Wednesday, April 8, 2009
News Meat Is Murder in IACP's Best Internet Article of the Year
Posted by Jim Ridley on Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 11:13 AM
Congratulations to Seattle Weekly's Jonathan Kauffman, whose story "What I Saw, and Ate, at the Pig 'Sacrifice'" was named the best Internet food article of the past year last weekend by the International Association of Culinary Professionals.
Kauffman addresses a hot topic in culinary circles now: the ethics of eating meat and the relationship between man and animal--or more bluntly, between the consumer and the soon-to-be-consumed. He attended an underground-restaurant organizer's master class in whole-hog slaughter and butchery, in part to confront and clarify his own stance:
To me, the event had all the ceremony of a ritual. We were all there not to help kill an animal but to witness its death, to test our own resolve, to reify our ethics, to fill a void in our consciousness about one of the most mundane, but unacknowledged, aspects of our lives. "That's why we called it 'Sacrificio' rather than 'Slaughter,'" the chef told me later. "'Slaughter' is something that someone else does. Here we were all culpable. No one could wash their hands."
It's a very good piece, full of immersive, immediate detail (e.g., the moment when Kauffman notices pigs have eyelashes; the texture of pre-rigor pork, which feels raw to the bite even when cooked). A full list of winning food journalism can be found on the IACP's website. After the jump, we have the winners and finalists in the IACP's 2009 awards for the best cookbooks of the year.
Cookbook of the Year:
A16: Food + Wine, by Nate Appleman and Shelley Lindgren
American:
Winner: Arthur Schwartz's Jewish Home Cooking: Yiddish Recipes Revisited, by Arthur Schwartz
Bon Appetit, Y'all: Recipes and Stories from Three Generations, by Virginia Willis
Holy Smoke: The Big Book of North Carolina Barbecue, by John Shelton Reed and Dale Volberg Reed
Baking:
Winner: The Art and Soul of Baking, by Sur La Table and Cindy Mushet
Baked: New Frontiers in Baking, by Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito
The Modern Baker: Time Saving Techniques for Breads, Tarts, Pies, Cakes and Cookies, by Nick Malgieri
Chefs and Restaurants:
Winner: Chanterelle: The Story and Recipes of a Restaurant Classic, by David Waltuck and Andrew Friedman
At the Crillon and at Home: Recipes by Jean-Francois Piege, by Jean Francois Piege, Patrick Mikanowsk, and Grant Symon
On the Line, by Eric Ripert
Compilations:
Winner: The Bon Appétit Cookbook: Fast Easy Fresh, by Barbara Fairchild
Cooking with Les Dames d'Escoffier: At Home with the Women Who Shape the Way We Eat and Drink, edited by Marcella Rosene with Pat Mozersky
The Culinary Institute of America Cookbook: A Collection of Our Favorite Recipes for the Home Chef, by the Culinary Institute of America
First Book (The Julia Child Award):
Winner: A16: Food + Wine, by Nate Appleman and Shelley Lindgren
Yolele! Recipes From the Heart of Senegal, by Pierre Thiam
Puff, by Martha Holmberg
Food Photography and Styling:
Winner: Chanterelle: The Story and Recipes of a Restaurant Classic, by David Waltuck and Andrew Friedman
Karen Martini: Cooking at Home, by Karen Martini
Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide, by Thomas Keller
Food Reference and Technical:
Winner: The Science of Good Food: The Ultimate Reference on How Cooking Works, by David Joachim and Andrew Schloss
Four Star Restaurant Marketing Cookbook, by Linda Drake
Food Wine Budapest, by Carolyn Banfalvi
General:
Winner: The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper, by Lynne Rossetto Kasper and Sally Swift
Do It For Less! Wedding: How to Create Your Dream Wedding Without Breaking the Bank, by Denise Vivaldo (Winner!)
Things Cooks Love: Implements, Ingredients, Recipes, by Sur La Table and Marie Simmons
Health and Special Diet:
Winner: The Food You Crave: Luscious Recipes for a Healthy Life, by Ellie Krieger (Winner!)
The Perfect Recipe for Losing Weight and Eating Great, by Pam Anderson
Techniques of Healthy Cooking (3rd Edition), by The Culinary Institute of America
International:
Winner: Beyond the Great Wall: Recipes and Travels in the Other China, by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid
Olives and Oranges: Recipes and Flavor Secrets from Italy, Spain, Cyprus, and Beyond, by Sara Jenkins and Mindy Fox
Martin Yan's China, by Martin Yan
Literary Food Writing:
Winner: Bottomfeeder: How to Eat Ethically in a World of Vanishing Seafood, by Taras Grescoe
Raising Steaks: The Life and Times of American Beef, by Betty Fussell
Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper: A Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China, by Fuchsia Dunlop
Single Subject:
Winner: Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, by Jennifer Mclagan
Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide, by Thomas Keller
Jacques Torres' A Year in Chocolate: 80 Recipes for Holidays and Special Occasions, by Jacques Torres
Wine, Beer, or Spirits:
Winner: Ciderland, by James Crowden
The Beer Book, edited by Tim Hampson
Artisanal Cocktails: Drinks Inspired by the Seasons from the Bar at Cyrus, by Scott Beattie
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