This week's dining review lauds the clever mash-ups of flavors and textures at Nuvo Burrito in East Nashville, while levying a complaint about the restaurant's fundamental ingredient: the tortilla.
The ubiquitous swatch of flatbread bread suffocates so many meals--at Nuvo Burrito and beyond--including the fish tacos pictured above from the Grill at Green Hills. In this comely composition, from the restaurant inside Whole Foods, generous hunks of cornbread-coated pollock, tangles of cool slaw, and drizzles of tangy cream and zesty red chili make for a flavorful plate of contrasting temperatures and textures. But the skillful balancing of so many fresh elements is obscured by the tedious snuggies of dry whole wheat tortillas, which taste like they've been cut from shirt cardboard. For that reason, the best way to enjoy this meal is to eat it like a salad, which begs the question: Why not just make it into a salad?