Tuesday, September 7, 2010

That Sow's Ear Really IS a Silk Purse

Posted by Chris Chamberlain on Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 6:00 AM

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I'll admit that I am guilty of assuming that chain restaurants, even the good local ones, are somehow inferior to mom-and-pop joints. This unfair prejudice can cause me to miss out on some good meals and not give credit where credit is due.

A case in point is Jim ‘N Nick’s Bar-B-Q. There's certainly nothing overtly wrong with the place. The food is solid, the service is dependable and the decor is actually a fairly thoughtful representation of the original restaurant. I just always assumed that because they have 20-something locations in seven states, somehow they had devolved from a BBQ joint to Olive Garden status and were unworthy of my recognition.

Shows how much I know. The Nick of Jim`N Nick's is Nick Pihakis, and I just found out that he's been nominated for a James Beard Award as one of the top 20 restaurateurs in America. That's some pretty high cotton for pig to trot in. They have also been a participant in the Big Apple BBQ Block Party that has featured our own Pat Martin for the past couple of years.

To top it off, Nick and his team was invited all the way across the country to Oakland, Calif., to participate in the Eat Real Fest, a large food festival extravaganza. Founded by Anya Fernald, the festival is the country’s first celebration of street food and craft foods featuring sustainably produced products. Nick took advantage of the trip to learn more about the movement of affordable, traceable foods, and bring their knowledge back to the South so they can implement similar programs for their guests and fans.

To make sure that the right people got the message, Jim ‘N Nick’s took along a Southern task force of 18 key players in the agriculture and culinary industries to attend this event. The task force was formed to gain a better understanding of creating affordable food that is both traceable and sustainable for all people.

I'll admit I wouldn't have expected this level of commitment to sustainability from a chain barbecue restaurant. They've gotten my attention, and now they'll probably get a little bit more of my lunch money. If for no other reason than I gotta try some of that smoked sausage and jalapeño pimento cheese!

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They are also long time corporate members and supporters of SFA which is what first got my attention. I met the principal dudes when they came to do some of the food for the Tomato Festival Patrons Party. I share the same allergic reaction and deep-seated aversion to chain restaurants, but I have to give props to Jim & Nick's for their efforts and committment.

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Posted by Kay on 09/07/2010 at 9:12 AM

We actually eat at Jim and Nick's quite often & believe they are the best and most consistent barbeque around. They have also catered an excellent company lunch for 60 people. Though I too think I prefer mom and pop (whatever that is) to the big chain restaurants, many ambitious restaurant entrepreneurs want multiple locations or dream of franchising. To accomplish that and keep the integrity of the original is an outstanding achievement and Jim & Nick's has done that. It's my understanding that the owner of Jim & Nick's franchise locally owns a stake in Martin's with thoughts of expansion. "There's certainly nothing overly wrong with the place." That's so laughable from my viewpoint.

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Posted by wls1119 on 09/07/2010 at 10:30 AM

Wow, I'm impressed. Can't say that I've ever eaten at a Jim n Nick's but this definitely changes my opinion of them.

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Posted by betheats on 09/07/2010 at 10:33 AM

i love jim & nick's. those little cheesy, sweet corn muffins are delicious. and i'm on board with any BBQ place that gives you side item options other than beans and slaw. i used to feel a twinge of guilt when choosing them over a 'local' BBQ joint...thanks for easing my mind, Chris. and now i want BBQ nachos.

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Posted by loveandnachos on 09/07/2010 at 11:57 AM

Nice subtle First Place ribbon placement in your commenter icon, Hippo. Well done.

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Posted by Chris Chamberlain on 09/07/2010 at 12:07 PM

Jim N' Nicks ranks up there with Mid-TN's best BBQ and I find myself out there (even though it's a 20 minute drive for me) at least 6 times a year, which is about the same amount of trips I make out to Martin's.

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Posted by Nashstu on 09/07/2010 at 12:19 PM

Jim 'N Nick's is our "go to" barbecue place when Martin's isn't an option. I vastly prefer it to Famous Dave's and like it better than most (but not all) of the M&P places in this area...

