This past weekend I had the privilege of introducing Dale and John Reed, authors of Holy Smoke: The Big Book of North Carolina Barbecue, when they spoke at the Southern Festival of Books. Surely no two people know more about the delicious, vinegar-tinged minutiae of North Carolina barbecue, and on Saturday afternoon they captivated an audience of porcivorous Tar Heels, covering everything from the first time a caveman singed meat to the ultimate schism between Eastern and Piedmont styles of ’cue. While the event, held in the august Senate chamber of the Tennessee state capitol, may have been slightly geographically incongruous, everyone left edified and hungry.
In their research for the book, the Reeds visited more than 100 barbecue joints across North Carolina, so I asked if they had come across a chain restaurant they could endorse, on the off chance there might be a worthy franchise in the Volunteer State. While the authors declined to “endorse” any chain as a faithful steward of the wood-smoked-and-vinegar-dipped North Carolina style, they did give a tip of the hat to my beloved Jim ’N Nick’s. (If I remember correctly, I think John used the word “serious” to describe the Birmingham-based chain’s efforts to slow-cook meat over a fire of hardwood.) Of course, the Reeds underscored that Jim ’N Nick’s, with its thick tomato-based sauces, is not Carolina ’cue. For that, you’ll have to head East, and if you do, take along a copy of Holy Smoke.
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Nothing replaces a true Carolina picked pig, but I'd like to write an ode to Jim N Nick's, in blank verse. O Jim and Nick's/ how mommy loves thee/, for none complains about the food/ and mommy gets a glass of wine
I'm just not sold on the Carolina hog. Maybe if I had it in Carolina. But I don't much care for the chopped texture (too mushy) or the vinegary tang. I much prefer the pulled Tennessee version, with its wondrous caramelly crust and its big hunks of flavorful meat.
I have developed a real yen for the mustard-based Carolina sauce, though. And props to Jim N' Nick's for serving real barbecue. I can't tell you how much it irritates me that Whitt's always wins best barbecue in the Best of Nashville. I'm going to start campaigning now for Martin's and Dee's Q.
A response in free verse:
Wine is fine / but cheese muffins are quicker
Those cheese muffins are absolutley great, if you like the texture of tough yet spongy flavorless orange colored baked goods.
heaven on earth: queso with smoked tomatoes in a 'cue joint.
Grew up in Eastern NC. This is absolutely a staple food for us! A good pig pickin' is hard to beat.
I was delighted to run into a Down East (that's what we call it) style BBQ booth at the Franklin Food & Spirits festival this summer. I left with all the meat I could carry!
Yeah, Burrito, that was Ed Mitchell, who is a living legend of NC BBQ. I didn't catch his booth on Saturday, but he cooked a whole hog at the fundraiser dinner the Friday night before, and it was outstanding.
One thing that I really love about Eastern NC barbecue is that they serve hush puppies with it instead of cornbread. I love hush puppies!