Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Sonobana, Udon So Good

Posted By on Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 10:10 AM

click to enlarge Kitsune udon at Sonobana in Lion's Head on White Bridge Rd.
  • Kitsune udon at Sonobana in Lion's Head on White Bridge Rd.

Sonobana has a way with things that keeps me going back.

Every kitsune udon I've ever ordered has tasted exactly the same, except the one at Sonobana. Kitsune udon doesn't seem to inspire much variation -- probably because it's always made with the same prepackaged ingredients. I like it, but it seems as if it were added to menus as an afterthought, in case there are vegetarian noodle eaters.

Sonobana's kitsune udon is completely different. Honestly, I ordered it because I wasn't hungry, and it was the least wasteful thing to order and then not eat. But the broth is so deep and complex in flavor, and the triangles of springy deep-fried tofu yield a honey-citrus marinade with a slightly fermenty flavor, like sake. Thick chewy noodles are top-quality, and the bowl includes two fish cakes, those chewy flying saucers with pink edges, to ensure there's plenty of protein.

If the kitsune udon is always this good, I plan on making it a regular. Anyone else have experience with it?

Sonobana restaurant and market, 40 White Bridge Road, Lion's Head Village, 356-6600.

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