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Posted by pogo on 09/07/2010 at 12:30 PM

I got Jim & Nick's pulled pork for my daughter's graduation party in 2008 after learning of their SFA involvement, though I had to drive to Bellvue to fetch it. When my son graduated in 2010, I went a few blocks away to B&C. Both were really good, but B&C rocked on the grits. I consistently choose local and independent over chains, but Jim & Nick's aren't your average chain.

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Posted by Kay on 09/07/2010 at 12:35 PM

er....isn't your average chain

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Posted by Kay on 09/07/2010 at 12:35 PM

@Chris - i'll do anything i can do to achieve street cred. however, i maintain that it IS subtle...it's been there at least a full week and you're just noticing.

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Posted by loveandnachos on 09/07/2010 at 12:52 PM

Might as well pile on with the praise. It's only five minutes from us, and it's a guiltless pleasure, consistently satisfying on those nights when the process of cooking and doing dishes seems just too much. Something about the interior design of the place too - big and open, with great old photos. And the bartenders know what they are doing, and they don't mind if you slide in ahead of the line and eat at the bar. And for nights when we need it a little spicier, Mojo's/Brewhouse West (almost a chain?) is just up the street.

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Posted by Lmcknash on 09/07/2010 at 1:04 PM

Traditionally, I have liked everything about Jim 'N Nick's except the barbecue (love the SFA involvement, love those little cheesy corn muffins, love their coconut pie). Allegedly, though, they actually brought in Pat Martin as a consultant last year to help them improve the barbecue. And I have not been in to try the "new and improved" version, but I continue to hear good things. I'll have to give it a try.

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Posted by BP on 09/07/2010 at 1:17 PM

the best - and most unexpected - thing there is the smoked tomato queso. the smoked tomatoes put that in an entirely different orbit than any queso ever. Worst thing they do is serve it without warning when they're actually out of the tomatoes - you have to point out, um, that was the whole point...

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Posted by S L on 09/07/2010 at 1:46 PM

something about their bbq leaves me unimpressed, however, and I can't say why. It's just unimpressive. It's like the plates are too big something - it just leaves my cold and sits there with no personality. Like their servers - it's like being in a high school work opportunity club or something. Doesn't anyone understand that was the whole point of Shoney's - to get them all past their first job blank face jitters and leave us in more experienced hands at all the other places?

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Posted by S L on 09/07/2010 at 1:50 PM

I used to be able to take or leave Jim 'N Nick's. When it first opened, my friends and I went a lot. But we were also teenagers who didn't really know any better.

That being said, last spring I had a serious jonesing for some Sunday bbq and, especially living in 12 South area, that's a tough thing to come by. I jetted over to Charlotte and was really pleased with their pork sliders. Moist, smokey. Not as much bark as I would like, but still very good. I also appreciate the enormous glasses of sweet tea (as opposed to B&C's 2 sips and done).

At any rate, Hog Heaven has been killing it in their consistency this summer. Pork sandwich + Zapps chips is hard to beat.

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Posted by mike on 09/07/2010 at 2:09 PM

@wls "overtly" = "obviously." Let me pile on with everyone else and say Jim n Nick's is also second to Martin's for us. We frequent the newer Smyrna location.

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Posted by Scaevola on 09/07/2010 at 3:59 PM

For me, the fact that each Jim N' Nick's has its own pit takes quite a bit of air out of all the handwringing about chains.

I like the point about Mojo /Broadway Brewhouse- you can easily extend the Scarlet "C" to the Crow's Nest and several other restaurants...

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Posted by Terence on 09/07/2010 at 7:31 PM

The hot links (sausage) at Jim N Nicks is excellent. Super-lean and meaty with a nice texture and great spicy (but not overly) flavor. I've also always been impressed with the sides. Mac-n-cheese is awesome and the cabbage and collards always sport meaty chunks of hock. Definitely one of this town's chain-restaurant winners!

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Posted by Walter Sobchak on 09/08/2010 at 9:23 AM

And they have margaritas with Cointreau and top-shelf tequila every day for $3.

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Posted by Taterman on 09/08/2010 at 10:01 AM

Sooooooooooooo over the slider trend. Someone think of something new.

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Posted by Love Is In The Oven on 09/08/2010 at 1:22 PM
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