A lot of mediocre food passes under the banner of "pizza" and is forgiven, and eaten. Because it's pizza! Everyone likes pizza, right?
Uh, not automatically. That's why the arrival of another chain pizza place — Jet's Pizza — got a shrug from me. But then there was a busy night and people wanted pizza, and, well, I was too hungry and preoccupied to suggest alternatives. In short, and to be brief, pizza was ordered.
The crust was impressively thin and crisp and, most critically, cooked to the right doneness. The pizza maker had used a restrained hand with the sauce, so the flavor was there, but no excess quantities of sauce squishing through your teeth with each bite. The toppings of fennel-flecked Italian sausage and properly sliced green olives were both generous and evenly distributed. With the combination of ingredients and the execution, it was as good as homemade pizza.
And the pizza-cutting schematic — modest quadrilaterals rather than giant wedges — was an improvement over tradition. Cutting into small rectangles allows you to select the right amount in smaller increments. If you're a little hungrier, you eat one more rectangle. Big wedges are a bigger commitment.
In form and function, Jet's pizza was a success. Is there a Jet's Pizza near you? Is it always this well-made?