Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Cafe Bosna Beckons

Posted By on Tue, May 24, 2011 at 5:21 AM

Stuffed cabbage rolls, stuffed pepper and chevapi from Cafe Bosna
  • Nicki P. Wood
  • Stuffed cabbage rolls, stuffed pepper and chevapi from Cafe Bosna
Sorry, Hermitage, to tell your dining secret, but Cafe Bosna is so great you must share it.

Cafe Bosna, open a couple of years on Old Hickory, is the metier of Sevala Kulovic, onetime owner of Sevala's at Fifth and Union downtown. She drew attention to the little eatery with high-quality coffeeshop food sprinkled with Bosnian specialties.

Kulovic moved to Denver after selling Sevala's, then returned to Middle Tennessee about three years ago and opened Cafe Bosna (5751 Old Hickory Blvd., 889-7008).

Everything is made fresh, including the phyllo pastry (if you can even get your brain around that), and dinner is cooked to order. The back of the menu includes a listing of specialties from various regions including Turkey, Armenia, Hungary, Austria, Germany and Poland.

Sit in the dining room and you're treated like family, with conversation and camaraderie if you like, or privacy if you prefer. Sevala will light candles at your table. Fine European specialties like schnitzels (Jager, Vienna) arrive perfectly cooked and plated with fresh vegetables ($14 and change). You can scarf it down and leave, or bring a bottle of wine and linger as long as you like. Cafe Bosna is really very much like dining in Hungary or Poland.

After a great schnitzel dinner, we also got takeout for another dinner. It's as good as homemade, with the decided advantage that I didn't have to make it. Golubki fans will gravitate toward the cabbage rolls, stuffed with a finely ground meat and rice mixture. And when there's a stuffed green pepper on offer, I'll always opt for it — it has great nostalgia for me. Nice that you can get the cabbage rolls or pepper plate with sides for $12.50 or a la carte for $7.95. To round it out, we ordered cevapi, or hand-formed sausages. which come six or seven to an order.

I'll join the chorus on Yelp and Urbanspoon, as well as a couple of our regular Bites visitors, in saying that it's impossible to overpraise the food here. Homemade, handmade, skilled and unique in Nashville.

The only upsetting note is that Bosna is shortening hours. At one point, Bosna offered both lunch and dinner. Now it's just dinner, Tuesday through Saturday, 5 to 9 p.m., according to their Facebook page.

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