe tables, there's not much in the place. Nor is there much in the ice cream — and therein lies the beauty of Glazée.

Cream. Half-and-half. Sugar. Those are the straightforward inputs that make up Woody's understated and indulgent repertoire — along with a few elegantly simple embellishments and the delicious delivery system of made-to-order cones fresh off the waffle iron. "There's no big secret to making ice cream," Woody confesses, as he ticks off the ingredient trifecta.

But he's quick to add that a commercial mixer gives a guy like him a distinct advantage over home crankers, whose recipes often emerge "gummy," "icy" or "crumbly," to use the vernacular of frozen dairy treats. The difference, he explains, is that a commercial mixer turns on its side, like a clothes dryer, folding air into the mixture with every revolution. Meanwhile, most home machines spin vertically, like a blender, and consequently can't achieve the same creaminess.

Woody's attention to detail extends to making his own mint extract by "steeping fresh mint leaves in vodka for three weeks on his deck, like sun tea." Butter pecan is sweetened with real, dark maple syrup and caramel.

Glazée Artisan Ice Creams & Desserts is at 8105 Moores Lane in Cool Springs, 472-8556.

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