Monday, October 5, 2009

Why Restaurant Owners Shouldn't Gamble

Posted by Jack Silverman on Mon, Oct 5, 2009 at 10:20 AM

click to enlarge tandy.jpg

Your mother always warned you about gambling, and this is exactly why.

City House owner Tandy Wilson made a bet with a co-worker on the Tennessee/Auburn game, and you can see who won the bet. After the Vols lost a close one, Tandy had to work his whole shift last night with the Auburn team name emblazoned on his forehead. He took it in stride, and was gracious enough to allow Bites to take a picture. (Pardon the quality. It's an iPhone photo.)

Even with magic marker on his forehead, the man still makes a mean pizza. In fact, the whole meal was fabulous. Padrón peppers with a sardine/bread crumb topping, some delightful chicken wings with chef Aaron's top-secret Alabama sauce, and the exceptionally tasty aforementioned pie, topped with zampina (house-made Italian sausage), fennel and pecorino.

If you've never been to City House, make it a priority. It's one of the most imaginative, delightful and consistent restaurants in town. And, unlike most of the city's best eateries, it's open on Sunday night!

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How did I miss you Jack? We came in around 8. As noted the scarlett marker--or Tandy's unsettling allegience to UT---did not affect the kitchen. We had the peppers as well, and the pig liver terrine, which was divine, and the smoked trout balls. And the eggplant pizza. Could not talk my companions into even allowing the fried pig ear salad on the table. another time.

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Posted by Kay on 10/05/2009 at 11:00 AM

Kay, I had to take a friend to the airport at 7, so we had an early dinner. Would have been nice to see ya. How was the eggplant pizza?

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Posted by Jack on 10/05/2009 at 11:20 AM

Um, no. I've not yet had a chance to write up my assessment of dinner Saturday night, but I won't be going back to City House. Unless it's just for drinks and dessert (which were the only good things about our meal).
But it looks like you guys all order the specials instead of from the menu. Perhaps that makes a difference, but even the omnivores in my group were unimpressed.

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Posted by Lesley on 10/05/2009 at 1:33 PM

Wow Lesley, I'm sorry to hear that. Sunday has a different menu than the rest of the week. I love the pizzas. I will say I've had a couple of pasta dishes that were too salty. But overall, I've been very happy.
You may just not like it, but perhaps it was an off night. I hope you'll give 'em one more chance....

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Posted by Jack on 10/05/2009 at 2:08 PM

hello...
what, no dessert jack??
:)

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Posted by rebekah on 10/05/2009 at 2:16 PM

The pizza has potential, but the crust in the middle was way too thin to hold up to the watery tomato sauce on the margherita. And that pizza could've used a few leaves of basil. A dining companion got the anchovy pizza and could hardly get through it. And yeah, the pasta was oversalted. And all that "house-made" stuff? Would've been nice to have house-made pasta. Or, at least some good, fresh pasta from Lazzaroli's.
But the worst part was the service. It was comically bad.
I do wonder who does their desserts because all of those were fabulous. The chocolate terrina was terrific. And the gelatos, too.

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Posted by Lesley on 10/05/2009 at 2:32 PM

Well Lesley, Rebekah Turshen, who commented above, does the desserts. And they are fabulous! My bad, Rebekah...we had that chocolate-pecan torte thing, and it was out-of-this-world fabulous!
Lesley, I'm pretty sure they get their pasta from Lazzaroli's. Could be wrong, but last I knew, they did.
It really sounds like you hit 'em on a bad night. I've always had great service, too.

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Posted by Jack on 10/05/2009 at 4:10 PM

Oh! I think I talked to Rebekah at the farmer's market when the Slow Food group was there. Those Linzer cookies were fabulous. I love her stuff. Good call on their part to have her do the desserts. And the bartender is talented as well.
Jack--I was assuming it was not Lazzaroli because I got the conchiglie. That dish would have been soooo much better without the potatoes and just served over a really good egg fettucine with some good olive oil. And without so much salt (though I thought at the time that the cheese was just really strong).
We had a party of seven and I guess this guy just knew he'd get his 20% anyway, so why bother to be polite and attentive. I swear we didn't look like we'd be assholes.
I think City House is a bit like Tayst--it's just not going to be a place for me since I don't eat animals. Ha! Though I do think the pizza has potential. I love a thin crust, but not a soggy one, though.

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Posted by Lesley on 10/05/2009 at 4:58 PM

I have heard the service complaints before (but never really had any myself), but I honestly don't care - the food makes me so happy you could arrive at the table cradling it in a dirty baseball mitt and I'd thank you very much.
The only odd note I ever experienced there was on a Sunday when it was "Wisconsin night." It was odd largely because I think Wisconsin food is odd and I should have remembered that going in.
And yeah, Lazzaroli pasta, I'm pretty sure.

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Posted by Barbara Please on 10/05/2009 at 5:02 PM

What the heck is odd about beer and cheese? (I ask while sporting my cheese head as the Packers/Vikings game is about to begin)

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Posted by Susan on 10/05/2009 at 7:11 PM

City House! Cured meats! Vols! Cheese Curds! I'll take it.

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Posted by morecoffeeplease on 10/05/2009 at 10:06 PM

Lesley, I agree with you on the saltiness and the service issues. I've been about half a dozen times since they opened and have never been as impressed as everyone else. I think simple Italian food with high quality ingredients should be a no brainer and I want it to be awesome each time I go, but somehow it always disappoints. I have not been since Rebekah took over the desserts (and yes, that was her with us at the Slow Bake Sale in June) but I know she is an awesome pastry chef so I can't wait to go in for a pizza (I'll give it yet another try) and dessert!

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Posted by joycooks on 10/06/2009 at 9:59 AM

Too loud, too bright, too pretentious. Tried twice, a year between visits. Same problems both times. Salty food and ridiculously bad service. Clearly a chef driven restaurant without a thought of anything other than food. Whatever.

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Posted by Anonymous on 10/06/2009 at 11:17 PM
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