Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Breakfast in Sylvan Park at . . . Sylvan Park

Posted By on Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 10:33 AM

Fried bologna, soft-scrambled eggs and home fries at Sylvan Park Restaurant
  • Fried bologna, soft-scrambled eggs and home fries at Sylvan Park Restaurant
Sylvan Park Restaurant, the doughty meat-and-three named for its neighborhood, recently added breakfast service from Wednesday to Saturday. (Previously they offered only lunch and early dinner.)

"It's great move for them," one neighbor volunteered. "Star Bagel is packed at breakfast, so there's clearly a demand."

Most of the breakfast menu is what you'd expect: biscuits, gravy, ham, eggs, omelets, home fries, pork chops. There was one especially Southern tradition: the fried bologna plate — I had to try it.

Though not glamorous, it was made with the same care that goes into the best of Sylvan Park's cooking: The bologna was seasoned and allowed to sizzle until browned, and the eggs were soft-scrambled precisely to that point between gooey and firm.

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The home fries were puffed and golden. The generous helping was arguably enough for two people, if said people had moderate appetites.

The staff's friendly, so they might let you order breakfast at a minute or two past 11, like they did for the table next to mine.

But then again, at that hour, you could be getting fried chicken and mashed potatoes instead, and you'd definitely be there early enough to score a coveted slice of chocolate pie for dessert.

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