Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Wine Wednesday: Greens Meet Red

Posted by Chris Chamberlain on Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 8:14 AM

It's hard to believe that it's only been a few months since we were fearing for our lives under a towering mountain of kale, but lately as the weather grows colder and danker I've been craving hearty food and specifically some greens in my diet. Apparently a man can live only so long on a steady diet of Christmas cookies and sausage balls.

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I grabbed one of my favorite cookbooks that specializes in Mediterranean wine bar foods and searched for a recipe I'd been wanting to try, caldo verde. This kale-based stew is considered the national dish of Portugal and is exactly the kind of meal I like to make. By that I mean it takes lots of sous chef prep work (so I get to play with my knives) and then subsequently very little artistic talent during the actual cooking. Plus there was the bonus of a couple of hours of wonderful aromas as the olive oil, onions, garlic, potatoes and chorizo (which I subbed for Linguiça) steeped on the stovetop.

Now, pairing wine with greens is sometimes a difficult proposition.

Using the most basic regional keys would have pointed me toward a Portuguese Vinho Verde, but I wasn't in the mood for a light summery floral white wine. An ideal solution might have been the Casal Garcia Vinho Verde Rosé that I suggested earlier this year, but woe, it was a Sunday and I was Rosé-less.

What I wanted was something to complement was the earthiness of the kale and potatoes while still standing up to the smoky paprika of the sausage. When in doubt, I reach for a Bordeaux. Not because I know much about French wines, but they rarely disappoint when I'm looking for something earthy and tannic. Luckily, I had just the bottle on hand thanks to a trip to Woodland Wine Merchant and the advice of Will Motley, the proprietor.

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We opened a bottle of 2004 Château Larose-Trintaudon Haut-Médoc and let it breathe while we finished up the stew and made ourselves some bad-ass grilled cheese sandwiches using some of our Christmas cheese gift bounty. Before I go any further, I should acknowledge that without the use of cut and paste there's no way I could type the names of some of these Bordeaux wines, much less attempt to pronounce their names. That's why I print out a shopping list before I go wine shopping and point at names like a tourist in a Shanghai food market.

The Château Larose-Trintaudon is a pretty standard blend of 65 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 percent Merlot and 5 percent Cabernet Franc and is extremely well-structured. The pleasantly funky aromas of Gallic clay and leather were complemented by an herbal spiciness that allowed the wine to drink well on its own or with food. The finish was long and complex, especially for a $15 bottle of wine.

Unlike some other greens I like, the caldo verde didn't need any vinegar or citrus to counteract the bitterness. This allowed the Château Larose-Trintaudon to showcase its fruit on the palate as the meal went along and the wine opened up. The last swallow of the last glass also held up to a dessert of a single square of Olive and Sinclair Cocoa Nib Chocolate. On the whole, a very successful meal.

So don't be afraid of Bordeaux just because the labels are hard to read and pronounce. Once you ask for help and learn a few that you like in your price range you'll find that they are some of the most versatile food-friendly wines in the world. A nice bottle of Château Larose-Trintaudon Haut-Médoc isn't a bad place to start.

Cheers!

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I love the idea of caldo verde for New Year's Day -- thanks for the inspiration!

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Posted by Nicki Wood on 12/30/2009 at 9:53 AM
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