Wednesday, November 25, 2009

The One True Recipe for Mac-and-Cheese

Posted by Dana Kopp Franklin on Wed, Nov 25, 2009 at 1:51 PM

click to enlarge The only legitimate mac-and-cheese on earth, according to blogger Tom Scocca
  • The only legitimate mac-and-cheese on earth, according to blogger Tom Scocca

With all due respect to a certain Bitester who starts her macaroni-and-cheese recipe by whipping up an easy béchamel sauce, I must point you to a post at sardonic blog The Awl titled Fundamentalist Macaroni and Cheese.

The title refers not to the kind of cheesy pasta that fundamentalists eat, but to the only righteous recipe for mac-and-cheese, with all others being an abomination.

Blogger Tom Scocca begins, "This is the recipe for macaroni and cheese. It is the only recipe there is for macaroni and cheese. Here is what goes into it:

1. macaroni

2. cheese.

It does also include butter and milk. Think of them as more cheese."

What do you think? Is Scocca right, or does the one true mac-and-cheese come in a blue box? Or does it require semi-stale breadcrumbs to sprinkle on top? Or is it spiked with green chilies a la Park Cafe? Let us know.

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I'm one of those who thinks it needs a roux/bechamel and am reknowned my green chili mac though mine is not as good (or as fattening) as the Park Cafe.

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Posted by Mimi on November 25, 2009 at 3:42 PM

Park Cafe has the best mac and cheese I've ever had. And I've had a lot of mac and cheese. You would know this by looking at me.

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Posted by doug on November 25, 2009 at 4:07 PM

A key question, what kind of macaroni (pasta) and what kind of cheese(s) as well as ones mad roni skills.

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Posted by enigmawrap on November 25, 2009 at 4:22 PM

Depending on who's job it was that day, the Maytag Blue mac and cheese @ J Alexander's on White Bridge can be pretty damn good.
In my mac and cheese universe, the control is Stouffer's.
All that said, the bloggers knows of what he speaks.
Now I'm all hungry.

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Posted by Terence on November 25, 2009 at 6:24 PM

In my house, the one true recipe is the Alton Brown stovetop version. The cheese needs the hot sauce and dry mustard, other wise the cheese flavor is too flabby...

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Posted by pogo on November 25, 2009 at 7:10 PM

To me, mac & cheese must have cheddar (possibly with other real cheeses) and should never have even the tiniest bit of processed imitation cheese. So no american, no Velveeta, none of those abominations which don't count as cheese. Therefore, it must have a bit of roux or bechamel in which to begin melting the cheese, to ensure a smooth consistancy to the cheesy goodness. There should be much more cheese than white sauce, though. The cheese is the point of the thing, after all.

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Posted by loonytick on November 26, 2009 at 12:33 AM

Yep, macaroni, cheese, butter, milk. A little bit of flour to stiffen it up a bit (I don't like mine too runny) and that's it.

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Posted by Lesley on November 26, 2009 at 8:59 AM

Loonytick and I have the same idea. If you're using aged or other non-processed cheese, you have to have a medium for melting it or it curdles into clumps. Also needs some dry mustard and a pinch of ground red pepper. I occasionally beat and egg into the bechamel after the cheese, but only if I'm baking it.

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Posted by Nicki Wood on November 26, 2009 at 9:37 AM

For it to be true Mac & Cheese - it MUST be baked at some point. And, the only powdery substance should be flour - maybe some dry mustard. Want something really good, try Jacques Pepin's Penne au Gratin - leave out the tomatoes. It's a very nice twist on Mac & Cheese - my kids love it!

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Posted by Chip G on November 26, 2009 at 10:53 AM

stovetop, bechamel, cheddar, more cheddar, no egg. Yup.
(Stouffer's is OK I guess, but the control? Really? :P )

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Posted by jamiealex on November 26, 2009 at 1:44 PM

Been making some with Smoked Gouda as an accent recently. Haven't tried the bechamel sauce trick for melting the cheese yet. Thanks for the tip.
But if you want really good second day mac and cheese the Gouda just gets better as it sits.

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Posted by ManInTheYellowHat on November 30, 2009 at 1:09 PM

My mac and cheese is made with penne, fontina and truffle oil. I've been known to add shiitake mushrooms and sauteed shallots.
I do sometimes wonder where the mac and cheese/pasta with a cheese-based sauce line is drawn.

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Posted by H on December 1, 2009 at 8:19 PM
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