Every autumn, we buy a Bigham's country ham on our way back from visiting family in Huntsville. I take it to Todd's Butcher Shop at 6682 Charlotte and have it cut into four steaks and a ham the right size for a small family.
I used to take it to the Compton's on West End (on a tip from John Egerton). If you asked nicely and brought your own sugar mixture, they'd bake and glaze it for you too.
When the Compton's was sold and changed formats, I moved to Todd's. He's a genius with all things carnivorous, and it was a joy to pore over every wonderful thing in the cases. I bought smoked pork chops, handmade hand-smoked andouille, and loads of other boutique meats.
But this year, Todd's shop is dark, and there's a "For Lease" sign on the door. Who's going to cut my ham? More important, where is Todd? Anyone? Anyone?