I always hesitate at Vietnamese dishes described with the word "catfish," like the Ca Kho To on the weekend special menu at Miss Saigon.
Vietnamese catfish and our Southern variety are so different that sometimes Vietnamese are sold under their Latin name, pangasius. The two aren't interchangeable at all.
I hesitated again when the server wasn't sure if the catfish special was available that weekend. It's a classic of Vietnamese cooking. Sugar is melted in a hot skillet, then water, black pepper, fish sauce and garlic are added and simmered into a spicy, hot, sweet, salty sauce that coats thin fish steaks. It's the kind of thing you'd think would make its presence known.
And yet, ever the adventurer, I ordered it. And GAH! was it good. Properly cooked, tasted just like it's supposed to. Just remember not to eat the strong-flavored fish fat at the bottom of the steak.
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Does anyone remember the lemongrass catfish at the short-lived Indian place on West End, in that apartment building where nothing ever sticks around--Dynasty, Way Out West, etc.) Maybe it was called Peacock -- where Woodlands is now? It was amazing, dusted with nuts and perfumed with that oddly appealing stringent hint of bathroom cleaner? Man, I miss that fish.