Thursday, January 29, 2009
Bites You Don't Know Pho Until You Know Pho Yen Hoa
Posted by PJ Tobia on Thu, Jan 29, 2009 at 9:17 AM
This cold and dreary weather had me hankering for a big,
tasty bowl of Vietnamese pho. For those who don't know pho (pronounced "fuh",)
it's a clear beef broth, generally served in a big bowl with noodles, thinly sliced
beef, meatballs and onions, with garnishes of fresh basil, cilantro, bean
sprouts and a lime wedge.
I've always thought that Miss Saigon on
closely by Kien Giang, which is located in the same strip mall.
When I cruised out to Miss Saigon with my pal Brantley
Hargrove, I was disappointed to find the place closed for lunch, and then
doubly disappointed to find Kien Giang similarly shuttered. (A sign on the door
of Kien Giang said they were remodeling and wouldn't be open till mid-February.)
I was experiencing that special kind of unhappiness that
comes from a food wish unfulfilled, when, as we pulled onto Charlotte, I
noticed a small restaurant called Pho Yen Hoa, located at
the bottom of the little hill that Miss Saigon and Kien Giang sit atop.
Brantley and I decided to give the place a shot and I'm very
glad we did. I think I've found my new favorite Vietnamese in
The meat in my Pho was sliced thin and piled high. The last
few slices of steak were actually above the broth-line and they sat red and raw
like a delicious beef-burg. They cooked instantly upon being stirred in the
piping-hot broth, which was redolent with sweet notes of lemonrass.
Brantley ordered a bun dish, another Vietnamese staple
consisting of cold vermicelli noodles, fresh lemongrass and basil, topped with
a combination of meats. His had roast pork, grilled shrimp and sliced
Vietnamese egg rolls. The pork was of good quality, definitely a loin, and had zero
fat. I didn't try his shrimp, but when I asked him how it tasted he said, "Fuck,
these are really good."
I almost forgot that we started the meal off with a pair of
rice paper rolls filled with vermicelli noodles, sliced pork and shrimp. These
things were stuffed to bursting, definitely bigger than at the other two
restaurants, which I still think make great food all around.
The Pho Yen Hoa menu wasn't nearly as extensive as those at Miss Saigon and Kien Giang, but it had a few things that I'd like to go back and
try, like this fish stew for two served in a hibachi-like contraption. It
looked both fun and delicious.
If you've been to these three restaurants, I'd love to hear
your thoughts on the comparison.
Comments (9)
Showing 1-9 of 9
Miss Saigon’s spicy weekend soup special is spectacular. I’ve heard mixed reviews about the Pho. I personally prefer the broth of the Pho at International Market with Vinh Long on Murfreesboro Rd coming in at a close second. Vinh Long serves the Pho very much in a traditional fashion, with a plate of the sides and an excellent cut of beef.
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You been scooped:
http://nashvillerestaurants.blogspot.com/2009/01/pho-yen-hoa.html
La Famiglia Fluffernutter ate at Pho Yen Hoa on New Years' Day 08 and then last October or Nov. I ate there with the commenter Always Hungry. Visit No. 1 was stupendous, and the pho was as good as I've had in Washington D.C. Visit 2 a little less spectacular, but still plenty good and definitely ample. Hey Always -- what did you have?
Ok, I'm going to stick my neck out and be the rebel here. Pho Yen Hoa is probably third on my list of favorite Vietnamese restaurants. I definitely prefer Kien Giang and Miss Saigon, but it seems like Pho Yen Hoa is open more often. While the food is good, it is not very veggie friendly. The couple times I've been there, I had trouble ordering and usually had at least one thing come out not quite what I wanted. Also, is it just me or is it the coldest restaurant in town? I usually wear my coat through most of the meal. The ambiance is lacking compared to the other two.
I am not saying I don't like Pho Yen Hoa, I just prefer the other two. But it has better hours and as long as I don't expect to have veggies and tofu, great atmosphere (other than the giant TV on some news/court channel), or very attentive service, it's ok. Generally I only go there when the other two are closed, which has been a lot lately. That being said, the Pho still cures whatever ails me at the moment! Best cure-all food ever!
I used to like Pho Yen Hoa a lot, but the last time I went, several little roaches crawled across the table. Not the big water bugs but those nasty little ones.
Fred Grgich recently redesigned Miss Saigon and it looks great. Makes for more of a dinner ambiance; date night, dinner with friends, part of a weekend night out.
Kien Giang wins in the Pho and Po'boy category and I hear they are raising the stakes on ambiance as well (hence the temporary shutdown).
Not a fan of bugs. Like the one that scared me away from that Thai place off Nolensville Road.
