Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Get Your Frites On

Posted by on Wed, Sep 17, 2008 at 5:05 AM

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Last weekend, the Foxes defaulted to Bricktop’s for family dinner. The offspring of Houston’s is one of our favorite dining indulgences, in large part due to the $5 kids’ meal that comes with an apple-shaped bottle of Martinelli’s apple juice and a scoop of vanilla-bean ice cream with an obscene molten chocolate sauce.

The Fox baby daddy ordered steak frites, and I ordered carpaccio. As always, our dinner at Bricktop’s was excellent, and the staff deserved formal decoration for enduring the chicken-finger fireworks that erupted from our table. But we noticed a couple of idiosyncracies in the food:

1. Carpaccio, which is traditionally raw beef, was seared rare before being sliced paper thin. To my strict-constructionist mind, that’s not carpaccio so much as it's a chicly named dish for people who need to have the rawness of their cow sugar-coated—or at least black pepper-coated.

2. When the server said the steak frites came with a side item, we assumed that was in addition to the frites. It was, after all, steak frites, i.e. steak with French fries. To our chagrin, if you order steak frites with a side of asparagus at Bricktop’s, you get what might be dubbed more appropriately steak asperges.

I admit it—I loved the seared carpaccio served with arugula, horseradish and soft buttered crostini. But the vegetable-for-fries swap was a little cheeky. So if you're dining at Bricktop's and you're looking for the classic bistro combo of ribeye and matchstick French fries, try ordering steak asperges with a side of frites.

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