Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Wine Wine Wednesday — Cruvinet: It's Like Wine on Tap
Posted by Chris Chamberlain on Tue, Dec 21, 2010 at 11:34 AM
Editor's note: Obviously we jumped the gun on Wine Wednesday and published it on Tuesday. (See below.) And no, it wasn't because we were dipping into the holiday wassail bowl. Wine Wednesday will return next week at its regularly scheduled time.
Luckily, some restaurants see the value of being able to provide higher-end wines as part of a by-the-glass program. BTG sales allow diners to try out a glass of an unfamiliar vintage before investing in a whole bottle, or to pair different wines with different courses.
Usually BTG wines are at the lower end of the wine list's price range, so that if a bottle isn't finished at the end of the evening there isn't as much risk of the house taking a loss. Even if the restaurant uses an argon-gas system to reseal an open bottle, it's very difficult to prevent that wine from losing its flavor after two or three days. If you're the unlucky soul who happens to order a $14 glass without knowing that it's the dregs of last week's bottle, you'll probably have a less than satisfying experience.
But some restaurants that offer extensive BTG programs — like Red Pony, Watermark and Flyte — invest in wine bar systems that allow them to keep multiple bottles open in a closed system that is maintained at the appropriate temperature to preserve freshness. Amerigo in Brentwood recently invested in a six-bottle Cruvinet system that general manager Doug Hogrefe says has revolutionized their BTG program.
They are taking advantage of the system to offer a rotating selection of fine wines that you would almost never see sold by the individual pour.
Now you can buy a 2-ounce taste, a half glass or a full pull of Barolos and Brunellos to accompany your meal without forking out $50 to $100 for the bottle. If your date prefers white wine or doesn't drink at all, you can still enjoy a spectacular glass for yourself.
A side note: many diners do not know that it is perfectly acceptable to have the restaurant re-cork an unfinished bottle so you can take it home with you. Or you could even leave it for the staff as an add-on to their tip.
(Editor's note: If you drive home with a re-corked bottle, place it in the trunk of your car so there's no possible appearance of violating open-container laws.)
Hogrefe says his distributors are helping him to offer a variety of hard-to-find wines since he doesn't necessarily need to keep cases and cases of inventory. When a rare BTG wine runs out, Amerigo can just swap out the line for another great find. It's a win-win for the restaurant and the consumer.
Here's an example some of the wines and prices you can expect to see flowing from Amerigo's Cruvinet:
WHITES
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars “Karia” Chardonnay Napa 2007
Aromas of mineral, apple, pear and spice lead to complex, layered flavors of spiced golden apple, Meyer
lemon and candied ginger, with just a hint of hazelnut and caramel. With a medium richness, Karia
charms with its balance of ripe fruit, understated barrel spice, mouth-filling texture and refreshing acidity. 100% Chardonnay
Glass $14.50, half-glass $7.50, taste $2.50
Bastianich Vespa Bianco Venezia Giulia IGT 2008
A tightly wound balance of minerality and citrus, evolving over time into a more viscous expression of
wildflowers, clover honey and mature pear. The palate sensations are more like those of a red wine. Its
tannic structure and acidic backbone combine to form a wine with uncommon complexity and longevity. 45% Chardonnay, 45% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Picolit
Glass $17, half-glass $9, taste $3
REDS
Giuseppe Campagnola Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC “Vigneti Vallata di Marano” 2006
Brilliant red garnet color. On the nose an ethereal, fragrant bouquet. It is full on the palate and velvety
smooth diving through layers of dark fruit and smoke, finishing dry. It is a warm, rich wine with an
aftertaste of green almonds.
65% Corvina and Corvinone Veronese and 35% Rondinella
Glass $20, half-glass $10.50, taste $3.50
Tenuta L’Illuminata Barolo DOCG “Tebavio” 2004
An ample and complex bouquet, with notes of violet and pleasant hints of cinnamon, clove, vanilla and
cherry. The flavor is rich, harmonious and slightly dry, and gives way to a long lasting aftertaste where
floral and liquorice tones predominate.
100% Nebbiolo
Glass $20, half-glass $10.50, taste $3.50
Poderi Colla Barbaresco DOCG “Roncaglie” 2005
Intense ruby red with subtly lighter reflections. Inviting yet non-aggressive bouquet layered with rose,
spice, berry, and woodsy sensations. On the palate it is long and soft, with a finish of great and firm
tannins. Full-bodied yet elegant, the queen to Barolo’s king.
100% Nebbiolo
Glass $20, half-glass $10.50, taste $3.50
Poggio Antico Toscana IGT “Madre” 2005
Vibrant ruby red with violet reflections. Concentrated on the nose with hints of black ripe wild fruit,
mocha, cocoa and spices. Warm and intense on the palate with hints of black fruit, leather and black
pepper. Round and youthful mouth feel that glides into a relentless finish.
50% Sangiovese and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon
Glass $25 half-glass $13.50, taste $4.50
If you really want to see a grand example of this concept, head up to Louisville to visit the L&N Wine Bar and Bistro, where they have a 50-bottle Cruvinet system installed. Just don't plan to drive back to Nashville that evening...
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